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Old 10-15-2009, 08:09 PM   #11
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Re: Quick question: rust inhibitor and plugging holes

Bondo is bad because it absorbs moisture and then holds it against the metal... a common problem in the rust belt.

We've found that the aluminum tape works great to cover holes. I've patched rust holes the size of nickles in my old XJ doors with aluminum tape and then rustoleum'd over it... I expected to have to go back but it was still there when I parted it out after about six years of hard wheeling.

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Old 10-16-2009, 03:58 PM   #12
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Re: Quick question: rust inhibitor and plugging holes

I'd not use silicone sealer for sealing any holes. The biggest problems with it are:

- If the part moves, it breaks the silicone
- After you have used silicone sealer, nothing else will stick, not paint nor adhesives
- Silicones give off moisture and acid as they cure. You will get rust under the silicone.

If you want to put a bolt in a hole and seal it, use a butyl tape or rope. See an autobody supply house for some butyl windshield sealant. If you ever want, you can remove it. You can tighten or adjust a bolt later and it will continue to seal.

In case you can't tell, silicone sealant is a pet peeve of mine.

Mike
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Old 10-17-2009, 01:32 AM   #13
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Re: Quick question: rust inhibitor and plugging holes

Do you have Sikaflex products in the US?
Oh just found the US site
http://www.sikacorp.com/
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Old 10-19-2009, 07:46 PM   #14
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Re: Quick question: rust inhibitor and plugging holes

Second vote for aluminum tape.

First wire brush "clean."

Then Rustoleum rust converter (or equivalent).

Then Rustoleum zinc cold galvanize spray.

Then several layers of tape (3 or so). You could put one on upside down (a penny sized piece) to cover the hole and not have a sticky side exposed. Should last forever.
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Old 10-19-2009, 09:56 PM   #15
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Re: Quick question: rust inhibitor and plugging holes

My order is a bit different, most notably that I rusteolum OVER the aluminum tape.
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Old 10-23-2009, 06:28 PM   #16
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Re: Quick question: rust inhibitor and plugging holes

Quote:
Originally Posted by jage
My order is a bit different, most notably that I rusteolum OVER the aluminum tape.
I think you want the most sacrificial zinc close to the metal instead of on the tape.
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Old 11-06-2013, 05:49 PM   #17
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Re: Quick question: rust inhibitor and plugging holes

for small holes hold a brass drift pin over one side of the hole and spot weld the hole from the other side. it will fill the hole without sticking to the brass drift.
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Old 11-06-2013, 06:16 PM   #18
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Re: Quick question: rust inhibitor and plugging holes

When I filled the holes in my 2005 Chevy Express van floor, I used machine bolts and then had a friend clean and undercoat the underside. Inside, I used EZ Cool and then 1/2" Styrofoam insulation. Then I put down the plywood. I hope to use Rust Bullet on the hitch and any places where rust can occur. It is expensive, but supposed to really work.
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Old 11-07-2013, 10:34 PM   #19
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Re: Quick question: rust inhibitor and plugging holes

I can see why Bondo won't work, but how about an epoxy, like JB Weld? It's extremely hard, is easy to use, and I've never known it to shrink or allow water penetration.

I have many bolt holes to fill, too, and can use the butyl-and-bolt method. However, I'd prefer not to if epoxy will work.

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