What capacity/size separator do I need?

[STP821]

Man!

I have been researching and studying electrical setups, components, and the like for what seems like forever, and I feel like I'm just beginning to wrap my head around it.

I've just now prepped my 1997 E-350 5.4L EB for insulation, flooring, and a bed unit that will go in this weekend.

I've purchased a small inverter and a 105ah AGM house battery so far. The final plans for electrical will be to add a second of the same battery, a battery separator , 200W Renogy solar panel system, and a shore power charger.

However, in the immediate future (i.e., a week and a half), we're going to take this thing out on a 7-10 day trip, and I neither have time nor the money right now to get all of that in there. While we're out on the road and camping, we'll be finalizing our design concepts.

What I want right now, though, is to get a separator installed to charge this house battery. We won't be drawing much power. While I went ahead and bought a small 300W inverter, the biggest thing I'll be using the house battery for is my laptop, which I bought a 12v charger for.

I want a bi-directional separator. What I can't figure out is whether I need a 100 amp or 200+ amp. My immediate budget tells me I'd like to go with the Surepower 1315 100amp unit. But if I need a bigger one than that, I'd just pony up for the Blue Sea 7622 (or is it 7620?) based on what I've read. I'd also get the bigger unit if what I describe below means I'd just be upgrading in the very near future.

I thought that I had read that this decision would be dictated by my draw and not my source. The only thing I know about my alternator is that it isn't stock (I can see "remanufactured"; but I haven't yet taken a closer look at it). And the biggest ticket item I plan to ever have is a 12v fridge (there will be no microwave or other large appliances), and that is way down the priority list.

I hope I haven't rambled too much and have provided enough information to get some guidance on my purchase. I feel lazy for asking the question. I promise I've been doing the research. I'm just running out of time!

If someone wants to be super generous: helping me determine wire size, fuse placement, etc. would be much appreciated! I'd also take recommendations on a battery monitor/meter if anyone has any.

Thanks in advance.

[Scalf77]

I would stay away from the Sure Power Unit, if you don't want the larger Blue Sea 7622 the you may want to look at the Blue sea 7610.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/761...12_24V_DC_120A

[Scalf77]

I guess I would follow up with is that the 7622 would be the better choice if you plan on using as a start assist for a dead van battery. More importantly it also comes with a switch that allows you to run in auto-mode, off or forced connected. The 7620 is similar to the 7622 except with out the Manual Lockout switch (not to be confused with the remote switch).

My choice would be to go for the 7622 (mainly for the remote switch).

Bluesea doc on choosing ACR
http://assets.bluesea.com/files/reso.../ChooseACR.pdf

Feel free to PM for wiring help once you choose.


-greg

[rockbender]

Despite the issues, I most recently went with the smaller surepower unit. It has been fine for 2+ years now. I would look closely to make sure that you want the bi-directional 1315 vs a one (uni) direction 1314. The big downside for me with the 1315 is that it sucks over an amp to run the solenoid, so if it connects from the house -> starter because the solar is putting power in, a portion of your power is going to go to just running the solenoid (like 1 out of 8 amps). With the 1314 you still have the ability to hook up a manual override switch that will allow you to connect the batteries at your will.

One reason I went with the SP over the BS (besides price) was the fact that it did not appear I could make the BS unit work in a uni-directional mode. (I could be totally wrong about that)

[boywonder]

I've got the 7610 using solar bi-directional and it's been working great.....no issues.....and no solenoid coil to heat up (Surepower) and similar $$.

[STP821]

What is the difference between the 7610 and 7611?

[Scalf77]

Originally Posted by STP821

What is the difference between the 7610 and 7611?

7611 has a lower open voltage 12.25 versus 12.75 for 7610, the 7610 also has a start isolation feature.

7610 would be the better choice.


-greg

[Scalf77]

Originally Posted by rockbender

One reason I went with the SP over the BS (besides price) was the fact that it did not appear I could make the BS unit work in a uni-directional mode. (I could be totally wrong about that)

I made this mod on the 7622 (although the drawing says 7620). It makes it into a pseudo uni-directional unit. By running the remote switch through a relay, and leaving the remote switch in the off position. The relay is controlled by the run circuit (key is in run position). When the van is running the relay switches to the normally open position which lets the control input float. This is the same as the remote switch being in the auto position. Thus it will only connect when the van is running or alternator is charging. Having a switch on the run circuit allows you switch the feature off if you like.

-greg

[winmag4582001]

This is what I done for internal power. I have added some things to my system. I can shoot another video if you're interested.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M7xJr-NDK5c

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(Del City has fuzes for $6.00 each)

[rockbender]

Originally Posted by Scalf77

I made this mod on the 7622

Excellent work around, Greg! I'll go this route if/when the 1314 decides to die. And when I mean die, I hope that means in nice quiet corroded solenoid contact type manner and not catching fire!