cab insulation? - Page 2

JohnandMandi · 08-11-2014, 07:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by grin

...

I'm curious about your plan for the floor. Are you just going to pull the padding off the vinyl and replace it with EZ Cool, or will you be covering it with something else?

Thank you!

We re-did the vinyl floor this past weekend exactly as you describe. We pulled the matting off of the vinyl, traced it on the EZ-Cool, and cut out three replicas. We adhered them together and then to the vinyl mat with 3M General Trim Adhesive 08088. Directly under the passenger swivel base we had to remove one layer of EZ-Cool to get a solid fit. One thing we did was we didn't adhere the EZ-Cool to the area of the vinyl that extends to cover the upper foot wells. We were worried it would become too rigid and not lay down properly. Everything went in just fine. Took about an hour to "upgrade" the vinyl mat.

-John

JohnandMandi · 08-11-2014, 10:35 AM

Forgot to add... found that our windshield is leaking from the upper driver's side corner. I don't remember where I read it on this forum but parking the van where the front end is lowest channeled the water to the windshield to help us find the leak. I then inspected the rest of the seal and decided it's time to get it fixed. We've upholstered our headliner so it won't go back in until after the leak is resolved.

My guess is to look at the upper corners where the rain gutter terminates.

-John

JWA · 08-12-2014, 07:23 AM

I posted this in another thread, very fitting to this one now:

JWA Says:

Guys and Gals I'm actually in the vehicle glass/windshield biz so can lend some help in this area concerning E-Series..........

Typically an OEM installed or replacement W/S's, when installed correctly don't leak nor do they suddenly develop a leak after a while. The nature of the installation method is behind this.

IF they do seem to begin leaking especially from the top its typically because there are body seams in the upper outside corners of the windshield opening that separate slightly. Often times this begins below the visible exterior; despite the W/S still being leak-free the body itself is the culprit.

I owned a van that leaked badly enough over its life the front floors under the OEM mat and padding rusted through. The actual leak was upper right side (busted body seam), water running down that A-Pillar under the interior trim and below the dashboard along the foot well behind the side trim panels. Where the inside body structure meets the floor pan the water would collect and be absorbed by the OEM mat's padding. This kept water in almost constant contact with the sheet metal. The worst part there were no signs of any leaks without removing interior trim panels.

Most times there are no real quick fixes for these sorts of leaks, replacing the windshield doesn't always solve this problem either. It takes an installer with experience to know what else to check besides just plopping in a new part and collecting his bill. Trust me here---I own vans AND install windshields too!

HTH

eric3187 · 08-26-2014, 06:12 PM

I am going to be applying Lizard Skin Sound Control and Ceramic Insulation to the floor/doghouse this coming weekend, i will report back on how well it insulates the floor.

jpau00 · 09-07-2014, 02:18 PM

I came across this interesting website on radiant barrier and reflective insulation.

http://www.rimainternational.org/index.php/myths/

There are some great points in here. Specifically, having a need for an air space between the roof and barrier or else it becomes a conductor. Reflectix is a reflective insulation, and so the bubbles take care of that, but for other types it might be an issue. There is also some info on ceramic paint.

calebmogul · 12-02-2014, 11:27 AM

Great timing with this thread....thanks. I used ecofoil underneath a bed rugz liner in my van. I did the work a year and a half ago. I think the eco foil is real similiar to reflectix. I just purchased a rear underfloor storage box from northleftcoast((BTW super well built) when I peeled back the ecofoil to cut the hole for my box, sure enough rust had started to form all over the place. Between skiing, surfing, sleeping out of the van it has seen its fair share of moisture. Deserts to snow country. That said it was surprising to see so much rust and though the top of ecofoil was dry it had condensation on bottom!

I'm going to heed JWA's advice and install plywood w/o any insulation on the floor. I haven't inspected the walls and ceiling yet, (which were also ecofoiled, then some fiberglass insulation in places beneath carpeted hardboard panels, but will do so when I get around to the sunroof I'm getting ready to install.

sidetrak06 · 05-12-2015, 01:11 PM

I am about to tackle the floor on my van as well. I am wondering if anyone continues the plywood subfloor into the cab area or do you discontinue behind the front two seats? If you do continue into the cab, do you just go between the seats or do you do the entire floor and mount the seats on top of the plywood? I am thinking for cleaning purposes it would be nice to have continuous floor at the same level.

FarmerFrederico · 05-12-2015, 10:21 PM

For now out back I'm just doing the Bedrug Vanrug. It will be really easy to lift it up and clean underneath it and monitor moisture. I've got a 3/4" plywood floor built for it that I have in storage if I want to go back that route in the future. The vanrug is lighter and softer though, and gives me just that extra headroom too.

Gotta figure out what to do up front though. I haven't pulled up all of OEM mat, especially down low where water might collect to see what's happening yet. If it looks dry, I think I'll leave it for another day, but if it's wet I'll need to come up with something. Mine's a 2010 with stock cloth seats.

sidetrak06 · 05-14-2015, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sidetrak06

I am about to tackle the floor on my van as well. I am wondering if anyone continues the plywood subfloor into the cab area or do you discontinue behind the front two seats? If you do continue into the cab, do you just go between the seats or do you do the entire floor and mount the seats on top of the plywood? I am thinking for cleaning purposes it would be nice to have continuous floor at the same level.

Anyone else want to weigh in here?

Viva · 05-14-2015, 12:39 PM

Both my SMB (E-250) and my current (non-SMB E-350) rig have had the "living area" flooring end just before the cab area (so there is a slight step down to the cab area). So this isn't too helpful for an example of how to do it, but just to say that I would guess it's typical not to (so the floor height stays "stock" for the seats, doghouse, console, pedals, etc.). Not saying it wouldn't work though.