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Old 10-31-2018, 01:25 PM   #11
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The 2nd battery on the V10, up through 2013 I think, is also a "house" battery. It powers the radio, trailer 12+ circtuit, and the 12+ upfitter circuits scattered throughout the van. It is not used for starting, and it is isolated when the van is off.

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Old 10-31-2018, 01:46 PM   #12
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Thanks for the info. I confirm 12v plugs work when ignition is off. I believe same can be said about trailer.

Sounds like a separator might be provided by the factory, and another one won't be needed.

Also, sounds like that battery shouldn't need to match the one under the hood for cranking power but could be one optimized for slow charge/discharge.
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Old 10-31-2018, 02:28 PM   #13
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Correct, there is an isolation relay below the under-hood battery, you don't need to add another, provided you tap into the battery directly, or use the aux upfitter connections.

Also, check the connector above the battery, next to the windshield washer fluid neck. Thats the aux batter connector. It ships with a jumper however, so if you have one open connectors, and one with a "loop" jumper, the aux battery may have never been connected. Mine came with the shipping jumper still in place. I bought the van with 105,000 miles and it took me another 100,000 to figure out why everything was drawing off the starting battery instead of the aux.

The batteries don't need to match size-wise, but should be the same chemistry (i.e. gel or flooded) so they charge properly. I had an Optima red top for starting, but use a yellow top for the aux battery.
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Old 10-31-2018, 03:25 PM   #14
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I suspect it's the sPod switch. when i disconnect it sound goes away. Seems to draw 12mA when doing nothing if I measured right.
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Old 10-31-2018, 03:47 PM   #15
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sPOD should have a low voltage shut off but that could be faulty. I think you may be headed in the right direction. Keep it disconnected and see what happens after getting a charge to the battery and then leaving it. I'd be interested to hear what you say. I also have an sPOD setup.
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Old 10-31-2018, 04:29 PM   #16
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I'm in agreement with everything said above but I'll add a two part imho item(s), the batteries seem undersized and under-charged.
Thoughts?
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Old 10-31-2018, 06:41 PM   #17
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I am going to see if I can confirm it's the sPOD.
Anecdotally, I seem to have been able to watch voltage drop earlier 1/100 of a volt every few seconds earlier today.
That does not seem to be the case anymore.

When I left the house 3h+ ago I think voltage was around 12.4x and now it's around 12.2x. The voltage drop is a bit suspicious, but maybe the earlier reading wasn't stabilized yet, especially since it was still bright outside.

I watched the sPOD video (from their FAQ) and the sPOD will disconnect all load at 11.2V. Maybe it disconnects whatever is potentially faulty on it as well, leaving some non-optimal amount of juice left for a startup.

The only thing connected to sPOD is an overhead DVD player, and I verified it's definitely turned off via the sPOD switch and terminals going to it aren't drawing anything.

Will check back in the morning and call sPOD.
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Old 10-31-2018, 06:53 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carringb View Post
Correct, there is an isolation relay below the under-hood battery, you don't need to add another, provided you tap into the battery directly, or use the aux upfitter connections.

Also, check the connector above the battery, next to the windshield washer fluid neck. Thats the aux batter connector. It ships with a jumper however, so if you have one open connectors, and one with a "loop" jumper, the aux battery may have never been connected. Mine came with the shipping jumper still in place.
Thanks for the battery tips

Do you know of a way to measure voltage on 2nd battery w/o sticking stuff into the cigarette lighter or pulling out the main battery (or "house" battery")?

Sticking things into cigarette lighter may work soon, as I ordered a voltage meter just for that.

http://a.co/d/fph5mm3
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Old 10-31-2018, 08:09 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Komrade View Post
Thanks for the battery tips

Do you know of a way to measure voltage on 2nd battery w/o sticking stuff into the cigarette lighter or pulling out the main battery (or "house" battery")?

Sticking things into cigarette lighter may work soon, as I ordered a voltage meter just for that.

http://a.co/d/fph5mm3
Cigarette lighters are oddly enough on the starting battery. Or at least one is.

You could easily measure the aux battery voltage with a DVOM by probing the B+ pin and Ground wires in the 7-way trailer connector (assuming it has the factory trailer tow wiring, and not some aftermarket setup... The Ford factory 7-way has a a pinout molded into the cover).
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Old 11-01-2018, 02:53 AM   #20
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http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...up-1707-4.html

found many other goodies (including a ton of potentially useful part #'s in this thread), among with the gem quoted below

Quote:

Here is the deal on the optional FACTORY Aux battery on a gasoline powered van works, well at least my 2008 V-10. I just added a second aux battery with a tray I bought from e-bay. Here is what I found out.

The option Code is 634 $145 in 2008 you got ONE 78 AMP battery (main) and ONE 75 AMP battery.
The battery IS isolated from the main battery when the key is off.*
The battery size is group 65 for BOTH of my Batteries.
The biggest problem of the batteries are how tall they can be and still fit in the box. 6 1/2 inches tall is it, unless you modify the box.
Aux batteries are available WITH and WITH OUT a trailer package.
Aux battery powers the trailer battery relay (if it has the FACTORY hitch wiring installed) when the key is on or off just like it does if you don't have an AUX battery but if the trailer drains the battery with the AUX battery the van will still start.
The relay for the Aux battery is mounted under the main battery.*
The part number is F8UB-14088-AA
There is a diode in the hot in run circuit, it is mounted in the (as Ford calls it) BJB or battery junction box next to Fuse F5.
This wire on my van is White and Black 14 or 16 gauge and hooks to the small/energizer terminal of the relay.
One of the large terminals on the relay is another Black and White wire. This one is 8 or 10 gauge and hooks to a 60 AMP Fuse F20 in the BJB. This wire is Hot all the time.
The other large terminal has the feed wire to the Aux battery and a Red/Yellow wire that
feeds the trailer relays via BJB Fuse F24 20 AMPS and Fuse F8 40 AMPS.
(note without an Aux battery these two large wires have a jumper in them in at connector C145)

I hope that helps any of you who have wondered how this all works. I spent many hours with the factory Ford wiring book and a volt meter making sure this is how it works before adding my Second Aux battery to my system. The manual makes it look to me like the relay should have four terminals but mine only has three.
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