Parasitic drain caused by static electricity??

[Ben10281]

Update #2:

OK so I did some reading of Scalf77's sticky in the electrical forum about isolators and separators. I read down at the bottom of his post about the radio switch and how it turns out that the radio, when powered from the house battery, still pulls power from the van battery on fuse F2.22.

So I decided to test things out. What I found was that with the radio switch set to the house battery connection, and my amp clamp around the negative battery lead of the van starting battery, I was showing a draw of .4A. Before reading Scalf's post, I would have expected that to be a draw of 0A.

With that said, I think I may have figured out my parasitic drain. Since I was getting the popping in the speakers when the radio switch was set to the van starting battery, I left the switch in the house battery position. Meaning that my parasitic drain was most likely due to the fact that I had left the radio switch in the house battery position for a month and never started the van. And as I learned from Scalf's post, I was still drawing from the van starting battery. Chalk that up to Operator Error I guess!!

Now, I am still getting the popping sound in the speakers. So I took apart the dash and pulled the radio out.(Which you can do without the special tool, once you take the dash out.) What I noticed was that when disconnecting or connecting the radio wiring harness connector from the radio I get a pronounced popping noise. Should this happen when disconnecting or connecting the harness to the radio? If not, would that point to a problem with the radio or the wiring harness?

Any input is appreciated!

[JWA]

Originally Posted by Ben10281

Now, I am still getting the popping sound in the speakers. So I took apart the dash and pulled the radio out.(Which you can do without the special tool, once you take the dash out.) What I noticed was that when disconnecting or connecting the radio wiring harness connector from the radio I get a pronounced popping noise. Should this happen when disconnecting or connecting the harness to the radio? If not, would that point to a problem with the radio or the wiring harness?

Two questions from me:

1. Is this the typical factory radio, not an aftermarket upgrade?

2. The chassis power through the ignition key is "off" when your noises can be heard?

[Scalf77]

I would measure the power to Radio, especially when the "SMB Radio Switch Is off" and make sure there is no leaking voltage through the relay.


-greg

[Ben10281]

1. Typical factory radio yes.
2. Yes, ignition is off and the key is removed from ignition when hearing the popping sound. The radio switch is set to van starting battery position when hearing the popping sound.

I disconnected the radio last night and left it that way. I think that has eliminated the popping sound, but I didn't stand around all night listening for the sound, so I can't say for sure. I think I am going to sleep in the van tonight with the radio disconnected to confirm that the popping is eliminated when the radio is disconnected from its wiring harness.

[JWA]

Originally Posted by Scalf77

I would measure the power to Radio, especially when the "SMB Radio Switch Is off" and make sure there is no leaking voltage through the relay.

Agreed----personally I'd simply insert a DMM into the fuse slot for the radio located inside the van. Since most DMM's are already internally protected with a 10 amp fuse that circuit is protected during this test. Set the DMM to DC amps. This tests the radio as installed, seeing if its drawing power when its switch and the ignition switch are both off. You'll get some reading, the memory function of the radio drawing some power.

Your test showing a parasitic draw near .5 amps would certainly drain the starting battery over a few days if its not started. I suspect the radio itself having developed internal problems, maybe more apparent since a new battery was installed. Chances are good a new battery is not the cause of the radio's new annoying behavior.

[Ben10281]

Greg, I am not sure that I have a relay. I think my setup is like your first example in your sticky post. There is a red wire that goes directly from the house battery fuse block to the radio switch(I did a continuity test on either end of the red wire), then the YEL/BLK power wire that is part of the radio wiring harness is cut, the connector side is connected to a black wire going back to the radio switch(SPDT), and the van starting battery side of the harness is connected to a blue wire that goes back to the radio switch. Here is a diagram:


I will check fuses 36, 27,22,and 3 for any signs of draw and report back.




Ben

[Scalf77]

Ben,
Yes, I guess I have seen it both ways. As you can see, they run the power for the radio from the radio back to the switch and then from the switch back to radio. I am not sure about your layout but on mine I must of had 30 foot of wire to get to the radio.

If there is no relay, i would disconnect the house power from the switch and see if the issue goes away. Trying, to see if you can track the issue, to being a house power side or a ford power side.

-greg

[Ben10281]

Next update.

So, I had this old Python(1000ESD) alarm system that PO had installed, very poorly, that always scared me because it had an ignition kill relay, and based on the way it was installed I was always worried that it was going to kill the ignition out in the woods somewhere and I wouldn't be able to get around the stupid alarm. Also, based on the poor install, I was concerned that maybe it was causing my popping issue, because it had two alarm wires spliced into the headlight switch wires and every time I turn on the headlights I get a pop out of the speakers as the head unit lights are turned on. Well, I uninstalled the alarm system, which was already on my long list of to do's, and the problem didn't go away.

Greg to your point, I also currently have the radio switch removed and two wires coming from the radio up front connected together so that the radio switch and the house battery are removed from the equation. Popping still exists, but seems to be less frequent.

The other thing I noticed is that my radio seems to make a little chirp sound when it is turned off. Does anyone else's stock radio do this?

Here is an example:

Radio chirp

Pay attention to the end of the video after the lights on the radio go out and you will hear a little chirp. It that normal? The lights come on when I turn the headlights on, and then the radio turns off when the headlights are turned off. Then shortly after turning off there is a quick chirp noise.

[rallypanam]

Seems clear to me a new stereo is the only option.

This guy has a nice set up in his van.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LBTw5978nJk

[Ben10281]

Final Update(unsatisfying resolution):

So I pulled out the stock head unit, and installed a cheapo head unit from Best Buy. I left the aftermarket radio in for a few days and never heard the popping sound. I re-installed the stock head unit, re-installed the radio switch, and took off for a trip to Telluride on March 8th. With the stock head unit in, I have not heard the popping sound since then. I also noticed that the weird chirping noise doesn't happen any more either when the radio lights come on.

Apologies for the weird and very unsatisfying end! In other sad news, I now no longer have an excuse to buy a new head unit!