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Old 06-01-2011, 11:20 AM   #11
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Re: Red Zeppelin build.

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i see that wvvan had small sections of the stuff applied. i wonder if that is just as effective and covering everything is overkill?
I used both the expensive and the Lowes version of foil-bubble wrap but I did it for insulation not sound deadening. If you will be camping in cold weather you should cover as many interior metal surfaces as you can. Otherwise you'll get condensation. An inner skin of bubble wrapped stopped all condensation except on the windows.

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Old 06-01-2011, 07:46 PM   #12
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Re: Red Zeppelin build.

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Originally Posted by WVvan
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i see that wvvan had small sections of the stuff applied. i wonder if that is just as effective and covering everything is overkill?
I used both the expensive and the Lowes version of foil-bubble wrap but I did it for insulation not sound deadening. If you will be camping in cold weather you should cover as many interior metal surfaces as you can. Otherwise you'll get condensation. An inner skin of bubble wrapped stopped all condensation except on the windows.
i was refering to the photo of your van where i saw what looks like sound deadener applied in a pattern rather than full coverage. this before you foamed and bubble foiled. im debating if i should go that route or go for full coverage. my thinking is what you did might be effective enough for my sound control needs and would represent a cost and time savings. ive been meaning to pm you actually.

as far as cold weather and condesation, absolutely necessary as ill be boondocking. my design calls for a layer of sound deadener (method t/b/d) then the rigid xps foam between studs (pactive stuff from lowes like you used and i put on floor already) with expanding foam shot where needed, followed by reflectix/foil bubble type stuff and finally the finish treatment which will be wood (currently fleshing that out as well, ive an interesting idea).

i will seek to maintain some airspace so the reflectix can be more effective. from what ive read, it is more effective if not sandwiched tight (although it will still cut down on transmissive(?) exchange). it can increase the R value slightly if an airspace is maintained. im going to try to do this by spanning the stuff from stud to stud. rather than taping or gluing it to the previous layer, leaving some slack. not sure it will work mechanically (worried about its structural integrity and coming loose while driving) but i am going to test it out once the first two layers are done as it will be easy to test. every little bump in R value will help and this method wont actually change the thickness of my walls any more than was originally assumed. in fact, it only represents a slight change in how i apply it really so worth trying out.

interestingly, i called the makers of the pactiv xps insulation that lowes sells. i was curious about the plastic film that covers both sides. incredibly, i got through to a very helpful csr who put me in touch with one of their scientists. the film serves solely to keep the board intact during handling. does nothing else really. it would snap if it werent there. i was curious since their website, the instructions on the board nor a .pdf i found even mention it. the .pdf just said it was there. i was concerned that the film may act as a vapor barrier and might create additional condensation when faced directly onto another material with a vapor barrier or metal film like the Ratrap. i described what my plan was with the floor and walls of the van and the materials i was using and they gave it their blessing. very nice peeps to speak to.

sorry for the long post. i type fast and in a stream of thought. lol.
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Old 06-03-2011, 07:04 PM   #13
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Re: Red Zeppelin build.

welcome to the chevy club
luv the red! and best wishes on the build.
thom

Oh a quick PS after i reread this thread. I did the reflectix and bubble wrap insulation on my chevy with the layer details in a couple posts near the bottom of this page of my build thread. also a couple pix.
cheers!
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