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Old 10-08-2018, 03:14 PM   #11
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A penny will work in a pinch...
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Old 10-09-2018, 05:42 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadScience View Post
For a quick fix, the stock ones can be shimmed with a sliver of copper sheet. Presumably you could use other materials as well, it's just what I found when I had to make mine work.
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A penny will work in a pinch...
Both good ideas and honestly I don't know how long this has existed as I've only had the E350 a short time. Never an issue with battery not charging or anything running off the factory electrical system affected---just annoying that pricey connector can't be tightened enough to be snug.

Thanks Guys---and any women looking in or contributing too! (<<<That's for Glider, AnnieO, Trekgurl, CTG et al )
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Old 10-10-2018, 02:18 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Scalf77 View Post
And then there is the old standby military style
.....
Cllena Military Style Battery Terminal Top Kit[/URL]
Since were on the subject, what reasonably priced swaging tool are people using to terminate the cables with?
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Old 10-10-2018, 05:53 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Czar308 View Post
Since were on the subject, what reasonably priced swaging tool are people using to terminate the cables with?

Great question----I've been using this one for a while now: https://www.harborfreight.com/hydrau...ool-66150.html

While I'm usually quite the tool snob, too often scoffing at Harbor Freight things, for my anticipated limited need and use of this type tooling this one seems up to the task. Mind you I'm not crimping anything larger than 2 gauge so far--anything larger and I'd find a local large cable specialist to fulfill my needs.

FWIW I'll be making up 2, 4, 8, 10 and some 12 gauge terminal ends with this tool---previously I was using a ratcheting-type tool with changeable die sets for different terminal ends.

HTH
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Old 10-11-2018, 02:08 AM   #15
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While I'm usually quite the tool snob, too often scoffing at Harbor Freight things, for my anticipated limited need and use of this type tooling this one seems up to the task. ends.

HTH
In my 20's I bought Craftsman new, back when they were mostly still forged or assembled in the USA and was the most I could afford. In my 30's, I could not justify new professional mechanics tools since I wasn't in the trade, but bought as much used Snap-on, Proto, small shop equipment my garage could fit and my budget allow. Now in 40's, its all about getting the job done while keeping the most cash in my pocket. Harbor Freight it is.
Thanks for the review, I had completely overlooked HF.
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Old 10-11-2018, 07:11 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Czar308 View Post
Since were on the subject, what reasonably priced swaging tool are people using to terminate the cables with?

I bought a set of cable crimpers (for stranded wire rope cable ferrels) that doubles as an electrical cable end crimper.


It looks like a set of bolt cutters, except the jaws have 4 different size semi-circles, to fit various ferrels/lugs
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Old 10-11-2018, 09:23 AM   #17
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I've used this type for larger cables (1/0 to 4/0). They come in different sizes and are inexpensive and work just fine.

https://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-Hammer-.../dp/B00E1UUVT0

I also use the bolt cutter type occasionally, they are probably a bit easier to use and keep everything aligned prior to the crimp being completed.
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Old 10-11-2018, 12:03 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by arctictraveller View Post
I've used this type for larger cables (1/0 to 4/0). They come in different sizes and are inexpensive and work just fine.

https://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-Hammer-.../dp/B00E1UUVT0

I also use the bolt cutter type occasionally, they are probably a bit easier to use and keep everything aligned prior to the crimp being completed.
I have the same tool. It works great for all my applications (up to 4/0)

Scott
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Old 10-12-2018, 05:44 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Czar308 View Post
In my 20's I bought Craftsman new, back when they were mostly still forged or assembled in the USA and was the most I could afford. In my 30's, I could not justify new professional mechanics tools since I wasn't in the trade, but bought as much used Snap-on, Proto, small shop equipment my garage could fit and my budget allow. Now in 40's, its all about getting the job done while keeping the most cash in my pocket. Harbor Freight it is.
Thanks for the review, I had completely overlooked HF.
Agreed---if you're not the "professional" mechanic type or a tool snob (<<<me ) Harbor Freight stuff gets the job done. I will admit to another purchase this past year--a set of A/C fittings service wrench set. So far I've used them literally once or twice but in each situation they were the only tool type that would work. At $60 + tax OTD I can't complain.

SK Tools and Gear Wrench tools as found and purchased through eBay or Amazon are great quality tools with a lot of useful features. Well worth even us weekend DIY guys taking a look.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TomsBeast View Post
I bought a set of cable crimpers (for stranded wire rope cable ferrels) that doubles as an electrical cable end crimper.


It looks like a set of bolt cutters, except the jaws have 4 different size semi-circles, to fit various ferrels/lugs
Quote:
Originally Posted by arctictraveller View Post
I've used this type for larger cables (1/0 to 4/0). They come in different sizes and are inexpensive and work just fine.

https://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-Hammer-.../dp/B00E1UUVT0

I also use the bolt cutter type occasionally, they are probably a bit easier to use and keep everything aligned prior to the crimp being completed.
I used the bolt cutter type crimping tools for making job-specific aircraft cables used to hang large speaker enclosures overhead. My personal preference would be the hinged type crimping tools though. I've used the hammer-closed versions and thought I produced a better more consistent crimp with the hinged types. Mostly a matter of adapting your techniques to the tool I'm guessing.

So back to the topic at hand, replacing battery terminals............

Received the KnuKonceptz positive replacement terminal---very nice bit but what struck me immediately was how the insulating cover was held captive once installed, no way to remove it if needing a jump or to give one. That would be highly inconvenient for me.

I think for now I'll keep the OEM terminal in place, work on making it a bit tighter on the battery post. I'll share any progress I make in that area.

Also if I could temporarily place the KnuKonceptz piece in place or show it more completely in photos I'd be glad to do so---y'all have been very helpful and that's the least I could do in return.
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Old 10-14-2018, 10:03 PM   #20
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2005 E350 5.4 gas engine,
The positive terminal won't tighten down to the post, the attaching nuts as tight as they can be but it can still be twisted without a huge effort. There should be no movement at all.
I'm looking to replace at least the positive terminal with something robust,
TIA!

Know this is a replacement direction discussion, but I had a similar issue, and just used a good hose clamp around the terminal, gripping the flair on the OE clamp....(along with a cleanup and waterproof grease). Eliminates the potential for a re-crimp that may not be as good as the original.

Has worked for 4 years so far.....The OE clamps are a poor, but very inexpensive to manufacture design....
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