Where to hook portable solar? - Page 3

TexGX · 04-12-2014, 02:52 PM

daveb,

The link did not work. I tried searching the site and could not find how to hook solar to the system.

TexGX

**BroncoHauler** · 04-12-2014, 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TexGX

daveb,

The link did not work. I tried searching the site and could not find how to hook solar to the system.

TexGX

Looks like the ").pdf" got cut off the link. You should be able to manually add that to the address, and should be good to go.

Herb

**daveb** · 04-12-2014, 05:31 PM

Fixed. Don't know what happened there. Are you trying to do the correct install of the link 10 to the battery system? It works off the negative shunt. Mine is wired as shown in the PDF and reads equal to the solar controller. My solar is connected to the separator lug on the house battery system side.

TexGX · 04-12-2014, 07:49 PM

See if I have this right. I can connect my positive to the main house battery, but need to connect the negative to the load side of the shunt. This way the Link 10 will read properly. It says there should only be one connection to the negative side, but it seems like there is more then one. Now I just need to find the shunt. Thanks for all the help. I hope I have this right.

TexGX

**daveb** · 04-12-2014, 09:25 PM

Well it depends what you actually want it to measure. I wouldn't waste the capabilities of the link-10 for only measuring the solar. You could get a much cheaper gauge to do that. Hooking it up like the manual shows will show any amp flow into/out of the house system. I read solar, alternator, and inverter charge. So the only way to see only what the solar is inputting is for there to be no other charge except the solar and no load. For instance if the solar is inputting 2 amps and the refrigerator kicks on which pulls 3 amps the gauge will show -1A. But as stated much also depends on the batteries SOC. At least that's how mine works. Also to get the full use of the link-10 you'll have to set the parameters up correctly. The Peukert factor is the most difficult to dial in and takes a bit of experimenting. Once that is close you can trust the battery fuel bars. I actually don't think much of the bar gauge and use battery voltage 99% of the time. After a while you'll get the feel of how it works. If you run the microwave for a few minutes, you'll see the battery voltage drop way low into the 10 or 11 volt zone and it will take a while for the battery voltage to stabilize to access the batteries charge state.

If you ever get wild readings, check those fuse holders. They are not water proof and prone to corrosion. I added water tight marine fuse holders but my batteries are under the van.

TexGX · 04-12-2014, 11:20 PM

daveb,

The Liink 10 is already installed in my van and is used for all those purposes. I just want to know the best way to hook solar up to my current system.

TexGX

**daveb** · 04-13-2014, 02:59 AM

Mine is grounded to the vans ground block and the positive side goes to the house side of the separator. Has worked fine for me.

Scalf77 · 04-13-2014, 08:02 AM

You would want to put your ground to the normal ground distribution of the van, your dc shunt would be between that and the battery, Here is a good plug:http://www.amazon.com/MinnKota-MKR-1...0SB5EV0X75AWP3.

greg

TexGX · 04-13-2014, 12:02 PM

Ok I think I have it. I looked under the van today and found the shunt and a place to connect to the main positive cable. When I plugged in the panel, the Link 10 showed close to 5 amps then leveled off to 2.1 as the battery is still charged. I played around with turning on light and things just to see what amps thing draw. I was happy that the fridge can be run on just what the panel produces at it will be my main source of usage if dry camping longer then a day or two. I used the connection that came with the panel with a rubber top I had for it too keep it clean. Thanks for all the help. Here are a few pic's:

I also powdercoated the ladder black as well.

TexGX