Replacing a converter/charger with an inverter

[boywonder]

My neighbor reworked the wiring once again to put the inverter after the transfer switch.

With the inverter set to "off" the MW worked fine on generator power......as Scalf77 suggested.

With the inverter set to "auto/remote" we had the same trip and reset behavior as before; we then set the dip switches for switching the input AC to inverter power at 75VAC and the MW ran just fine. We originally had it set for 95VAC, apparently not low enough, so it appears that the inrush current of the MW was pulling the generator output voltage below 95VAC when starting (inductive load due to large transformer in MW).

Thanks for all your help and suggestions Daveb and Scalf77

[daveb]

Glad you got it sorted out. I would still do an amp check on that microwave. I might be wrong but didn't I read that with the inverter switched the way it is that your house battery supplies the extra juice the generator can't supply? I still am trying to figure out why a 3500 watt generator is being pulled down so much by a 1800w MW. The voltage shouldn't drop that much. I'd hate for you to find that running the MW is sucking up house battery reserves...that is unless you don't care. Even with my engine running and a 270A alternator, my little 700w MV does the same. I expect that and deal with it.

dave

[boywonder]

We ran the micro for several minutes to drain the batteries a bit to verify charging with the generator and shore power; they both are working. The microwave running off of the inverter pulls the battery voltage down to around 11.7VDC from ano-load voltage of around 12.8VDC.

[1der]

If possible and not to much trouble, it would help me if a final wiringconfig drawing could be posted. I am thinking of doing something very similar except I would use my EU2000 generator and plug it in to a shore power plug when needed. Thanks!

boywonder -where are you in So Cal?

[daveb]

Originally Posted by 1der

If possible and not to much trouble, it would help me if a final wiringconfig drawing could be posted. I am thinking of doing something very similar except I would use my EU2000 generator and plug it in to a shore power plug when needed. Thanks!

It should be something like this:



The difference is using a manual or automatic transfer switch. Also the DC from the house battery system can be the same buss as the buss going to the separator. You just need to use the correct size wire to feed the inverter and generally the wire going to the DC load could be smaller depending on the amp draw of the vans 12 system. Usually it's a much smaller load than what a 2000w inverter would draw but the wire running from the house battery to the separator (and from the separator to the starting battery) must be large enough to assist start the vehicle if you plan to set it up that way. So terminal blocks need to also be correctly rated for that load.

[Scalf77]

Originally Posted by daveb

Glad you got it sorted out. I would still do an amp check on that microwave. I might be wrong but didn't I read that with the inverter switched the way it is that your house battery supplies the extra juice the generator can't supply? I still am trying to figure out why a 3500 watt generator is being pulled down so much by a 1800w MW. The voltage shouldn't drop that much. I'd hate for you to find that running the MW is sucking up house battery reserves...that is unless you don't care. Even with my engine running and a 270A alternator, my little 700w MV does the same. I expect that and deal with it.

dave

This inverter does not have power sharing, so the dip switch setting just lowered the cut over point for the inverter to think it needs to come on. The dip in voltage was low enough to make it think that AC power was going away, The subsequent short duration of a switch over to inverter and probably back again reset the MW. This function is more of a UPS mode. Lose AC and the inverter takes over, There might be cases where you want the switch over to be very quick so they have multiple settings.

Glad to see it is all working now. I do recommend that the remote switch be left in charge only mode, depending on what you have the load sense pot set to I suspect that The microwave clock circuit might be enough to run off the inverter, also if he had a AC/DC refrigerator that will now chose to run off of the inverter if it is on instead of the battery.

-greg

[boywonder]

Originally Posted by Scalf77

Glad to see it is all working now. I do recommend that the remote switch be left in charge only mode, depending on what you have the load sense pot set to I suspect that The microwave clock circuit might be enough to run off the inverter, also if he had a AC/DC refrigerator that will now chose to run off of the inverter if it is on instead of the battery.

-greg

Yes, we are leaving the remote on charge only mode when the inverter is not in use. Good point on the sense pot; we haven't played with that yet.....not sure we need to.

He does have an AC/Propane Dometic fridge; I advised him to deactive the "auto" button on the fridge when running the inverter, that will force the fridge into propane mode when 120VAC is present.

[boywonder]

Originally Posted by 1der

If possible and not to much trouble, it would help me if a final wiringconfig drawing could be posted. I am thinking of doing something very similar except I would use my EU2000 generator and plug it in to a shore power plug when needed. Thanks!

boywonder -where are you in So Cal?

...you should be able to just plug your shore power into your generator and rock-n-roll.........

I'm in Orange County.

[Ocsmb]

My 2000 W inverter says run AC in through a circuit breaker branch before the inverter. Is it absolutely necessary?

[Ocsmb]

Hi gang. Anything hazardous about this setup? Lol

Specifically, is it ok to run the fuse panel through the 300a fuse to the house battery or should I run a separate cable from the fuse panel to the house battery ?