Removing a rear air conditioning unit from a Ford van

thuynsm · 02-28-2010, 10:06 PM

I am in the process of converting my 1995 Ford Club Wagon (Econoline) RB van into a camper. The van in question has a rear air conditioning unit on the driver side rear and I would really like to remove it to make space for a bed. Is this something that can be done?

Basically I can get all the screws out that mount it to the wall and can disconnect all the electrical. However, there are two hoses that go into the unit (they run under the body of the van towards the front) and I am worried about disconnecting these. I am well aware of the dangers and environmental concerns of releasing freon into the atmosphere and thus have not attempted to disconnect these hoses.

Has anyone else ever dealt with this? If I do manage to remove this air conditioning unit will I still have functioning AC in the front?

Thanks

**BroncoHauler** · 02-28-2010, 10:48 PM

On my rear AC system (aftermarket installed by SMBw), the factory and aftermarket refrigerant lines are one system, and disconnecting a hose on one will purge the entuire system of freon. I would suspect the factory Ford rear AC would be the same, but I cannot vouch for that. If there's no additional compressor, I'd say the two systems are combined into one.

Herb

mjeffrey · 02-28-2010, 11:31 PM

I had this done on mine (a 2008). The hoses tie into the entire system - to have my rear unit removed, the shop had to evacuate the coolant/refrigerant/freon first.

They then added a loop to the end of the hard lines, a cap (actually a quick coupling, but I'm not sure why) to the end of the third line, and recharged the system. The front AC works perfectly still.

I think the total cost was about $300, including the cost to drain/recharge the coolant.

The ducting runs along the bottom of the side panels as well, and I think was glued to the inside of those panels.

Let me know if you have more questions.

Cheers!
Mike.

hackinmage · 09-22-2016, 04:01 PM

Was the space worth it? it looks like the amount of space for maybe a briefcase?

carringb · 09-22-2016, 04:28 PM

Beware that Ford does not recommend capping A/C lines at the rear. You are supposed to the replace the hard lines up front to eliminate the Tee, because dead-end lines will accumulate A/C oil and starve the compressor, causing it to fail eventually.

The heater loop is acceptable however. Or it can be capped. Either way. Or it could be run to a coolant water heater

86Scotty · 09-22-2016, 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BroncoHauler

On my rear AC system (aftermarket installed by SMBw), the factory and aftermarket refrigerant lines are one system, and disconnecting a hose on one will purge the entuire system of freon. I would suspect the factory Ford rear AC would be the same, but I cannot vouch for that. If there's no additional compressor, I'd say the two systems are combined into one.

Herb

Herb, you are correct, and CarringB, you are spot on.

I just bought a 98 with cut rear lines and they simply replaced the T in the lines in the engine compartment for the factory part without rear air. It's not hard to get to. I would love to have your parts and lines so I can put mine back into service! My rear unit is intact. Anyway, this isn't a big job for a shop with AC/freon equipment, which is to say almost any shop.

BrianW · 09-22-2016, 07:29 PM

I looked at a Pleasure-Way Traverse a few months ago that was for sale locally. I saw on the dash that it had the rear AC knob, but when looking underneath saw that they cut and capped the lines and removed the rear AC unit, which I found surprising.

boywonder · 09-22-2016, 08:55 PM

You sure you want to do this? There are about 15 people here who would love to have that hardware.....one of them being 86Scotty above....

caroline5757 · 09-22-2016, 10:27 PM

I removed my rear air conditioner by myself with no consequence a year ago. I have zero skill or knowledge for anything mechanical. I'm a 21 year old girl and didn't feel like spending the $400 they said it would be locally. so I just cut the pipes, ripped it out and then went to a local mechanic and asked what parts I needed. The guy explained everything to me and gave me all the connectors and stuff it was like $40 at the most for all the parts. He even wrote down instructions and drew me pictures. By it was super easy.

Just make sure you loop the coolant lines properly, those are the squishy black ones, not the hard shiny ones. When I cut them I drained all the coolant and then refilled the tank and just had to run it, then top it off, run it and top it off.

It all still works perfect. And the whole thing cost less than $40. I'd say just wing it and if you get stuck, don't be afraid to ask a mechanic for advice. They're usually happy to explain things to you for free. I've even had guys offer to come over and take a look at things to make sure it was done right for free.

BrianW · 09-23-2016, 06:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by caroline5757

I'd say just wing it and if you get stuck, don't be afraid to ask a mechanic for advice. They're usually happy to explain things to you for free. I've even had guys offer to come over and take a look at things to make sure it was done right for free.

Well, maybe if you are a 21-year-old woman they are happy to explain things for free, but not so much if you are a 40-something man asking ;-)