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Old 10-29-2011, 11:58 PM   #11
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Re: Plugged trailer in = battery flat

Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoHauler
Quote:
Originally Posted by ANZAC
The current drops to 1.1A after the CD changer reloads. I pulled the radio fuse and current went to 0. Drawing 1A when off doesn't sound right... I haven't found anything else tied into that circuit. Next step is pull the stock deck out and unplug it.

Jage can you move this thread into electrics pls?
1A for a CD Changer sounds high to me too.

BTW, topic moved to Electrical/Electronics. Let me know if I didn't do it properly. Looks fine from my computer.


Herb
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Old 10-30-2011, 08:19 AM   #12
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Re: Plugged trailer in = battery flat

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Nope, CB radio is switched to extra battery. Very odd.
I had an SMB installed CB and it never had a switch that would switch it to extra battery (it was always on the extra battery). I am not saying they wouldn't have done it or that a previous owner could have have done it. My only reason in bringing it up is here is a Radio switch that has been installed in most Sportsmobiles, although I think it is or was listed as an option. This switch has been problematic for some owners.

The standard wiring for the stock ford radio has two power sources, one is switched by key and one is always on. They are both 15 amp protected, the always on one is used for the clock and memory (radio presets), the radio will also internally switch this line, so if the radio is this line could use up to the 15 amp rating. The SMB installed radio switch really never took this into account, as it was designed prior to the radio needing more power. So if the Van Radio switch is set to house battery and the radio is still on you could be getting a drain on your van battery..

The radio switch has been seen wired in two ways one using a SPDT switch, or using a SPDT relay instead of the switch, of course a SPST switch is used to energize the relay. SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw) has one common terminal and two other terminals one NC (Normally Closed) and one NO (Normally Open) As long as the relay uses the NC , usually terminal 87a for the van battery power source, and uses the house battery for coil power voltage the relay power should not use anymore power in the off position then the switch.

I am not sure if 1amp is high for CD exchanger, I do know they use more power then one thinks, making sure you don't have your CD/DVD drive loaded on your laptop is one of the battery saving tips. I will see what I can find out

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Old 10-30-2011, 10:25 AM   #13
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Re: Plugged trailer in = battery flat

That's good info, I will check that out.

On the other hand, doesn't explain the 1A. The CD changer in the head unit should use no current after it has done its load of every slot. Maybe something in it stays "awake" for too long?

Unfortunately I don't think I have a set of DIN radio removal tools handy. I will see if the coat hanger trick will work. If I remove the head unit and the current draw is still there, it points to something else being the culprit. If it is the head unit, then a good excuse to pitch it.
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Old 10-30-2011, 10:35 AM   #14
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Re: Plugged trailer in = battery flat

I wish Ford would just fess up to their scavenger loads. Does anyone have an insider connection to give us a listing of each scavenger load item and amperage-hour draw?
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Old 10-30-2011, 10:53 AM   #15
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Re: Plugged trailer in = battery flat

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By any chance, is the SMB Radio Power switch on? Could power feed through that and on to other items?

Otherwise, my wiring diagram says the radio fuse (F2.3) only feeds the radio.

Mike
Nope, CB radio is switched to extra battery. Very odd.
That is the switch I'm referring to. On my van at least, it is for the dash radio. Try setting it to van battery and see what the current draw is. You may have power feeding from the dash radio power (starting batteries) through that switch into the house battery system. Setting the switch to van battery is essentially stock wiring for the radio. Setting it to extra battery allows the radio to run off the house battery.

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Old 10-30-2011, 11:31 AM   #16
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Re: Plugged trailer in = battery flat

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That is the switch I'm referring to. On my van at least, it is for the dash radio. Try setting it to van battery and see what the current draw is. You may have power feeding from the dash radio power (starting batteries) through that switch into the house battery system. Setting the switch to van battery is essentially stock wiring for the radio. Setting it to extra battery allows the radio to run off the house battery.

Mike
Oh, I always assumed it was the CB. Why would you want the dash radio on the extra battery?

Anyway, maybe it is creating a ground loop or something weird. Best to keep those systems apart.

To the note above, when I pulled the radio fuse, the current draw was basically 0, so all of the parasitic draw was coming through that.
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Old 10-30-2011, 12:35 PM   #17
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Re: Plugged trailer in = battery flat

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Oh, I always assumed it was the CB. Why would you want the dash radio on the extra battery?
So you can play the stereo all night and not run down the starting batteries. Although it appears the radios with muliple power inlets (power on, memory hold power, dash light power, extra battery power) may drain the starting batteries anyway. It has been reported before on this site.

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Old 10-30-2011, 04:49 PM   #18
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Re: Plugged trailer in = battery flat

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Originally Posted by joey2cool
I wish Ford would just fess up to their scavenger loads. Does anyone have an insider connection to give us a listing of each scavenger load item and amperage-hour draw?
Some GPS units that hook to some of the new stereos will pull a slight load with the key off as well. So will some external CD players. I just keep a slight charge via solar or will use a trickle charger if I ever decide to cover up the panels
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Old 10-30-2011, 06:29 PM   #19
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Re: Plugged trailer in = battery flat

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Originally Posted by Ford_6L_E350
Quote:
Originally Posted by ANZAC
Oh, I always assumed it was the CB. Why would you want the dash radio on the extra battery?
So you can play the stereo all night and not run down the starting batteries. Although it appears the radios with muliple power inlets (power on, memory hold power, dash light power, extra battery power) may drain the starting batteries anyway. I has been reported before on this site.

Mike
Yes so that was the problem, switch it to van power and current drops to 100mA. I suspect it partially powers up like having key to accessories position. What a stupid idea, it has a big piece of tape over it now.

I put a new battery in anyway, didn't like the look of the Carquest one.

Thanks for the hint!
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Old 10-30-2011, 08:04 PM   #20
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Re: Plugged trailer in = battery flat

It’s just the opposite for me; with my stereo off and the radio off, there is only a slight draw on the starting system as expected. If I run my stereo with the ignition on, the pull is huge off my starting system.

The difference for me is substantial if I don't use the radio switch because I have amps and what not that would kill my starting batteries well before the radio and its components can even dent my house system. I use the radio switch quite often because not only music is involved, but my DVD video system is run through the same setup.
Leaving it on while the van is at rest can be a problem for some but if I turn off the engine and open the door, hearing music indicates the rear radio switch is on and I shut it off. At least how mine is wired. On top of the stereo draw, that switch also powers my Garmin GPS, radar detector, computer and the relay that makes it all operate. Yes it is like having the ignition accessory switch on, so if I use the radio switch, I make sure all the non-used stuff is off.

If I didn't ever use the stereo system at night, I'd install a keyed switch so I wouldn't accidentally turn it on or you can just disconnect it, but the best way to shed some load off the chassis system to the house battery system is how SMB has done it. FWIW mine has a red LED indicator that shows it's on.

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