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03-12-2018, 10:54 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Los Gatos, CA
Posts: 44
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project build, 1999 ford e350 extended van with 7.3 powerstroke and only 50k miles
I decided to move this thread here so those of you interested can follow my build..Ok, I was on the fence about building this van, its not exactly what I was looking for but the engine, price and the miles were right! For those of you that didn't read my first thread in the for sale section I original posted this for sale. I had hoped that I would get an offer that I couldn't refuse. Say 14k and I'd walk away.. that didn't happen on here.. I could have listed it on craig's list again but I was only half hearted about selling..
A little while back I found this van on craig's, it was originally purchased locally by a electronics company for shuttling employees and equipment around the bay area. Story I was told was a disgruntled employee stole the keys one day and quit, So, it sat parked in the back lot for nine years without any use hence the low mileage. It was hard to believe but with new batteries and fresh fuel a $20 ignition lock cylinder, some air in the tires it drove home. The interior shows pretty perfect. Its a 14 passenger model, the original rear seat was removed never to be recovered by me, I assume to haul parts and such. The exterior is/was a little rough in my standards, a few door dings, mostly surface rust around the drip rail and some parking lot gouges made it appear a little rough. The tires were sun damaged the windscreen was cracked, rear bumper bashed. But underneath it was a like new 7.3 e-350 van with only 50k miles!! After getting it home and going around it with a fine tooth comb, Its potential outshined its neglect and I started working on it.
My plans are to fix all the body cosmetics, paint it and then start a 4x4 conversion, interior dry camping set up and make it my pride and joy. Originally I was in search of an affordable sprinter van to convert, doing my diesel van search everyday when this popped up.
My budget is 30k all in... can I do it??
In order to drive it and shake down the bugs from sitting I decided to just start with the basics.
Week 1
All fluids and filters $300
Matching new locks and ign cylinder e-bay 119.00 ford oem
Replaced the tires 245 75/16 cooper at $650
new brakes front and rear , (sticky calipers) $300
new windscreen $250
new rear bumper $150
new side door (bad dent) $200
This weekends efforts:
My first big labor intensive project is to address the worst rust spot above the drip rail cut it out and replace the damaged portion.. luckily it was just one area .. Grind out all the seam sealer all the way around the roof and treat the other surface rust to prevent further damage.. I'd be done today but rain stopped me from completing this. $200 materials
Wed it goes to the body shop for a complete repaint and all dings to be addressed.
After that the 4x4 conversion starts! yea!
rust repair day one
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03-12-2018, 11:09 PM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Los Gatos, CA
Posts: 44
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pics
here are the rust repair pics from Saturday!
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03-13-2018, 02:30 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 772
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Nice job on the rust. Did you use a piece of sheet metal? How did you form it? Did you weld it in?
Quote:
Originally Posted by VanDude72
Matching new locks and ign cylinder e-bay 119.00 ford oem
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Do you have a link to these?
__________________
2003 Astro AWD
2005 Tacoma Access cab 4x4
1999 E350 RB 7.3 "Al B. Tross" aka "Exxon Valdez"
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03-13-2018, 06:03 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Posts: 3,764
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteelheadJones
Do you have a link to these?
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I've used these guys with great success---claim to be the same manufacturer Ford uses OEM: Rocket Keys Locks Remotes | eBay Stores
If that link doesn't work look for seller "rocket-keys" in eBay's member search.
They're good quality, seller is willing to work with you if their standard offerings don't exactly suit your needs.
HTH
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03-13-2018, 10:59 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 772
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Awesome, thanks JWA.
__________________
2003 Astro AWD
2005 Tacoma Access cab 4x4
1999 E350 RB 7.3 "Al B. Tross" aka "Exxon Valdez"
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03-13-2018, 12:41 PM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Los Gatos, CA
Posts: 44
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I cut out a section of the door I replaced, I rolled it in a sheet metal break 1/8 at a time to get the radius and the right angle to set into the drip rail. It was welded in place slowly one spotweld at a time to prevent warping. Only a thin coat of Bondo needed!
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03-13-2018, 01:17 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 772
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Skillz. And toolz. Wish I had em!
__________________
2003 Astro AWD
2005 Tacoma Access cab 4x4
1999 E350 RB 7.3 "Al B. Tross" aka "Exxon Valdez"
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03-13-2018, 11:26 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Los Gatos, CA
Posts: 44
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Thank you! It's been a long time since I polished my bodywork skills, I sometimes even impress myself!
Today, more rain.. no body work, but managed to remove the drive shaft and replace the u-joints with grease-able spicer joints.. I was hearing a tink in the drive train under heavy load taking off from a light.. checked motor mount was good, maybe just front springs or the sway bar bushings but thought i'd check the u-joints too. Once removed, although they felt good but I was not satisfied and no way to grease them I decided for $26.00 each to just press in new ones with a zirk.. hopefully the tink noise will be gone tomorrow if I can re-install and test drive..
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03-14-2018, 05:45 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Posts: 3,764
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VanDude72
Thank you! It's been a long time since I polished my bodywork skills, I sometimes even impress myself!
Today, more rain.. no body work, but managed to remove the drive shaft and replace the u-joints with grease-able spicer joints.. I was hearing a tink in the drive train under heavy load taking off from a light.. checked motor mount was good, maybe just front springs or the sway bar bushings but thought i'd check the u-joints too. Once removed, although they felt good but I was not satisfied and no way to grease them I decided for $26.00 each to just press in new ones with a zirk.. hopefully the tink noise will be gone tomorrow if I can re-install and test drive..
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Not to derail your great thread but Spicer makes and pretty much recommends using their non-greasable u-joints---I was shocked at first too.
Seems they believe their solid permanently lubricated versions tend to be stronger which does make sense in its own way. Of course in almost 50 years of driving various beat-to-hell POS vehicles I've never broken a u-joint. A few have lost bearings and darn near fallen out but never had one actually break.
Of course any brand other than Spicer wouldn't be my first choice anyway.
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03-14-2018, 06:26 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: FL and VA
Posts: 1,941
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Subscribed. Nice work on the repair.
__________________
Chris
2008 GMC 3500 Quigley Weldtec 4x4 Savana SMB
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