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06-14-2017, 11:12 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: San Francisco/Nevada City
Posts: 3,769
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Lucky for him his brother has a welder and plenty of spare time!
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06-14-2017, 11:17 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: San Clemente, CA
Posts: 552
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Ha! He missed his window, that penthouse isn't going to rehabilitate itself!
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06-14-2017, 12:03 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 1,420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bemerritt
Lucky for him he has less than 20 holes and I have a mig welder...
grind, disconnect battery from frame, grind, reconnect battery, paint
Paging Flux to tell us how many holes he had!
I didn't do it this way and in hindsight I wish i did.
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about 180-200.........
DO NOT WELD AND GRIND WITHOUT COVERING ANY NEARBY WINDOWS.
Get a magnetic copper backer. Makes the holes fill up easier and quicker
__________________
<br>
Tim - 2013 EB V10 Agile 4x4 SMB PH Ginger Army All Terrain Mobile HQ
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06-14-2017, 12:10 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: San Clemente, CA
Posts: 428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flux
about 180-200.........
DO NOT WELD AND GRIND WITHOUT COVERING ANY NEARBY WINDOWS.
Get a magnetic copper backer. Makes the holes fill up easier and quicker
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Would nearby windows include the front windows? Don't have any windows in the back
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06-19-2017, 10:26 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: San Clemente, CA
Posts: 428
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Had a full day Saturday to work on the van and got quite a bit done. Started by ripping the floor out and and filling the holes. Bemerritt wasn't available to help me weld them so I went a different route. Used JB weld to stick pennies over the holes. The key here was hammering the holes flat prior ti sticking the pennies over them. It was actually really easy to do except for 1 or 2 holes that were not on flat surfaces that couldn't be hammered. Just globbed on some extra JB weld in those cases.
I then moved up to the roof while the JB weld set which had a little rust lining the whole length of the gutters. Wire brushed all the rust off and then sprayed with white rustoleum. Turned out pretty good!
Then went back to the inside to do the floor. I bought 3 4'x8' sheets of 3/4" maple to put down as the base. I pulled off the old rubber mat all in one piece and then laid it on top of the 3 sheets of plywood to trace out the shape I needed. Had to make a few slight modifications to get it all to fit but it went pretty smooth. I also had to cut out a small piece to put under the plastic step cover to raise it high enough to fit with the new floor height.
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06-19-2017, 10:31 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: San Clemente, CA
Posts: 428
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Currently the floor is "floating" but I am not sure I like it that way and am thinking of screwing it down through the floor of the van. Any thoughts on this? Also I am not sure what material we want to put on top of the wood yet but that might affect whether or not the wood ultimately gets screwed down.
Anyway next step is to do the bed platform. I listed the giant weather guard drawer on craigslist but am having second thoughts now about using it under the bed platform to store all the camping gear. it is 48" x 30" x 11" and could realistically fit everything we need inside of it while still leaving room under the platform for chairs, EZ-up, and table. Ill grab a pic of it at lunch.
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06-19-2017, 10:43 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 1,420
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I put a few 1/4-20 T-Bolts in my panels. Basically drilled the 1/4" hole through the ply and the van floor. then used a Forstner bit to recess the T-bolt flush with the floor top side. Pound that thing in there. The 1/4-20 screws come up from the bottom and use a "sealing Washer" to keep out moisture. You cut them flush with a hacksaw or if you are lucky you have a nominal length.
I ended up bolting a lot of stuff through, but the T-bolts helped with warping and seams. I also put strips underneath the seams in the detents and screwed them together. Seems to have worked well.
__________________
<br>
Tim - 2013 EB V10 Agile 4x4 SMB PH Ginger Army All Terrain Mobile HQ
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06-19-2017, 12:11 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: San Clemente, CA
Posts: 428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flux
I put a few 1/4-20 T-Bolts in my panels. Basically drilled the 1/4" hole through the ply and the van floor. then used a Forstner bit to recess the T-bolt flush with the floor top side. Pound that thing in there. The 1/4-20 screws come up from the bottom and use a "sealing Washer" to keep out moisture. You cut them flush with a hacksaw or if you are lucky you have a nominal length.
I ended up bolting a lot of stuff through, but the T-bolts helped with warping and seams. I also put strips underneath the seams in the detents and screwed them together. Seems to have worked well.
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Thanks for the info... I think I will end up doing something similar to this.
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06-19-2017, 02:47 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: TN
Posts: 10,243
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Good start.
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06-19-2017, 02:53 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: San Clemente, CA
Posts: 428
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Well floor plan might be changing drastically. In talks with a guy selling a 1995 SMB for a very reasonable price that I could take a bunch of stuff out of, most importantly the poptop.
Still waiting for him to send me some interior pictures and close ups of the canvas on the top but the price he is asking makes this a no brainer even if the only thing I get off of it is the top. Hoping the captain chairs are in decent shape as well.
One question I have which some of you might have an answer to would be if it is possible to take the windows off of that van and cut holes and put them on mine? Has anyone tried that? Is it a ridiculous thing to try?
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