Dirt Meet HellBetty

[Annie O]

Originally Posted by arctictraveller

Just try to make everything accessable, since the one thing hidden behind a wall will the thing you need to test or repair first.

LOL I get that pretty well now since we stripped the OEM wall cladding yesterday to chase some additional water infiltration! At least it's easier to visualize a scheme and layout starting from bare metal. Possibilities are more wide open...
Plus the interior waterfall feature found at our pressure-wash testing session clarified (more) preliminary work to adding electric

Next up: Window seals and door gaskets all around (I hope that covers it, it's a 2011 but gaskets are torn up along top of doors)

Base work: pricing and buying supplies for electric. Darn it everything seems to cut into my dream truck fridge and comfort seat in$tallation!
Maybe 2017 budget will be dedicated to the basic systems.

[Annie O]

HellBetty, not me

I've been removing interior finish items, carpet, padding, wall panels.... Researched how to fix window seals, got price from glass shop to remove/reseal/replace windows... Etc. Since she's only 5 YO I may pay for that to be done in the spirit of efficiency and looks.

It's just driving me about crazy! Seepage up above gas pedal makes tiny puddles in front of pedal floor bolt... Headliner is now a water track above long rear (quarter?) window on both sides... The small second row flip out window (drivers side) was replaced- can't tell if the longs ones were replaced. I am suspecting yes.

Wtc?!? Why would seals fail at 5 years?

Door gaskets weak/torn up on top of doors, doors do not seem to leak tho. I was hoping to keep the headliner intact, avoid ceiling finish work, but it may have to go if I can't get a cause for leakage dialed in.

Anyone have any wisdom on this? (Getting too dark for photos now- will post them tomorrow)

[rallypanam]

That sucks. Not sure why you'd have multiple issues? Van in wreck with multiple broken windows and shotty replacement work? Got me.

But I'd strip everything out, dry out inside, then hose it down and see where the water is coming from.

[arctictraveller]

Bummer. On boats, I've taken a blower like they use to dry carpets after a flood, and sealed them into a window with cardboard, which will pressurize the van when turned on. You could then use soapy water to find the leaks. You might have to seal things like the heater vents or other vents, but you should be able to build enough pressure to cause air to leak out of where ever the water is coming in. I feel your pain though, last month, after being parked on a steep hill overnight in a heavy rain storm, I got in the van and when I got to level ground I heard a sloshing, gurggling noise coming from the folds in my canvas top and suddenly ice water began pooring down my back. It took me a minute to get pulled over, with water soaking me the whole time. Once stopped I was able to deflect it into the sink drain. That was the first and last time it happened, since I park on mostly level ground, but obvously my top is leaking somewhere. Best of luck.

[Annie O]

OMG I hope you don't mind I enjoyed reading that with HUGE smile- sounds like a leak of Biblical Proportions!

JWA has offered to look over HellBetty with me- YAY! He's on the way to my hometown and he knows glass. I was thinking the other day it would help to have another van owner to bounce things off.

My son likes to work on her but keeps mentioning, 'Mom you can't call me forever to come over and do things like tighten the seat bolts or swivel your seat back etc' He's trying to kick ME out of the nest!

[Annie O]

Sorting through the info in forum Electrical section and articles - Goldmine. Opened an amazon account with a typo in my email login at setup, NOT recommended. All good now.

What are favorite sources for buying Blue Sea, switch, batteries, related materials, assuming I want warranties where possible... ?

*I just saw he 'replaing RV Battery thread, with link
http://sepbatteries.com/lifeline-gpl-4da-agm-battery
and that reminds me- what are favorite batteries and their sources?

I'm not going to pretend to understand all the elec system right now- just need to start my parts purchases. TIA!

[jpau00]

I use a Deka battery. They had good reviews and it has served me well, although I don't put much of a load on it. I got it directly from an East Penn outlet (the manufacturer) in Dayton.

[rallypanam]

Warranties are generally from the manufacturer, so retailer doesn't matter (as long as they are reputable). AZ wind and solar (or something like that), is one place that has pretty good prices and decent tech support.

For battery, Lifeline is one of the best, just find your local distributor as shipping can get expensive!

[Flux]

AGM deep cycle preferably American Made which would be anything from East Penn and Lifeline.

As far as Blue Sea stuff, any place you can find the best deal.

Sticking with Marine Grade is a good choice. I bought a bunch of wiring and cable and lugs from these guys and their prices are the best. I think their cables are actually unbranded Ancor Wire:

Marine Wire, Boat Wiring & Marine Electrical - BestBoatWire.com

I also found excellent deals on cable on ebay and sometimes amazon.

I ordered my Lifeline from invertersrus.com and they shipped it free, but they are out West and so am I.

[Annie O]

Hello all and Happy 2018 to everyone!

Apologies I may have missed replying to a post or message and have not been here for 6 months maybe.... shtf with family stuff then.

HellBetty is alive and treating me well, tho she looks about the same. Have a mat floor in... bed is actually in my sons basement Instead of storage and believe it or not that is progress! I THOUGHT I had 3 different carpenters engaged for the wood build portion- by just sandbagged each time. Why do tradesmen seem to hate small jobs?

Please see attached photos. Project is retrofit of teak cabana bed for platform bed with hatch doors to access storage underneath. So i need hold-open hinges for the hatch doors.

The second photo shows underneath of hatch door and edge where hinge would be mounted

Hatch Doors to open from center like a pair of cellar doors.

Hatch Doors: 28”x27.5” ea.
Approx 12 lbs ea (15 lbs max each)
Slats are 2-1/4”x5/8” teak

the full length wood frames will be mounted to side rails (seen on right side of top photo). The rail will be mounted to van sides with leg supports and cross brace underneath.

Photo 1. The cabana beds side by side with 2 slatted hatch doors (28x28”portions at top of first photo). Hart has doors will be hinged to that wood frame and will lay flush with slatted bed surface as seen at top right.

Photo 2. Bottomside detail of hatch door to be fitted with hinges (it is flipped upside down in this photo)

Photo 3. Interior. Side rails to be anchored to sheet metal van walls and stabilized with legs and cross bracing. The two slatted beds fit side by side above wheel wells. Will insulate and cover side walls (not sure of wall covering yet- Need to allow for airflow from rear hvac vents.)

Clear as mud? I have a link to this source but can anyone here suggest a hinge type for the hatch doors?
https://www.sugatsune.com/lid-stays-lid-supports/