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Old 03-23-2019, 01:44 PM   #11
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I don't want to derail this thread, but are there similar issues to consider when connecting a winch to the starter battery on a gas engine (no FICM)?

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Old 03-23-2019, 01:52 PM   #12
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I don't want to derail this thread, but are there similar issues to consider when connecting a winch to the starter battery on a gas engine (no FICM)?
Not really. Of course, more power is still better but mostly for winch performance, and you can still damage the starting battery doing extended winching.

But the V10 will still run at 9 volts. It won't restart if you shut if off. But no damage will be done. Similar, the 7.3L was also not sensitive. At some point the CPS signal drops out and it stalls, but nothing you can't fix with jumper cables.
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Old 03-23-2019, 02:24 PM   #13
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Got it, thanks. Definitely new to winching, and the 'close calls' the OP mentioned are the motivation.
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Old 03-23-2019, 08:14 PM   #14
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Carringb thanks for chiming in, I was hoping to hear from you. So I definitely want to avoid cooking the FICM and regarding the safe guards these are all awesome ideas but I’m not going to install a bigger alternator for a winch I hope to never use, also I’ve gone through my wire harness in depth and am convinced I don’t have the high idol wire or SMB used it for another purpose (I’ve posted about this previously), and 3 batteries is enough 😊 so I’m not adding more, lastly I suppose I could install a more robust FICM but would prefer not to if I can avoid it.

For now it seems like the house battery the way to go, but in light of over thinking it and not having regrets down the road does this all sound about right?:

I looked up my ACR @ https://www.bluesea.com/products/762...ay_-_12V_DC_1A and it looks like it has a continuous rating of 500A . It sounds like the winch has a max rating of around 460A so I'm assuming that this means as long as the van is running the isolator should continue to charge all the batteries in parallel from the alternator in the same fashion it charges the starting battery?

I know I’ve had some funky RV things happen when my last house battery crapped out, but can I cause any damage to the RV components by depleting the house battery quickly?? Assuming not because this happens all the time when they go bad

Separately and lastly I was measuring for cable today and in order for me to drop the starter battery it looks like I will need to move the solenoid looking thing in the photo in order for the main battery harness to have enough slack to be lowered. What the heck is this thing? It looks like it was installed by sportsmobile because of the red aftermarket wire coming into it.






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Old 03-23-2019, 09:27 PM   #15
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Yes, I think the Blue Sea will accomplish what you want.

The silver can by the battery is an old-school RV isolator/solenoid. Definitely get that out of the system before you wire in the Blue Sea.

I don't think you need to worry about any house appliances during winching. It's pretty normal for RV batteries to run low frequently. The only item I've had issue with, it on my old trailer, low battery voltage would make the Propane detector alarm. It had the same unit installed in most SMBs. It would be a good time to upgrade that to a combo Propane/CO unit. That's what I have now, and it does not false alarm with low battery voltage.
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Old 03-23-2019, 09:58 PM   #16
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My blue sea isolator was installed and wired by sportsmobile in early 2011 as part of the RB-50 upfit. I wonder why they installed that as well???
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Old 03-24-2019, 08:40 AM   #17
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Weird. Does your Blue Sea have the emergency start option? If not, and you have an emergency start switch on the dash, it could be for that feature.

Otherwise... I have no idea...Maybe somebody else on here has that same solenoid installed.
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Old 03-24-2019, 08:59 AM   #18
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Yes, I have the emergency start option but I thought that was wired directly to the Blue Sea? I was initially thinking it could have something to do with the solar because the red cable (assuming battery cable about 4/0 size) was headed towards the drivers side which is where the solar control panel is located, but It seems more logical that the solar would be tied into the Blue Sea as well?

I wouldn't be surprised if has something to do with the radio because as I have the switch to power the radio up from the house battery and when the van is running the power shifts back to the van battery. Would this make sense?

I read this amazing post from Scalf77 about isolators from 2012 http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...ches-7991.html but it didn't mention having 2 isolators. Hopefully he sees this and can chime in.
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Old 03-24-2019, 09:17 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by carringb View Post

1) Install an aftermarket alternator that provides more power at idle.

2) Install a high-idle switch, and only winch using fast idle.

3) Install more or better batteries. Using house batteries is fine. But using the start batteries are fine too if you have a good separator and wiring that will keep it all in parallel while winching.

4) Do what you propose, and connect to house batteries with a cut-out... Downside is the length of wiring needed to reach most house batts. But the 6.0 starting batteries are remote as well. Either way make sure the wire gauge is sized for the extra distance.

5) Deep cycle batteries are good for starting too, provided they also output the CCA needed for your motor. When you winch, you may be deep cycling the battery, depending on the situation. With a regular starting battery, eventually it won't hold a charge anymore. Bad starting batteries are really the root cause FICM failures on rigs with high electric demands.

6) Install a more robust FICM

7) Test wet cell batteries periodically, using a carbon-pile tester (then recharge them with a charger!), and clean the terminals when you do that.

Any of the above will provide good insurance against FICM damage. Doing more than one is even better!

Also, winching methods will greatly change power demands from the winch. This higher the winch-line load, the higher the power demand. This is a good guide for winch-line forces:
http://asktop.net/wp/download/GTA09-14-002.pdf

The one thing not mentioned in that guide, is drum load forces. The more wraps around the drum, the harder it was to work. The manual that came with your winch describes that well.

Lastly, if you're only winch yourself, and you still have drive power, chances of exceeding the abilities of your charging system is low. But if you get stuck without drive power, or have to recover somebody else, or have to winch while pulling a trailer, or have to do multiple pulls... Your stock system probably won't keep up.
All excellent advice,


I believe I would focus on understanding winching methods first, even if you paid for a good class it would be money well spent.

Start batteries a good hybrid AGM start battery would give you CCA and the deep cycle capabilities.

High idle switch

More robust alternator with higher idle power.

While I understand in theory why we would want the winch on the house side. I do have concerns on what possible downside effects would be. My concern would be when the ACR reconnected and we had max winch current load, while the ACR can handle the surge current, what would be the impact on the running van. What happens if your house battery was already 50% discharged when you ran into the winching situation? If you have the winch connected to the starters, you can still use the house batteries in parallel, and get the benefit of more batteries when applicable. I don't have a 6.0 or a winch, so take my advice accordingly.

If you do choose to connect on the house side, I would first check to see how sportsmobile wired in the ACR, in many cases it appears the have overruled the low voltage disconnect feature of the ACR with their installation. Also I would beef up the wiring that they used. The ACR documentation says that to meet the max current ratings of the ACR, you would need 2x #4/0 gauge wire. That would be impractical and unneeded, but I would use more than the standard #2 they generally use. If sportsmobile did not install the ACR switch than I would also recommend installing that.

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Old 03-24-2019, 09:40 AM   #20
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Separately and lastly I was measuring for cable today and in order for me to drop the starter battery it looks like I will need to move the solenoid looking thing in the photo in order for the main battery harness to have enough slack to be lowered. What the heck is this thing? It looks like it was installed by sportsmobile because of the red aftermarket wire coming into it.

Dpr, Do you have an air compressor? I have what looks like the same looking solenoid mounted in approximately the same place you have yours. Only difference is that I also have a breaker mounted between the battery box and the solenoid (which i dont see in your photo) - both are part of my Extreme Outback air compressor system.
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