My new home

[wmkbailey]

Not sure how to do the walls yet. Lots of detail doing the floors, but not much on the walls. I read that Reflectix need a ¼ to ½ air gap to work best. May glue in ¼ plywood strips every two feet and glue foam on top of plywood, that would give me ¼ air gap between. Not sure how to attach plywood walls to hold attaching cabinets. Any ideas would be helpful.

[BroncoHauler]

Originally Posted by wmkbailey

Not sure how to do the walls yet. Lots of detail doing the floors, but not much on the walls. I read that Reflectix need a ¼ to ½ air gap to wok best. May glue in ¼ plywood strips every two feet and glue foam on top of plywood, that would give me ¼ air gap between. Not sure how to attach plywood walls to hold attaching cabinets. Any ideas would be helpful.

I believe Reflectix is available in single layer and double layer versions, so that may be another decision for you.

I guess more air gap is just about always better, as the air gap provides the resistance to change in temperature, but I thought that's what the bubbles in Reflectix were for.


Herb

[wmkbailey]

I thought the same, but read several post that say otherwise. Then found this on the Reflectix site.

The less air space between the product and the sub-floor, the lower the R-Value (although reflectivity will be maintained).

Examples of benefits based on air space width above product:

• 0.5” air space = R-2.7
• 0.75” air space = R-4.6
• 3.5” air space = R-8.2

[wmkbailey]

I decided to put the foil backed foam after the Reflectix. The air gap only gives you R-2.7 the foam gives you R-3.8, why waste the space. I installed my shore power connector so I could start the passenger side wall. My fuse box and battery will come in on the passenger side. My furnace and stove and propane bottle is on the driver's side. I did not want to bring my shore power near the propane. I am using a ParkPower by Marinco 304EL-BRV RV 3-Wire Contoured Chrome Locking Power Inlet (30-Amp, 125-Volt, Male). It is quick connect and water proof, made for boats. I like the low profile.



Quick connect 30 Amp.



Inside it wires up like an extension cord connector.



I started to bubble wrap the passenger side.



Here is what the plywood frame for my window looks like, we will see how well it works.

[Roonie]

Originally Posted by wmkbailey

I installed my shore power connector so I could start the passenger side wall. My fuse box and battery will come in on the passenger side. My furnace and stove and propane bottle is on the driver's side. I did not want to bring my shore power near the propane. I am using a ParkPower by Marinco 304EL-BRV RV 3-Wire Contoured Chrome Locking Power Inlet (30-Amp, 125-Volt, Male). It is quick connect and water proof, made for boats. I like the low profile.



Quick connect 30 Amp.



Inside it wires up like an extension cord connector.

That is almost exactly what SMB uses. How do I know? Because I had to replace mine and wire it since the lid broke off. All they have is a heavy gauge wire coming off the back.

[wmkbailey]

Made a little progress this week. Lots of rain, now an earthquake. Whats next a hurricane, oh yea, one is headed our way. I started by making a box around the window to cut and fit to the curve of the wall. This will create a small window sill.



Did not realize how hard it was going to be to cut and fit to a curve. I'm using two layers of foil backed 1/2" foam board glued to 1/4 plywood. I used the first layer of foam board to get the template started. Used it to make the second layer, and that as a template for the plywood. I was able to get within 1/4 gap around window. I should be able to add trim and cover the gap.



This shows the curve that I will mark and cut the window sill to.



I will take it all down, glue and screw window sill and put back together. To line up the edges of the plywood, I'm going to add a brace behind one edge that the other edge will rest on. Hear is both pieces up, a little triming and they should fit good.



On a side note, the van started to run very ruff this weekend. Then she started to shift hard or not at all. The overdrive light was blinking, not good. My mechanic found an electrical issue with the shifting solenoids. Also the engine mounts are cracked. The shop that sold me this piece of junk is going to hear from the state ploice, in Maryland they are in charge of vehicle inspections, this would not pass. I first called and e-mailed them about the above issue, but they did not answer back.

[wmkbailey]

Well its over as quickly as it started. The transmission is shot and needs to be replaced. I'm out $1400.00 to find out I need to spend another $3000.00 to get it fixed.

[BroncoHauler]

Originally Posted by wmkbailey

Well its over as quickly as it started. The transmission is shot and needs to be replaced. I'm out $1400.00 to find out I need to spend another $3000.00 to get it fixed.

Find a mechanic who can swap out a replacement trans from a junkyard. Maybe not a permanent solution, but could help keep the dream alive.


Herb

[wmkbailey]

Thanks BronkoHauler, that may be the way to go. I'm am going to keep working on it. I talked to the mechanic again, and the issue is after the solenoids pack was replaced the pressure still kept climbing to high. that is causing the hard shifting. I can drive it short distances but not to often, seals could go. Home depot and Loews are only a mile away. I will start looking for a good used transmission.

Anyone have any sugestions on what to watch out for on a used transmission let me know. Per the new mechanic, since it was running smooth when I bought it, there was know way to know it was going to break like it did. Something gave way that is now fouling up the pressure. What ever it is, is still intermittent. It will run and shift smooth for a time and then act up again.

[wmkbailey]

I checked the van after surviving the hurricane, and have a little water coming in on the downhill side of my windows. I'm parked with the front of the van downhill. Looks like a little water comes in around the gasket that seals the crank-out bottom window and collected inside, eventauly filling up the sill and leaking over and inside. There are weep holes there where the water is but the water is not weeping out well. The weep holes are punched in put barely. Would drilling them larger help, The outside holes are punched better, the metal is folded back all the way. The inside the metal is still covering the hole mostly.