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Old 05-06-2012, 04:02 PM   #1
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Interior lining

Hello,

Been lurking on the forum for sometime now. Finally, my wife and I are about to embark on having our Quadvan converted. We plan to have a top added by Sportsmobile, then a customer interior by Van Specialities -- a shop that is local to us.

As we are planning a more 'spartan' interior, we want simple, practical wall covering. Would seem that plywood walls could add a lot of weight and take up valuable space. I was thinking of a reflectix or ez-cool, then covering with these formed panels.

Anyone have experience with these? Seems like a perfect way to cover the interior once covered with insulation.

http://www.inlad.com/adriansteelford...partmentId=547

Thanks,
DJM
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Old 05-06-2012, 06:30 PM   #2
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Re: Interior lining

The panels you listed are probably made to go directly on the walls. Might not fit right with a reflectix layer in between.
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Old 05-06-2012, 06:45 PM   #3
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Re: Interior lining

Quote:
Originally Posted by WVvan
The panels you listed are probably made to go directly on the walls. Might not fit right with a reflectix layer in between.
Possibly. I was thinking with reflectix being rather thin there might be a way to mount the panel over something so thin. Will likely need to call the manufacturer for additional info.

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DJM
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Old 05-06-2012, 09:18 PM   #4
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Re: Interior lining

I put the factory Ford Econo Cargo walls in my van its made by American Body Company in Ohio and I have the part numbers but I bought it used, I did however buy some parts from them and they we great to deal with. I have foil backed insulation and Reflexit bubble wrapbehind it. It all fits fine and takes up very little space in the van. I installed e track on the walls and my king sized bed mounts to that. I can go from full glamping mode (glamorous camping as my girlfriend calls it) bed, ARB fridge, and other gear to a cargo van in under 20 minutes.
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Old 05-06-2012, 11:14 PM   #5
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Re: Interior lining

Here is a picture of the interior walls when I was building the bed last year.
The E-track is mounted to the van using 1/4 20 steel nutserts (rivnuts). I used them instead of 3/16 rivets like the factory does so I could remove the track and walls should I want or need to. To mount the bed I decided to use E Track 2 by clips (the gold things) and 2 inch square aluminum tubing. I wanted the bed to be a certain height as we do not have any kind of roof yet. I built it just high enough to get a medium Action Packer under the bed and yet I can almost sit up straight without hitting my head with 3 inches of foam on top. I used the clips and drilled them out a little as they were made to drop a 2 by board into them and then use a sheet rock screw to keep them in place. I then used three pieces of the aluminum tubing as cross braces, just behind the side door post for the front, one in the center of the bed and one at the very back edge of the bed but not alll the way to the back of the van. I wanted to have room for tall things behind the bed should I want them. The bed is Bigger than a Queen but smaller than a King, I think it is about 76 x 72. I sandwiched the plywood between the clips and the bars. So far it is working really well. We have the really big bed we wanted with lots of storage under it and yet it all comes out really easy to be able to use the van as a cargo van when we want to.
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Old 05-07-2012, 09:07 AM   #6
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Re: Interior lining

I'm gonna take out my SMB cabinets et al and go this route. Thanks for the post.
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Old 05-07-2012, 11:36 PM   #7
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Re: Interior lining

I would think you could cram the space behind those with reflectix and or other things. I'd fill all the deeper pockets with dynamat and then reflectix the heck out of it in layers, maybe add some jute or fiberglass insulation depending on what other homebuilders use. Then install the panels and anything that doesn't fit or smash down into place- just trim out and try again.
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Old 05-08-2012, 08:52 AM   #8
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Re: Interior lining

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ultrasport12
Here is a picture of the interior walls when I was building the bed last year.
The E-track is mounted to the van using 1/4 20 steel nutserts (rivnuts). I used them instead of 3/16 rivets like the factory does so I could remove the track and walls should I want or need to. To mount the bed I decided to use E Track 2 by clips (the gold things) and 2 inch square aluminum tubing. I wanted the bed to be a certain height as we do not have any kind of roof yet. I built it just high enough to get a medium Action Packer under the bed and yet I can almost sit up straight without hitting my head with 3 inches of foam on top. I used the clips and drilled them out a little as they were made to drop a 2 by board into them and then use a sheet rock screw to keep them in place. I then used three pieces of the aluminum tubing as cross braces, just behind the side door post for the front, one in the center of the bed and one at the very back edge of the bed but not alll the way to the back of the van. I wanted to have room for tall things behind the bed should I want them. The bed is Bigger than a Queen but smaller than a King, I think it is about 76 x 72. I sandwiched the plywood between the clips and the bars. So far it is working really well. We have the really big bed we wanted with lots of storage under it and yet it all comes out really easy to be able to use the van as a cargo van when we want to.

