Undervan Storage Box continued:
With the installation of the box complete move the rubber floor matting back into place.
Cut out a hole to match the box opening.
Start on the creation of an access hatch for the top of the box. I'll make the frame of the hatch from 1" angle iron. Cut out the two side pieces first then measure for the other two.
Cut out the other pieces and use welding magnets to square everything up. I tack welded the pieces together on the floor since it's flatter than my work table.
Finish the welding on the table. Use an angle grinder to level out my welds.
Cut out a door from 23/32" plywood that fit within the metal frame. To provide support for the door take a 1" wide piece of flat stock and cut it to match the width of the door. Then cut the flat piece down it's length so I end up with two 1/2" wide pieces. Flip the frame over so it's laying on it's top. Place the door in the frame. Since the door's thickness is less than the frame's there is an exposed edge of metal above the door. Slide each 1/2" wide metal strip so it's resting on the wood but up against the frame edge. Tack weld into place.
Remove the wood then weld the two metal strips in place. By doing it this way the door will be flush with the top of the frame when closed.
Add a handle to the door. The handle is spring loaded so it snaps back into place when not being used. Bought if from McMaster-Carr. #12315A51 $5.42
The handle will be recessed into the wood so I'll need to make a cutout. I happened to have recently acquired the perfect tool for this type of operation. It's called a mill.
It was shipped to me via freight in a wooden box. I've never had anything shipped to me in a wooden box before. And for you "A Christmas Story" fans, it didn't read "Fra-gee-lay" on the outside so it's not Italian. There is a loading dock where I work so I had the box shipped there. Otherwise I'd had to pay extra to get it delivered with a lift-gate truck.
Had help getting it into and out of the van.
The mill instructions warn that it's top heavy so you should bolt it down before using. So I made a wheeled stand for it.
Back to the door. Clamp it onto the mill bed than lower the cutting tool and start making chips.
Even with the mill I'll have to do some final work with a hand chisel to get the handle totally flush.
Time for a test fit. I was off by just a hair. Nothing I couldn't fix with a angle grinder.
Next up was hinges. I decided to use the European style or hidden hinge since I didn't want any part of the hinge visible when the door was closed. I've not used them before so I got online and read up on the subject. Went to Lowe's and good thing I'd read up ahead of time since there is no information at the hinge display. Lucky someone had pulled at least one of each kind of hidden hinge out of the little plastic bags so in each bin there was one I could play with. This seemed to be the right type.
Screw the hinge to the door.
Use clamps to hold the frame part of the hinge in place.
Check that it opens and closes OK.
With this style hinge the door swings open 90 degrees. I could have gotten other hinges where the door will open more than that but the part of the hinge that is attached to the frame is bigger and will stick farther down into the undervan box. The farther down it sticks the more likely I'll be banging into it when I'm reaching around inside the box. So this is a trade-off. Now to test if 90 degrees will be enough.
Set the door up and test putting in and taking out some of the things I'll be storing in my basement.
I also checked which side was best. Hinge towards the drivers side is best. The door at 90 degrees will work fine. Collapsing chair fits, just.
Next how to attach the hinge to the frame. Cut out two pieces of 1-1/2" wide flat stock.
Trim the pieces to match the profile of the hinge back plate.
Since I know sooner or later I'll be banging my hands against these supports carefully file them so there are no sharp edges
Weld the supports to the frame.
Drill the holes for the hinge plates.
Secure the hinges to the frame with #8 bolts. Screw the hinges to the door.
Check fit and operation.
I might be looking in the box when it's dark out so add a flashlight. Use one of the binder clips I had previously used on the wooden box mock-up. It works just perfect with one of these LED flashlights from Harbor Freight. You can get these on sale for around $1.50 ($2.99 a pair) and that includes batteries.
Now take the door off and seal and paint the wood.
When it dries put it all back together again and reinstall.
Check with and get the supervisor's approval.
There is still some more work to do on the hatch but that won't come until later in the build. The metal frame needs to be painted and the top of the door will be covered in whatever I cover the rest of the floor in. The hatch frame will also be secured to the van floor in the future. With the hatch in place I can no longer hear the metal tools bouncing around inside the undervan storage box.
This pretty much finishes up the work on the undervan storage box.
Linear Mode
