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Old 06-22-2014, 09:24 AM   #1
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Sound deadening

I know a lot of ground up builders have been using Fatmat as a first layer for their rigs.

When I look at reviews elsewhere, many people were complaining about its performance in heat because it was made with asphalt. These are a little old though, and I am wondering if Fatmat has updated its backing to butyl or something similar.

I live in an area that runs 100-117 in the summer, so this would be a concern.

Also, does anyone have an opinion on 50mil vs 80mil? I'd love to know your thoughts!
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Old 06-23-2014, 04:04 AM   #2
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Re: Sound deadening

Here's my opinion on FatMat etc as opposed to other materials better suited to killing road noise inside our vans. I'm assuming we're talking about covering the inside walls? The floor is another matter altogether.

FatMat etc is great for it's intended purpose--killing the drum-like effect of sheet metal panels typically in close proximity of high powered audio speakers. (As a side note such material needs only to cover no more than 35% of an area to be very, very effective.) As mentioned FatMat etc tends to be asphalt and subject to ill effects of heat. Add in IF its used inside an exterior body panel subject to direct sunlight in sunbelt states it might see temps approaching 120*+ on some days. Its my understand its quite costly too although I've never priced it in earnest.

I've used a higher quality radiant barrier insulation, foil on one side, PVC sheeting on the other gluing it to the inner side walls and roof with a 3M spray adhesive, approximately 100% coverage (glue and insulation). Doubling the layers may or may not work "better"---I've never used just one layer.

This is not necessarily a highly effective heat insulation but it serves two other purposes: sound attenuation AND condensation retarder. For right about $170 (guessing) you get a 48" by 100' roll that easily does a even an extended body van, 100% interior coverage with two layers if desired---there would be some left over too. (I've done two complete RB E250's with one roll.)

As this material is meant to be installed in high-heat applications IMHO its much much better suited to sound deadening when applied to a van's roof and side walls.

Here's what I've used: http://www.radiantbarrier.com/double...insulation.htm Once upon a time they posted prices but seems you'll have to call them now for pricing and shipping.

HTH
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Old 06-23-2014, 02:09 PM   #3
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Re: Sound deadening

Thanks for the reply and the link. I've been comparing radiant barriers but I haven't seen this one yet.

A number of folks on this board with home-builds have been lining their vans with Fatmat, but I don't know their climate situations. Elsewhere I heard of some problems with odor and adherence. I've heard that Dynamat is a better, though more expensive option. Most of what I am reading is pre-2010, so I did not know if anything changed. I'll play it safe an go with Dynamat.

I'll be using a radiant barrier as well. My situation is a little unique in that I am renovating an older camper van. The current noise level is out of control, but I am not committed to tearing the whole thing apart. There are a number of areas where I am going to the walls, and so I thought reducing the noise there might be a help.
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Old 06-23-2014, 05:40 PM   #4
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Re: Sound deadening

I have nothing to compare it to, but my entire floor, walls and doors are done with Fatmat.

There was an order while installing, but short lived.

I live in Colorado, so there is a wide range of temps, sometimes over 100. I am not sure what your question is about it with heat, but I am very happy with its performance.

Fatmat works amazingly well defeating road noise.

It doesn't do anything to reduce heat in the van except the walls were cooler to the touch versus bare metal.
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Old 06-23-2014, 05:56 PM   #5
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Re: Sound deadening

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2horsegarage
I have nothing to compare it to, but my entire floor, walls and doors are done with Fatmat.
Thanks for sharing your experience. That helps a lot. I am in Central CA and it is usually ungodly hot.

Did you use the 80mil? If so, was it relatively easy to put on? I am going to have to do a fair amount of tucking and nooking, so I am toying with using 50mil instead.

My question about heat was with the installation of the mat and its adhesion, not insulation. Sorry if I wasn't clear. On further investigation it seems the problems with temperature were the opposite of what I thought. Complaints mostly stemmed from the product not adhering if applied in cooler weather. Some found the mat slid down under panels after installation. Heating the area up seemed to help so it should work great in the summer.
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Old 06-23-2014, 06:40 PM   #6
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Re: Sound deadening

I haven't used Fatmat but I've used Dynamat. I've also seen stuff at Home Depot that looks the same but most of it does. I would suspect there's few suppliers of this product. I spent somewhere around $500 in the cab area of my 2006 E350 6.0L . No smell or adhesion issues even in the cold. I don't regret it. I'm now moving to the area behind the seats and I'll use limited amounts because there will be plenty on sound deadening wood installed. I'll skip the floor. It seems like a waste of money. Just my opinion. Barry
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Old 06-23-2014, 06:50 PM   #7
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Re: Sound deadening

Yeah, the Fatmat doesn't adhere for sh*t if its cold.

75+ is about right, and the warmer the better. Super easy to install as long as its warm. I used a rubber roller like you'd use to install laminate as well as the wooden rollers it came with. It was easy to manipulate into the curves and edges, and cut with a razor.

But, I bet you'd be surprised at how little it really takes to be effective. Just a few small pieces made a big difference --- but I did the whole thing anyway.

Here are some pictures of me starting the floor and then placing smaller pieces on the outer tin, prior to me doing the rest.

Everything I read for Dynamat was great, but it was out of my price range. My wife says the odor lasted a few days longer than I remember, but it was not bad.
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4 start of sound deadening.jpg   21 More Floor fit.jpg  
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Old 06-24-2014, 10:14 AM   #8
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Re: Sound deadening

There are several brands of "dynamat" type stuff available. It seems I recall from my research that some of them don't have asphalt. I got mine from Second Skin Audio.

The first thing to reduce noise is close up any holes from the outside. We removed our rear air conditioning, which left about a 3/4" hole in the floor in the back. Just sealing a piece of sheet metal over this hole cut the noise level in half. The other area to look at is the doghouse cover. On our van the sheet metal floor was actually bent down, which left a gap under the doghouse. I bent it back up and it made a quite noticeable difference in noise.
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Old 03-10-2015, 11:16 PM   #9
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Re: Sound deadening

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2horsegarage
Yeah, the Fatmat doesn't adhere for sh*t if its cold.

75+ is about right, and the warmer the better. Super easy to install as long as its warm. I used a rubber roller like you'd use to install laminate as well as the wooden rollers it came with. It was easy to manipulate into the curves and edges, and cut with a razor.

But, I bet you'd be surprised at how little it really takes to be effective. Just a few small pieces made a big difference --- but I did the whole thing anyway.

Here are some pictures of me starting the floor and then placing smaller pieces on the outer tin, prior to me doing the rest.

Everything I read for Dynamat was great, but it was out of my price range. My wife says the odor lasted a few days longer than I remember, but it was not bad.
What did you use for your subfloor above the dynamat? How do you like it and cost?
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Old 06-03-2015, 06:55 PM   #10
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Re: Sound deadening

Sorry for the delay. I have been off the forum for 6 months or more....

As for the subfloor. I used strips of carpet padding in the low areas of the floor. I had initially used sheets of foam, and the plywood... but the foam compressed and was just think enough to take up precious headroom.

I ripped it all out and started over. I made a fatal flaw and the insulation and plywood floor based shared the same seams - which created soft spots.

I stay with the carpet pad to fill the gaps but used sound deadening sheathing from Lowes and plywood above that. You can see it here: viewtopic.php?f=24&t=8849&start=45

This set up has worked well. PM me if you have questions.
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