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Old 01-09-2018, 08:25 PM   #31
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Have you had a chance to determine how effective the door insulation is in reducing road noise? I've got to do something, but don't know what yet. For now, I use ear plugs.

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Old 01-09-2018, 09:28 PM   #32
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Guys,

Thanks for the ideas. I am planning the 1/8 or 1/4 ply for the walls. I like the idea of doubling up the 1/8 ply in areas that need reinforcement.

It sounds like the best way to insulate is to stuff in the batting in the gaps between the wall panels and use the available holes.



As I look at the lower walls, there are only a few holes to insert the batting. Maybe I can cut open a few spots to gain access for insulation.

Regarding road noise, I haven’t driven enough to know. Using the tap test, the Noico really makes a difference. I will report out when I get a chance. I’m a little worried that any benefit will not make up for the big open metal can in the back. When I get the back insulated, I expect a big difference.




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Old 01-10-2018, 03:46 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by 1der View Post

Just thinking about insulation, hmmmm, 1/8" Luan glued up with a sheet of 1/8" Coroplast might be kind of nice...... Just make sure to run the Coroplast horizontally. Might have to give that a go.
I like this idea especially if no future attachment surfaces on the side walls is anticipated. In my use 3/8" or 1/2" plywood is used up to the mid-point horizontal body "beam". Above that whatever I use as final side wall paneling is run from floor-to-ceiling

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Have you had a chance to determine how effective the door insulation is in reducing road noise? I've got to do something, but don't know what yet. For now, I use ear plugs.
Insulating doors is very effective killing road noise---with or without interior panels of some sort it works well. An added benefit is that hollow ring when the doors are closed is also gone, sounding like a solid attachment rather than a tin can.
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Old 01-14-2018, 01:49 PM   #34
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Re-routing the Wire Harness
I decided to re-locate the rear wiring harness from the stock position, mounted on the outside of the inner wall, to inside the cavity where the wall and roof meet. I have read of others that have done this, and it seems nice to have it out of the way. It will make it easier to mount the walls.



My first step was to cut an access hole at the top of the B-pillar for the harness to enter the chamber. I used a 1" hole saw to cut two holes. I then used the airsaw to cut between the holes. The opening needed to be big enough to pass the plug connectors through.





I filed the burrs on the opening, both inside and outside. I will use edge protector to protect the wiring as it passes through the opening.

After cutting the hole, I took down the harness and ran a rope through the cavity. I used the rope to pull the wires and connectors through. Most of the pull was pretty easy, but there was a constriction near the end of the pull, where the additional length to the wall to convert from a RB to a EB van. And of course the second connector got stuck. There is where my Christmas gift from my wife can into play. She gave me a WIFI borescope. This uses WIFI to sends video to your phone. The camera is about 1/4" in diameter and on a 12 foot cable. I used this to see the stuck part, and used thin pieces of wood to clear the jam. I used the camera a few more times on this job.


After pulling the cable to the end, I pulled it across the top of the rear, above the door. I took of the 3rd brake light and that give a little more access. I was hoping that the harness was long enough, that even though I had re-routed it, there was still plenty of slack at the connector ends. So after re-routing, every connector was fine, except that 3rd brake light. The connector was about 5 inches too short. I could have got it plugged in, but was a stretch and the access was very tight and would not likely be able to access when the interior was finished.

So I pulled the end of the harness out and got ready to splice in 6" of wire to fix the access. I was getting ready to cut off the connector, but decided to pull this wire from the rest of the harness to allow better access. So I cut off the plastic cover and unwound some electrical tape. After opening this section of the harness, I found that these brake light wires were doubled up inside the harness. So I avoided splicing wires as there was about 5 inches of extra wire in the harness. That was great news. I ran the harness back above the doors and down the rear pillars to the tail lights and other connectors.



I reconnected the ground wire from the chamber behind the tail light after grinding of the paint with the Dremel. I also reattached the harness to the metal in several places using the original connectors or with wire ties.

This really cleaned up the interior of the van. I also stuffed some insulation into the cavity I ran the harness through. This will provide a little insulation value and also hold the wire harness from bouncing around. I used this strips of wood to push in the insulation or a rope to pull it.












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Old 01-14-2018, 03:01 PM   #35
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Nice job----love the look and utility of that harness inside the beams like that.

I did mine slightly different in that it was completely window free so used what would become hollow spaces formed by eventual side wall covering. I did have to splice in longer wires but in the end it was worth the effort. I like it!

I did run additional wiring inside those same upper spaces for another door lock switch inside the side barn doors and overhead lighting. I use OEM plugs anywhere I can---every trip to a scrap yard yields a new selection of parts I can use for this when needed/wanted.
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Old 01-14-2018, 07:31 PM   #36
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Nice progress. Just make sure the wiring harness is completely protected from abrasion, Ramsey's van caught fire where the harness passed through a factory looking hole just behind the drivers seat. I don't know if it had been re-routed, but he did mention he had blown a couple fuses just prior to the fire. He may have put in a bigger fuse though because a properly sized fuse should have prevented the fire.
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Old 01-15-2018, 03:04 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by arctictraveller View Post
Nice progress. Just make sure the wiring harness is completely protected from abrasion, Ramsey's van caught fire where the harness passed through a factory looking hole just behind the drivers seat. I don't know if it had been re-routed, but he did mention he had blown a couple fuses just prior to the fire. He may have put in a bigger fuse though because a properly sized fuse should have prevented the fire.
Very wise words, every suggestion to be taken very seriously. Whenever any of my wires pass through any hole or opening pains are taken to assure abrasion isn't an issue.

I'll either protect the metal's edge or encase the wire/bundle inside the cheap plastic split wire loom wrapped with tape so the wire cannot escape. I'm never afraid to go one wire size larger but NEVER exceed the fuse size recommended for my anticipated load.

Just more small steps that can save so much work later on.
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Old 01-18-2018, 10:15 PM   #38
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I hung this behind the front row, it helped a lot...

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ..._Grommets.html

I have more to go...but this helped
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Old 01-19-2018, 11:54 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by Davidl13 View Post
I hung this behind the front row, it helped a lot...

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ..._Grommets.html

I have more to go...but this helped
That's not a bad way to go at all--I've used something similar since the '70's.

Honestly though for an uninsulated cargo/work van almost any sort of partition curtain, even a bed sheet works great to keep heat and cool air in the front part of the cabin. Insulated versions are better of course but just something there is a big help too.
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Old 01-19-2018, 09:28 PM   #40
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That's not a bad way to go at all--I've used something similar since the '70's.

Honestly though for an uninsulated cargo/work van almost any sort of partition curtain, even a bed sheet works great to keep heat and cool air in the front part of the cabin. Insulated versions are better of course but just something there is a big help too.
I have much insulation already ...the blanket helps on top of all the other work...it also makes it much easier to heat or cool both front and rear in high or low temps...

After all the work I have put in already, to quiet this down...

That $50 blanket makes a big difference..

I have other steps to be taken as well...
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