Starter Battery Failure

[Ed in Montana]

T minus 72 hours and still counting to the Saturday morning launch for Moab and points south.

Day Three of SMB still being in the Ford shop.

Okay, I think I understand this stuff, after reading many old topics including this excellent series of posts on starter batteries from early this summer:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2968&hilit=starter+batteries

I probably fried the starter batteries when the SMB was plugged into shore power for three days a couple of weeks ago to top off the house battery. The Surepower Separator tops off the house battery first and then switches to top off the two starter batteries next. But they can’t reach full charge so power continues to go to them until they melt (if they are old wet cell batteries).

According to the Ford folks, code readers such as the Scangauge won’t throw a code if you are having a battery problem, but will throw a code if the alternator is failing. You think something would appear like BATTERY HAS MELTED INTO A DISGUSTING MESS, but no. There may have been a slight drop in battery voltage prior to failure, but I didn’t notice. I hate when there’s no sign of trouble with something until it entirely fails!

Yesterday, Ford tried to install two new Yellow Top Optima batteries, but the van’s wires weren’t long enough to reach the posts on the new batteries. I’m waiting for Northwest Battery to supply new cables so that the installation can be completed today.

Thanks for all the info guys, and it’s going to be frenzy to get off on time by Saturday morning.

[Scalf77]

On the Surepower 1315, if one wanted to add a disable switch you could put a switch between the ground connection, opening the switch would disable the separator. Probably a better solution would to go to the 1314, and use a switch on the start assist circuit to engage the separator only when you want to when plugged in.

Not having solar, I can't really say, but I would think the same could happen if your house batteries are getting charged by solar. The house goes above 13.2 the separator closes and charges both house and starting batteries?

[Ford_6L_E350]

Probably the big difference with solar power and shore power is the limited current with solar power. My 125W panel has seen a peak of just over 8 amps. More typical is 5-6 amps, tapering down as the sun goes away from overhead. When spread over 4 batteries (two house and two starting) that is just over 1 amp/battery. Or, a trickle charge. Even assuming the house batteries are fully charged, the 2-3 amps going into each of the starting batteries isn't going to be a big problem.

By comparison, shore power can generate continuous current, 20+ amps.

Mike

[Ed in Montana]

Two new Optima Yellow top starter batteries installed with an extended wire setup (which I need to crawl under and take a look at). Total cost: $900, with $550 for the batteries and $350 for labor.

I could have saved about $150 by ordering the Optimas online, but I couldn't wait two weeks for delivery with the Saturday launch date for vacation coming up.

A EMrider says on one of the battery threads, if you have the slightest problem with the starting batteries, check them out and replace them and don't wait for them to totally fail.

[billwilson]

Have a great trip
remember to post pics !

[PatO]

A lot of info discussed on this topic here too, including my failed battery at 1.5 year and my DIY replacement at 5 years, 35K miles http://sportsmobileforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2968