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02-08-2018, 03:45 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: houston, tx
Posts: 335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twilkins
From the little I have researched it seems like the rotorcraft ones were redesigned to help prevent the dreaded blow out's. So I just want to make sure I am getting the newest design and correct plugs.
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it was a head casting/machining issue, not a plug issue on the modular motors; the issue was the heads only had 4 threads for the spark plugs until early 2003. then they had 8 threads. on the heads on my race truck, they were ported 4-thread heads, so they have aluminum thread inserts installed in them to avoid blow outs.
also the 97 should be the non-pi heads, so you could look at getting some 2003+ 2v PI (performance improved) heads and matching intake manifold for a small upgrade in performance, while also getting the factory 8-thread heads, but that may be more involved than you are looking to get into.
guys have been repairing the blown plugs for years with kits like you mentioned before, and had no issues.
__________________
'99 ford e350 - 7.3L 4x4
'10 ford f150 raptor scab
'53 buick special eight - the sled
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02-08-2018, 04:55 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Corvallis, OR
Posts: 5,300
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The motorcraft ones will be platinum. If you go other than motorcraft, be sure to get platinum. You'll need to jump to "double platinum" to match the life of the motorcrafts. Copper plugs won't last long at all in a Triton.
__________________
2000 E450 dually V10 wagon
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02-10-2018, 06:01 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Posts: 3,774
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bet on black
i would time-sert it, and forget about it. also, don't use anti-seize on the plugs if they are the 4-thread castings, which is likely.
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I'd disagree mightily with this----anti-seize is almost imperative for those who let plugs go longer than 50K miles. Regardless the "era" of the heads (3.5 threads vs Performance Improved) and in spite of the platinum coating on plug threads there's always the issue of corrosion in that area making removal a real challenge. Nickel-based anti-seize on plugs torqued to 23 ft/lbs works perfectly.
FWIW I've always contended plug removal can have a significant effect on thread longevity, almost as much as over-torquing. OTOH factory spec's of 7-14 ft/lbs has quite a few plugs becoming loose which can lead to them being spit out.
I do fully agree using Motorcraft plugs is the best bet. Many will and do claim the ignition system doesn't know the difference yet on FTE time and time again issues of misfires after plug renewing have been traced back to another brand.
Time-Sert is the only way to go if anecdotal information about plug thread repair is any indication.
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02-10-2018, 08:11 AM
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#24
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 13
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Thank you for the other perspective. Is the view on not putting anti-seize on simply because it is not needed or is the theory that it can actually do harm? I'm trying to figure out why someone wouldn't use it?
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02-10-2018, 09:51 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Posts: 3,774
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twilkins
Thank you for the other perspective. Is the view on not putting anti-seize on simply because it is not needed or is the theory that it can actually do harm? I'm trying to figure out why someone wouldn't use it?
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The general thought is properly spec'd plugs with the platinum coating don't need it, that the coating essentially replaces anti-seize. Assuming anti-seize isn't slopped over the plug electrode it's presence has no effect on performance.
The only real downside using anti-seize is not increasing the installed torque to maintain a good clamping force between plug and head. There is a fascinating thread on FTE where a user casually tests to the breaking point plugs in a head: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ead-heads.html. To me that's one of the all-time best threads, a real eye-opener IMHO.
Remember the V8 & V10 Modular Motors are the same design apart from the two additional cylinders.
Because the factory torque spec is 7-14 ft/lbs when I use anti-seize that's increased to 21-23 ft/lbs. I've used this method since 2008 on three different gasoline 5.4 engines, accumulated mileage about 200K between them. One is due for new plugs this coming summer---I hope to remember to check the prevailing torque, see if the plugs have loosened or are difficult to remove after 55K+ miles on Motorcraft plugs.
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02-10-2018, 10:26 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: TN
Posts: 10,242
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There's no way I'm skipping anti-seize on an engine that has EVER been reported having a spark plug issue, blow outs, seize-ups or whatever. I've never had a plug come loose and never used a torque wrench on one.
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02-10-2018, 05:22 PM
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#27
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Site Team
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Southern New Mexico
Posts: 10,179
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No spark plugs on diesels. Just sayin....
__________________
SMB-less as of 02/04/2012. Our savings account is richer, but our adventures are poorer.
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02-10-2018, 07:55 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Corvallis, OR
Posts: 5,300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoHauler
No spark plugs on diesels. Just sayin....
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Let us know how much fun a glow plug job on either the 7.3 or 6.0 is.
__________________
2000 E450 dually V10 wagon
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02-11-2018, 05:49 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Posts: 3,774
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carringb
Let us know how much fun a glow plug job on either the 7.3 or 6.0 is.
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Booyea on all those diesel owners!
Regardless what fuel we use seems engines in any of our vans have their own special issues, none of which we'd wish on our best friends.
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02-11-2018, 06:05 AM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: houston, tx
Posts: 335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carringb
Let us know how much fun a glow plug job on either the 7.3 or 6.0 is.
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Why would you even say such a thing? Lol
__________________
'99 ford e350 - 7.3L 4x4
'10 ford f150 raptor scab
'53 buick special eight - the sled
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