Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 05-06-2014, 10:27 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
1der's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 2,003
House Battery KISS guidance request

Want to check if I am going to be doing something unsafe, please let me know if this is okay for 2003 E350 EB 15 pax V10, alternator is Super Duty 135 Amp or ?? (is there a way to tell??)

I will be adding two AGM 12V house batteries on the passenger frame and want to use the 2006 Diesel van wiring harness I have.

Wiring is proposed as follows: Connect the diesel harness heavy gauge wire to the starter terminal in order to tap into alternator 12V charging (this is the wire that ran to the starter in the diesel factory set up). This heavy wire will run directly to a Marinco 701 Battery disconnect switch mounted so the switch handle is accessible from inside the van (barn door foot well). This is so I can isolate the House and engine batteries when camping, or have them connected when running so house batteries are being charged as well. From the Marinco switch, heavy wire to house batteries.

For power supply to the inverter, there is a smaller gauge red wire,( which I think has a fusible link (two gray wires) inline) that normally ran from the batteries directly to the diesel fuse box. In my application I would utilize this red wire to run from the house batteries to my inverter which is currently 1000W but will likely be replaced with a 1500 to 2000 watt unit.

The questions are -
1. Can I tap into engine charging at the starter terminal, or is it preferable/safer to tap into the system at the engine battery positive terminal?

2. Is the BEP / Marinco 701 switch the proper choice? Hella ??

3. What size fuse should I locate near the house batteries or is the fusible link in the harness enough protection?

(Want to keep it simple and do not want the solenoid solution)

Appreciate any guidance, need to get this done for the NorCal 4x4 trip ))

Ray
__________________

__________________
Ray
Beastie 3: 2002 7.3 EB Cargo: Agile TTB, CCV Mid Top, Custom Walk Through, Lots of stuff added. BlingMyRig.com
1der is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2014, 12:00 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
1der's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 2,003
Re: House Battery KISS guidance request

Perhaps a drawing will help describe what I am thinking:
Attached Thumbnails
Van House Battery  Wiring.jpg  
__________________

__________________
Ray
Beastie 3: 2002 7.3 EB Cargo: Agile TTB, CCV Mid Top, Custom Walk Through, Lots of stuff added. BlingMyRig.com
1der is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2014, 01:45 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
mikracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: San Luis Obispo, CA
Posts: 2,207
Re: House Battery KISS guidance request

From your schematic, it looks like the switch allows you to get charge but also disconnect to isolate the house system. In the event that you forget to disconnect, it will use all three batteries for the house. Its nice that you can use the house batteries as starter batteries, but I would probably forget to cut the switch when I camp and end up using all three batteries connected which would then leave me with no juice to start the van.
__________________
2005 E350 Chateau - V10 - Agile Offroad 4x4
2012 CTS-V Wagon - For the baby...
mikracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2014, 02:48 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
carringb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Corvallis, OR
Posts: 4,328
Re: House Battery KISS guidance request

I see no problem with your proposed wiring configuration. My only suggestion would be to address Mike's concern. If you use the switch below, it will ensure no dead starting batteries, but would allow you to self-jumpstart if ever needed, yet it doesn't add too much complication.

http://www.bluesea.com/products/7650...ery_Kit_-_120A
__________________
2000 E350 extended wagon dually
V10 w/ Banks Powerpack, Diablo Predator
Buckstop Outback bumper/grill guard
Reunel rear bumper
carringb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2014, 03:18 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
rockbender's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 799
Re: House Battery KISS guidance request

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1der

For power supply to the inverter, there is a smaller gauge red wire,( which I think has a fusible link (two gray wires) inline) that normally ran from the batteries directly to the diesel fuse box. In my application I would utilize this red wire to run from the house batteries to my inverter which is currently 1000W but will likely be replaced with a 1500 to 2000 watt unit.
You're going to likely want a wire in the 2/0 range running from your battery to your inverter. What is the distance of this run going to be? You will then size your fuse or circuit breaker according to the wire size.
__________________
Josh
2009 Express AWD, CCV Top & 50-ish home build. Daily driver/camper/kid hauler
rockbender is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2014, 03:25 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
1der's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 2,003
Re: House Battery KISS guidance request

Thanks guys, Very much appreciate it. Hopefully will be able to post pics of this!

I will have a closer look at the Blue Sea unit.

Rockbender - Battery to inverter run is about about 8 feet. The factory harness is about 8 GA (not written on the wire, so guessing at size.) It is the factory wire that supplies 12V to the Fuse Box. I will look at upgrading the wire size or conversely, relocating the inverter so it is closer to the batteries. The fridge load is 12V direct, the laptops are minimal, issue will be when using the microwave or some power tools. Good call.

Thank you all.
__________________
Ray
Beastie 3: 2002 7.3 EB Cargo: Agile TTB, CCV Mid Top, Custom Walk Through, Lots of stuff added. BlingMyRig.com
1der is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2014, 03:52 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
rockbender's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 799
Re: House Battery KISS guidance request

That 8 ga wire should only be carrying about 40A... which means you'd want to use a 40 amp fuse so that the fuse pops before the wire melts down and catches your van on fire.

Considering a 1000W microwave load will be pulling about 80A, you'll want to run a bigger wire. Look up the installation directions for your 1000W inverter and it should provide some information on sizing the wire to power it.

That being said, you can use that 8 ga wire if you want, but please size your fuse accordingly and know that you'll only be able to run about 400W off your inverter (which will certainly take care of laptop chargers, but most any power tool will be a challenge)
__________________

__________________
Josh
2009 Express AWD, CCV Top & 50-ish home build. Daily driver/camper/kid hauler
rockbender is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Sportsmobile SIP or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:52 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×