Thank you for the info! This is exactly what I am looking to do, including the use of rivnuts so I can add/remove things easily.

How well does the insulation work? Have you camped in the cold yet?

Thanks,
DJM
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Old 05-08-2012, 05:52 PM   #9
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Re: Interior lining

So far I am very happy with the insulation and sound proofing and feel it was time and money well spent. We camped 50 plus nights last year after doing it and even when we were in Portland at the end of November it was much warmer (low 40s outside) than it was before. We have yet to have it cold enough for sleeping bags. It also is really good in the sun and warm weather for keeping it cooler. When I was working on the insulation in my driveway I used my temp gun on the ceiling. On the bare metal it was 104 and on just the insulated part (no bubble wrap or headliner installed) in the same area of the roof it was only 82...22 Degree drop, not bad. While I did the sound proofing to make the van quieter on the road it is also good for making it quieter for sleeping, who knew.

This is how I did it in step by step order:

First I installed Dynamat on some of the larger panels like the window cut outs and then used strips of it so that I have maybe 40-50% coverage in the back of the van. That's still a bunch of Dynamat but it was well worth it I feel. Since Dynamat is not an really an insulation just a sound deadener you do not need full coverage, all you need is enough to absorb the sound if you want to make the van quieter. Dynamat is not needed for insulation and there are cheaper versions I just happen to like Dynamat to work with.

After that I used automotive type foil backed insulation. I didn't want to use Fiberglass and the automotive type is only about 1/4 inch thick. I used spray glue to stick it to every place I could reach, inside the fender wells and then covered all of the ceiling, walls, inside the doors and the step wells, a lot of heat loss and noise is from them so don't forget to do them. DO NOT insulate under the E-track you want it to fit tight to the metal on the van. Since I grew up in rust country I also left a small gap at the bottom of all the panels for moisture to drain out and was careful not to cover any drain holes.

The next step was the Reflectix I bought at Lowes. I used 48 and 16 rolls for different places.
http://www.lowes.com/pl_Foil+Insulation ... 294937087_
I glued it to the back sides of the ceiling and plastic wall panels and on top of the insulation in the doors and step wells. This stuff only really works with a bit of an air gap so try not to squish it down too much. I used DC Sure Tape to tape any joints and to hold it up any place I did not want to use spray glue. I also used it to cover any holes that I didn't want like in the back corners by the taillights where air and or dirt could come in.

I am not completely done with the floor yet, I want to use some more sound deadened at least in the valleys.I don't really need to do anything more but I would like too, maybe someday. What I did is working out really well so far. I bought a BedRug brand full floor foam backed carpet mat. http://www.bedrug.com/products/cargovanproducts.php
In the back under the bed this is all I have. My Rubbermaid Action Packers I use for all my camping stuff hardly slide around on it. I installed a vertical 2 x 12 board near the front edge of my bed as a divider to keep the stuff under the bed when braking hard or whatever. In the living area I put carpeted plywood (also easy to remove) over the BedRug. This makes in nice and flat on the floor to move around inside the van.

There is a few things I can tell you about the E-Track and Rivnut project.
1 Made sure the the tracks are square at the back of the van. This makes building the bed which already tapers quite a bit from front to rear easier to fit.
2 Make sure the tracks are level with each other. It took me some time with the bare metal walls to figure out where to put the tracks both front to back and level. For me it was just under the little green plastic screw plugs that I guess are for window van trim or something. I used aluminum track, a full 10 foot piece on the drivers side (does not go all the way to the front door post on a EB van) and cut the other section to fit the passenger side wall to the door post. I used the E-Track sections to mark the holes by mounting it with a few screws first. The holes need to be just the right size for the RivNuts to work, too big and they will spin when you install the bolts, you do not want that.
3 Use a decent Rivnut tool, some are much better than others. I used Steel Rivnuts for the walls and I was getting quite strong yet very sore after doing all of them in just one day. you can compress them by using a bolt,nut and washer but that method takes forever.
4 Test fit the tracks before putting up the walls just to make sure you can get the bolts in. I drilled 3/8 inch holes in the walls despite only using 1/4 inch bolts in the track, that way if the wall isn't exactly in the same place when you got to install it after the insulation the bolts still go in the holes. I wanted the holes to be covered but was just looking for a little adjustment


Pictures: Bed Installed, Right Wall with Lower Insulation done and DynaMat at the top still exposed, Bare wall with E-track installed for test fit...Let me know if you have any more questions...
...Jamie
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Right Wall E-Track.jpg   Right Wall Insulation.jpg   Bed.jpg  
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Old 05-10-2012, 08:51 AM   #10
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Re: Interior lining

Great info -- thanks for so much detail! We will have our pop-top added first week of June...then we will get rolling on the interior!

Cheers,
DJM
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