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Old 10-27-2017, 01:19 PM   #11
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Otter: I have a Xantrex Truecharge2 40Amp. It's not an inverter, more of a dedicated charger that can also provide a little 12 volt power. I have a separate 1000 Watt inverter that is not hooked into my system yet, not sure I really need it, but it was on sale for like 70% off so I jumped on it.

I put a 20 AMP Shore power Plug in my wheel well. It works fine and I did not have to drill through the side of the van. This goes directly into a GFCI outlet and then from the load side on the GFCI to the Truecharge 20 Volt input. The Truecharge 12 Volt output then goes through a small switched breaker and then into my main 12 Volt Bus that ties into my battery. Yeah, it get's complicated. I will dig up my schematic and post it for you.



Here you go, this is my main electrical fun panel minus the fused distribution. This should clarify nothing and make it harder to figure out.

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Old 10-27-2017, 07:52 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by bemerritt View Post
to answer your last question, yes, it is big enough. Every sportsmobile you see on the road employs this technique.

You can also get a bigger alternator or add a second if you have an extremely large load. But most dont.
Thanks, great to hear!
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Old 10-27-2017, 08:05 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Flux View Post
Otter: I have a Xantrex Truecharge2 40Amp. It's not an inverter, more of a dedicated charger that can also provide a little 12 volt power. I have a separate 1000 Watt inverter that is not hooked into my system
Yeah, I know how great these are to have from my boat situation. Cool you got such a great deal!

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I put a 20 AMP Shore power Plug in my wheel well. It works fine and I did not have to drill through the side of the van.
This is the coolest thing. I saw it when you first posted it. Maybe I’d be bold enough to make that cut in the skin where no one would see it.


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This should clarify nothing and make it harder to figure out.
Oh crap. Yeah, this is where I start to lose the thread, so to speak.
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Old 10-27-2017, 11:07 PM   #14
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A good thing to do is look at some of the diagrams that are on the Blue Sea site for the 7622 ACR. That will give you the basics of how to wire up the big cables. My mess looks a lot more complicated than it really is. I just planned it poorly and then just had to go with it once I started wiring things in.

And yeah, I couldn't really think of one good reason to go through the side of the van with my show power receptacle. The wheel well works fine and I could patch it up with little worry if it was a bad spot. Seems to just fine.
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Old 10-28-2017, 12:10 PM   #15
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A good thing to do is look at some of the diagrams that are on the Blue Sea site for the 7622 ACR. That will give you the basics of how to wire up the big cables. My mess looks a lot more complicated than it really is. I just planned it poorly and then just had to go with it once I started wiring things in.
Ha! Points for going with the flow! I’ll check out the Blue Sea diagrams, thanks, Tim.
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Old 10-28-2017, 12:12 PM   #16
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@Skyjumper: Apologies for hijacking your thread. I hope some of this was useful for you too.
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Old 10-28-2017, 10:21 PM   #17
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Where did you get that ridiculous idea of putting the outlet in the wheel well? LOL
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Old 10-28-2017, 10:45 PM   #18
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Is there anyone that has ideas, suggestions or actual experience running a lead off the alternator to charge a second battery set up with solar spliced in? Things like where do you store the aux batts and how involved is it for someone not afraid to do their own work but not familiar with electrical systems. I am building out an '06 Quigley E350, but don't want to over extend my abilities if I don't have too. Just put the Aluminess ladder on today and next up is the Ujoint Offroad full length roof rack. Thanks in advance for any assistance. I want to add that I know I have to put in some sort of isolator between the alternator and batteries.
Suggest taking a look at Ctek D250S Dual with optional Smart Pass -which increases current throughput. The unit accepts energy from the solar panel(s) AND the alternator to supply multi-stage charging your AGM (recommended) house bank. Kisea also makes a similar device.

These types of chargers will take somewhat better care of your house bank than your typical ACR because they manage the charge voltage profile your house banks needs independently of the input voltages.

All the best,
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Old 10-29-2017, 06:12 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by hein View Post
Suggest taking a look at Ctek D250S Dual with optional Smart Pass -which increases current throughput. The unit accepts energy from the solar panel(s) AND the alternator to supply multi-stage charging your AGM (recommended) house bank. Kisea also makes a similar device.

These types of chargers will take somewhat better care of your house bank than your typical ACR because they manage the charge voltage profile your house banks needs independently of the input voltages.

All the best,
Hein
I agree with Hein on this. If starting from scratch I would look into one of these solution, especially if solar is going to be in your build. I know that Ctek is highly rated in battery charging, I was a little disappointed that they did not have programmable outputs. The Ctek also offers a the D250S Dual -SmartPass combination with their time to go battery monitor. Unfortunately I have not found any details on it.

KISAE also has the DMT1230 Abso charger, it does have programmable outputs, accepts 500 watts of solar panels.



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Old 10-29-2017, 07:57 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hein View Post
Suggest taking a look at Ctek D250S Dual with optional Smart Pass -which increases current throughput. The unit accepts energy from the solar panel(s) AND the alternator to supply multi-stage charging your AGM (recommended) house bank. Kisea also makes a similar device.

These types of chargers will take somewhat better care of your house bank than your typical ACR because they manage the charge voltage profile your house banks needs independently of the input voltages.

All the best,
Hein
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scalf77 View Post
I agree with Hein on this. If starting from scratch I would look into one of these solution, especially if solar is going to be in your build. I know that Ctek is highly rated in battery charging, I was a little disappointed that they did not have programmable outputs. The Ctek also offers a the D250S Dual -SmartPass combination with their time to go battery monitor. Unfortunately I have not found any details on it.

KISAE also has the DMT1230 Abso charger, it does have programmable outputs, accepts 500 watts of solar panels.



-greg

Agreed on both accounts. I used a blue sea 7622 on my Tacoma with two aux batteries under the rear seat, that powered my four wheel camper. It worked great. However it won't fully top off the batteries well charging that way. I had a separate solar charge controller in the camper to top off the batteries (and the factory converter/charger on the camper).

For my new van, I have a the Ctek D250S and smartpass (not yet installed but hopefully I'll get to it in the next couple of weeks). It combines the multi-stage charger from the factory alternator/battery and the solar controller, all in one unit. Technically two units but they mount as one. One thing I think you will love about it, no switches, external controls or programming. So there is no need or ability to think about it, tweak the programming or anything like that. You should be able to simply install it and let it do it's thing. In my case, I'm also installing a Magnum inverter/charger with a remove control that allows me to dial in the battery charging while on shore power.

If you go with a blue sea 7622, I would definitely consider adding a shore power plug and proper battery charger to get the batteries topped off.


Scalf77, I have the "time to go battery monitor" from Ctek (rebranded). It doesn't look super impressive but I haven't tried it either. Could be handy for someone as a basic monitor. I ended up buying the Magnum battery monitor kit with larger shunt as the smaller monitor/shunt wouldn't be compatible with the inverter load.
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