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Old 07-07-2017, 10:44 AM   #11
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Here's a shot of the panels I did for the inside of my van. The material is automotive grade vinyl and was a Ford OEM match. I applied it over 1/4" ply using 3M 90 spray adhesive. Applied to both vinyl and panel and then rolled it. I did staple it on the back side. I have kids who love to spill things and a dog that loves to roll in the dirt. So an easy to clean surface is mandatory.

Like Boywonder said, a foam layer in between is a good thing too. It can be thin. I have a few lumps under my vinyl from debris. Foam would help that. I think a 1/8" to 1/4" (3-6mm for you guys up north) would be nice, thicker if you want actual padding. But my panels are curved and it's holding up well even under the intense heat that we have here. Gonna be 106 today.
Nice!


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Old 07-07-2017, 10:50 AM   #12
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Nice!


Thanks Otter.

There is a little method to the madness where the big void between the window and the panel. Gonna make some nice insulated blackout panels that can stuff in there. But I do wish that was a little more form fitting. maybe some day I will redo with factory trim around the windows. We shall see.
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Old 07-07-2017, 10:55 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Flux View Post
Here's a shot of the panels I did for the inside of my van. The material is automotive grade vinyl and was a Ford OEM match. I applied it over 1/4" ply using 3M 90 spray adhesive. Applied to both vinyl and panel and then rolled it. I did staple it on the back side. I have kids who love to spill things and a dog that loves to roll in the dirt. So an easy to clean surface is mandatory.

Like Boywonder said, a foam layer in between is a good thing too. It can be thin. I have a few lumps under my vinyl from debris. Foam would help that. I think a 1/8" to 1/4" (3-6mm for you guys up north) would be nice, thicker if you want actual padding. But my panels are curved and it's holding up well even under the intense heat that we have here. Gonna be 106 today.


Nice job! If I understand, if you put a foam behind the lining you cant use glue? you can only use staples, am I right?

Why did you use a carpet in the corner? Also how did you manage to do the contour of the window? (to hide the inner wall)

And last question, what do you use for shading?
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Old 07-07-2017, 11:35 AM   #14
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You can use glue if you do a thin foam, you will just need to do it twice. I used no foam, but did staple the backsides just because.

Theres no carpet there. If you are talking about the gas hump, that has some foam insulation over it. A cover will come later.

Might even think about some strung curtains because I have the room.

I will make my own shades. My idea is to use a layer of reflectix with one side exposed to kick back heat, then some polyester insulation, then some nylon like cordura. In winter the reflectix goes inward, summer it goes outward. I have an industrial sewing machine so I will make sandwiches with edge banding. Some of them will fold in half. Would like them to stuff back behind that panel where I covered the window which will have a cabinet on the inside.
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Old 07-07-2017, 11:40 AM   #15
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Here's the back side of the panel which shows how I cut everything to get the contours right. There's some good videos on youtube on how to do this. You could do it a lot cleaner than I did. and put a backside layer on and staple the perimeter. This is fine for my purposes.

My window cutouts are a bit funny here and there. I may put some automotive C-Channel on the edges to trim them out.

Word of advise, you see all those triangle cuts, start them about 1/4" back from the edge otherwide you will get some places that show through. Live and learn.

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Old 07-07-2017, 12:38 PM   #16
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Nice job! If I understand, if you put a foam behind the lining you cant use glue? you can only use staples, am I right?

Use spray headliner adhesive on the foam.....or any material that absorbs adhesive. The headliner adhesive will not soak in. You can also use spray 77/spray 90 although the headliner stuff is rated for high temps.

....It would be a real drag if stuff started to un-glue in the summer.....so I used headliner adhesive.

For materials that won't absorb adhesive, I used DAP landau top adhesive...applied with a chip brush. It's just high temp rated contact cement.

Regular brush on contact adhesive bonds really really well to the spray headliner adhesive; I've got that combo going on in many areas.

...you can also get some automotive materials (headliner material for example) with foam backing already on it.
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Old 07-10-2017, 08:54 AM   #17
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Ok and how would you guys do this curved panel?
When it's not screwed to the ceiling it sits straight on the table.





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Old 07-10-2017, 04:14 PM   #18
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Ok and how would you guys do this curved panel?
When it's not screwed to the ceiling it sits straight on the table.

Apply foam backed headliner material with spray headliner adhesive, then screw the panel to the sheet metal using cosmetic screws and finishing washers....
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Old 07-10-2017, 04:26 PM   #19
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Apply foam backed headliner material with spray headliner adhesive, then screw the panel to the sheet metal using cosmetic screws and finishing washers....
Installing the panel itself is not the problem, I'm thinking if I glue lining to it (on my flat working table) when I install it into place on the curved ceiling, won't it have some folds in the middle?

I was thinking my only option was trying to replicate the curve of the ceiling on the panel as I glue the lining to it?
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Old 07-10-2017, 04:46 PM   #20
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Installing the panel itself is not the problem, I'm thinking if I glue lining to it (on my flat working table) when I install it into place on the curved ceiling, won't it have some folds in the middle?

I was thinking my only option was trying to replicate the curve of the ceiling on the panel as I glue the lining to it?
I wouldn't stress over that......you could perhaps stretch the material slightly when you glue it....so when you install on the curve it relaxes to it's normal position.

You could certainly curve the panel a bit when gluing too. Foam backed headliner material is fairly forgiving.

The thing that I stress over is the exposed screw heads, but sometimes there is no choice.
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