Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 02-28-2010, 10:06 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 10
Removing a rear air conditioning unit from a Ford van

I am in the process of converting my 1995 Ford Club Wagon (Econoline) RB van into a camper. The van in question has a rear air conditioning unit on the driver side rear and I would really like to remove it to make space for a bed. Is this something that can be done?

Basically I can get all the screws out that mount it to the wall and can disconnect all the electrical. However, there are two hoses that go into the unit (they run under the body of the van towards the front) and I am worried about disconnecting these. I am well aware of the dangers and environmental concerns of releasing freon into the atmosphere and thus have not attempted to disconnect these hoses.

Has anyone else ever dealt with this? If I do manage to remove this air conditioning unit will I still have functioning AC in the front?

Thanks
__________________

thuynsm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2010, 10:48 PM   #2
Site Team
 
BroncoHauler's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Southern New Mexico
Posts: 8,333
Re: Removing a rear air conditioning unit from a Ford van

On my rear AC system (aftermarket installed by SMBw), the factory and aftermarket refrigerant lines are one system, and disconnecting a hose on one will purge the entuire system of freon. I would suspect the factory Ford rear AC would be the same, but I cannot vouch for that. If there's no additional compressor, I'd say the two systems are combined into one.


Herb
__________________

__________________
SMB-less as of 02/04/2012. Our savings account is richer, but our adventures are poorer.
BroncoHauler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2010, 11:31 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
mjeffrey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Monroe, WA
Posts: 310
Re: Removing a rear air conditioning unit from a Ford van

I had this done on mine (a 2008). The hoses tie into the entire system - to have my rear unit removed, the shop had to evacuate the coolant/refrigerant/freon first.

They then added a loop to the end of the hard lines, a cap (actually a quick coupling, but I'm not sure why) to the end of the third line, and recharged the system. The front AC works perfectly still.

I think the total cost was about $300, including the cost to drain/recharge the coolant.





The ducting runs along the bottom of the side panels as well, and I think was glued to the inside of those panels.

Let me know if you have more questions.

Cheers!
Mike.
mjeffrey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2016, 04:01 PM   #4
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 6
question

Was the space worth it? it looks like the amount of space for maybe a briefcase?
hackinmage is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2016, 04:28 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
carringb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Corvallis, OR
Posts: 3,770
Beware that Ford does not recommend capping A/C lines at the rear. You are supposed to the replace the hard lines up front to eliminate the Tee, because dead-end lines will accumulate A/C oil and starve the compressor, causing it to fail eventually.

The heater loop is acceptable however. Or it can be capped. Either way. Or it could be run to a coolant water heater
__________________
2000 E350 extended wagon dually
V10 w/ Banks Powerpack, Diablo Predator
Buckstop Outback bumper/grill guard
Reunel rear bumper
carringb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2016, 05:33 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
86Scotty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: TN
Posts: 7,370
Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoHauler View Post
On my rear AC system (aftermarket installed by SMBw), the factory and aftermarket refrigerant lines are one system, and disconnecting a hose on one will purge the entuire system of freon. I would suspect the factory Ford rear AC would be the same, but I cannot vouch for that. If there's no additional compressor, I'd say the two systems are combined into one.


Herb
Herb, you are correct, and CarringB, you are spot on.

I just bought a 98 with cut rear lines and they simply replaced the T in the lines in the engine compartment for the factory part without rear air. It's not hard to get to. I would love to have your parts and lines so I can put mine back into service! My rear unit is intact. Anyway, this isn't a big job for a shop with AC/freon equipment, which is to say almost any shop.

__________________
2006 Chevy Express AWD
2015 Transit MR T350 ecoBoost, Vanilla
SMBs and other various vanlike projects sold...
...My name is Eric and I have a van problem...
Make me an offer on one!
86Scotty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2016, 07:29 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
BrianW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 2,585
I looked at a Pleasure-Way Traverse a few months ago that was for sale locally. I saw on the dash that it had the rear AC knob, but when looking underneath saw that they cut and capped the lines and removed the rear AC unit, which I found surprising.
BrianW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2016, 08:55 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
boywonder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: So Cal
Posts: 2,815
You sure you want to do this? There are about 15 people here who would love to have that hardware.....one of them being 86Scotty above....
__________________
2008 E350 RB passenger advanced 4WD SMB penthouse
2008 KTM 250 XCF-W
2000 KTM 200 EXC
2006 Honda CRF 250X
2003 Honda Element
boywonder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2016, 10:27 PM   #9
Junior Member
 
caroline5757's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Michigan
Posts: 29
I removed my rear air conditioner by myself with no consequence a year ago. I have zero skill or knowledge for anything mechanical. I'm a 21 year old girl and didn't feel like spending the $400 they said it would be locally. so I just cut the pipes, ripped it out and then went to a local mechanic and asked what parts I needed. The guy explained everything to me and gave me all the connectors and stuff it was like $40 at the most for all the parts. He even wrote down instructions and drew me pictures. By it was super easy.

Just make sure you loop the coolant lines properly, those are the squishy black ones, not the hard shiny ones. When I cut them I drained all the coolant and then refilled the tank and just had to run it, then top it off, run it and top it off.

It all still works perfect. And the whole thing cost less than $40. I'd say just wing it and if you get stuck, don't be afraid to ask a mechanic for advice. They're usually happy to explain things to you for free. I've even had guys offer to come over and take a look at things to make sure it was done right for free.
caroline5757 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2016, 06:03 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
BrianW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 2,585
Quote:
Originally Posted by caroline5757 View Post
I'd say just wing it and if you get stuck, don't be afraid to ask a mechanic for advice. They're usually happy to explain things to you for free. I've even had guys offer to come over and take a look at things to make sure it was done right for free.

Well, maybe if you are a 21-year-old woman they are happy to explain things for free, but not so much if you are a 40-something man asking ;-)
__________________

BrianW is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Sportsmobile SIP or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:58 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.