Solar Panel Selection/Fit Help

[sdwindansea]

I have not had any issues with the panel size/placement. It really does not overhang the van on either side. While it is slightly wider than the width at the top of the PH, it is not wider than the actual van body. Since I have a noisy diesel, I definitely cannot hear any wind noise and have not noticed a change in MPG.

[rionapo]

IIRC, SMB told me when we picked our unit up in December that Kyocera was dropping its line and SMB would move to Zamp. The portable unit we added is Zamp.

[JoeH]

Sdwindnsea, I still don't see how what looks like 40" or so of straight aluminum L bar can mount flat when the penthouse roof curves down towards the edges. Maybe it's flat enough where it's mounted to the middle portion of the roof and most of the curve is past that? And presumably the long length of the mounting rail does not allow for adequate air flow underneath to maximize efficiency? The other option would be to use smaller, 4 or 5" pieces and mount those to the panel individually. Each install is a custom job (and understandably so) but your mount and Rionapo's appear very much the same to me.

Maybe a few more pictures would help if you have the time. And I have lots of time since this project will have to wait until I refinish the top but perhaps keeping this thread going will help others who are also deciding on solar options. I found this thread extremely helpful as well: http://sportsmobileforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=5040

[sdwindansea]

I will get a bunch of pictures this weekend that should help clarify everything

[JoeH]

Hey thanks! I did the horrendous 20 min drive to cross town and talk to the guys at AZ Wind and Solar. There's no issues with airflow as long as the panel is an inch off the roof and is at least open to airflow at two ends. I was also curious about having a black roof. I have the dark green color and will probably do a Raptor kit in black similar to that described in Saline's excellent write-up. No issues there either. Any kind of drilling into the frame, however, will void the warranty. Something I think that SMB overlooks in their installation. Something to be aware of but perhaps not really worth worrying about on a $300 panel. Given all the other places to sink dough into one of these rigs. Like an EGR delete.

So really besides mounting, it's deciding whether a 135 w panel is sufficient for the job. An 80 to 90W panel might fit better but is only going to trickle in 5A to the Lifeline house battery (20 Hr rate of 210). Without getting into all the math a smaller panel just doesn't seem to be enough amperage for the effort and expense. Of course, two would be better but I don't have huge energy needs. Lights, fridge, coffee pot, and heater. No microwave.

[Ford_6L_E350]

Originally Posted by JoeH

Without getting into all the math a smaller panel just doesn't seem to be enough amperage for the effort and expense. Of course, two would be better but I don't have huge energy needs. Lights, fridge, coffee pot, and heater. No microwave.

Are the coffee pot and heater electrically heated? Or propane? Heating anything with electricity takes substantial power.

Our van has a 12V Norcold fridge, propane furnace, lights and in cold weather a DVD/TV. 135W has been plenty of solar power for us.

Mike

[JoeH]

Originally Posted by Ford_6L_E350

Are the coffee pot and heater electrically heated? Or propane? Heating anything with electricity takes substantial power.

Our van has a 12V Norcold fridge, propane furnace, lights and in cold weather a DVD/TV. 135W has been plenty of solar power for us.

Mike

Mike, that's good to know. I have pretty much the same needs. I presume the propane heater needs some amps to ignite and then for the blower. It seems to be sensitive to battery condition and at times may not operate at all.

I'm pretty sure the flip down screen and stereo system run off the starter batteries. So, I'm careful there. The amp and sub can eat up the juice in a hurry.

[sdwindansea]

Depending on how your van is wired, the amp/sub may be running off your house batteries, especially when the van is not running. Do you have a radio switch that you have to flip to listen to it when the van is not running?

Here are the pictures. I have a feeling SMB made new holes to mount the panel, but like you said I'm not really worried about a voided warranty. As you can see it is open on either side and there is about an inch of clearance between the panel and the roof. I took a closer look and the panel does not overhang either side of the PH, it is basically aligned on the top edges. Hope this helps and good luck.

[JoeH]

Sdwindansea, thanks for taking the time to snap some pics! Nice and tidy. I'm convinced this is the way to go if you want to keep a rack or rocket box on the back half of the van. The new Kyocera 140 panel that is replacing the 135 puts out close to 8 amps and is still the same length. It also has a reinforcing bar in the middle. I've lifted my manual top loaded a few times so hopefully perhaps the 25lb of panel won't require adjusting the springs.

As for running the radio/dvd/screen off the house battery I confess I'm a bit confused wrt the power selector switch. It allows the radio to operate when the ignition is off but you have to remember to turn it back to the van battery or it will discharge the starter battery. Seems counterintuitive to me. Why would the starter battery discharge if the switch is left on "Extra" or house battery too long?

edit to add: apparently the relay that SMB uses still draws an amp even when the switch is turned to the house battery.

[MRR918]

Originally Posted by JoeH

edit to add: apparently the relay that SMB uses still draws an amp even when the switch is turned to the house battery.

Do you have any more information on that relay? Can it be replaced for a unit that doesn't draw any power? Or where it is usually located?