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Old 03-27-2017, 04:05 PM   #21
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Thanks Scott. I really need to take off the intake and check the throttle and that elbow and anything else I can see. I appreciate it and it's on my mind for sure.

If I give it a rev in park it seems like it's gonna stall and then catches itself a bit. If cold it will rev up again. Definitely can feel it when driving if I let off quick.
I just went through this on mine and the elbow was definitely the issue. With the intake system pulled off and the throttle cover/cable stop out of the way the swap was easy. My recommendation......don't get far enough into the job and not change it out.

Scott

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Old 03-27-2017, 04:14 PM   #22
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I just went through this on mine and the elbow was definitely the issue. With the intake system pulled off and the throttle cover/cable stop out of the way the swap was easy. My recommendation......don't get far enough into the job and not change it out.

Scott

I'll pull it apart tonight or tomorrow and that will give me a chance to get a new one before the weekend.
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Old 03-28-2017, 07:09 PM   #23
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I'm glad you started this thread as I'm having a similar issue right now. Of course I can't just buy a van that doesn't have any issues after selling the first van I ever bought.

But mine is kind of odd in that when I start it up cold it revs up and down until I drive it for a couple minutes and then everything smooths out. But occasionally at a stop (wether I'm in park or not) the rpms will start to drop like it's gonna die but it always comes back up.

The odd part is that mine is a 2010 5.4l with 13k miles... I did pull a big mouse nest out of the top of the engine but haven't found any leaks yet.

I already pulled the intake back to the throttle body and cleaned it but it didn't help so I'm wondering if mine is related to a fuel filter that needs to be swapped. I threw some fuel stabilizer/cleaner (sea foam) in the tank so we will see. With no codes being thrown it's not so easy to eliminate things.

Hope you figure it out!

Edit - I guess I put all of this just to say you are not alone.
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Old 03-29-2017, 09:41 PM   #24
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Well I took a long look around the throttle body tonight and the PCV valve and hose. The hose looked fine as can be. I did quick disconnect it and reconnect, it's not like those clips are super tight or anything.

There was oil down at the PCV valve and in the hose, I am thinking this is replacement time?? Hose and valve are like 40 bucks. Hopefully this is normal and not symptomatic of something else.

So I had the filter portion of the intake off and fired up the engine and checked the give it a rev condition that goes to low idle. It was way worse! Van almost stalled. At idle I give it some gas and it reved down below 300 and paused like it would stall then recoverd. Put it back on and it wasn't as bad. Maybe a bad MAF??

Driving tonight I noticed that letting off the pedal results in a bad drop in RPMS. At low speed around a corner it drops a gear and then I have to gun it to get it going again. Strange but obviously related. The van just doesn't coast right either. I am considering a new PCV valve and MAF sensor as I can do those easily. But then I might be just throwing parts at it without really knowing.

I bought a BLUE DRIVER scan tool which is really cool. No codes at all and lots of live info you can look at. Because I am engine dumb it's meaningless unless it actually throws a code or has one pending. But a cool little tool none the less and certainly worthy to keep in the tool bad when on the road.

I will post up, but this one might be heading to FORD to put on their big machine. Something just ain't right.

Maybe it's just us Sweezy?? Too anal or something.

Tell you what though, the vinyl floor I put in really deadens the sound coming off the road. While it's not Mass Loaded Vinyl, it is heavy vinyl and it certainly made a huge difference.
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Old 03-30-2017, 05:44 AM   #25
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I'm way curious to see what the solution to this winds up being. So weird for a V10 to cause trouble, especially a newer one.

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Old 03-30-2017, 08:39 AM   #26
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Well I took a long look around the throttle body tonight and the PCV valve and hose. The hose looked fine as can be. I did quick disconnect it and reconnect, it's not like those clips are super tight or anything.

There was oil down at the PCV valve and in the hose, I am thinking this is replacement time?? Hose and valve are like 40 bucks. Hopefully this is normal and not symptomatic of something else.

So I had the filter portion of the intake off and fired up the engine and checked the give it a rev condition that goes to low idle. It was way worse! Van almost stalled. At idle I give it some gas and it reved down below 300 and paused like it would stall then recoverd. Put it back on and it wasn't as bad. Maybe a bad MAF??

Driving tonight I noticed that letting off the pedal results in a bad drop in RPMS. At low speed around a corner it drops a gear and then I have to gun it to get it going again. Strange but obviously related. The van just doesn't coast right either. I am considering a new PCV valve and MAF sensor as I can do those easily. But then I might be just throwing parts at it without really knowing.

I bought a BLUE DRIVER scan tool which is really cool. No codes at all and lots of live info you can look at. Because I am engine dumb it's meaningless unless it actually throws a code or has one pending. But a cool little tool none the less and certainly worthy to keep in the tool bad when on the road.

I will post up, but this one might be heading to FORD to put on their big machine. Something just ain't right.

Maybe it's just us Sweezy?? Too anal or something.

Tell you what though, the vinyl floor I put in really deadens the sound coming off the road. While it's not Mass Loaded Vinyl, it is heavy vinyl and it certainly made a huge difference.
Do yourself a large favor and do not touch the MAF beyond cleaning with an approved spray. They are far more durable than people make them out to be and don't fail with the frequency one would believe. The van will always run rough without the filter in front of the MAF since the turbulent air causes drastic changes in the hot wire readings. These changes cause instant engine fluctuation to account for the perceived amount of air the engine thinks it needs. Without laminar flow across the sensor and bore dia, it cannot work properly.

Change the easy and cheap things first, namely the PCV and hoses that go to the throttle body. A little oil in the PCV is normal since it deals with oil vapor from the crankcase.

Any surging or high/low alternating idle is an air leak behind the MAF. Once air comes into and through the MAF, the computer can adjust the amount of fuel and throttle plate bleed (idle air control circuit) to keep the engine running smooth. If you have any leak into the engine after the MAF, the computer's sent commands are not registered as effective and it keeps trying to correct. It is quite surprising though that you have not had a check engine light come on during this process. Vacuum leaks typically trigger emissions-related codes. Be on the lookout for P0171 and P0174 (lean bank codes).

Following the logic of cheap and easy fixes, as mentioned above change the fuel filter. If the engine's fuel supply is inconsistent, similar symptoms can happen. This is far less likely, but still a possibility. To rule out the fuel pump as an issue, run a fuel pressure test at the rail with a loaner tool from an auto parts store. I believe the pressure should read between about 30 and 43 psi while driving. If that does not check out ok or the pressure doesn't change, pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator and see if there is any fuel on the diaphragm side (vacuum line side). If so, this indicates a bad FPR.

Does the air conditioning system switches in the dash direct air correctly to all the vents or does it only come out of the defroster?

Again, my money is on the PCV system not working properly. Change the $4 part and report back!

Scott
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Old 03-30-2017, 09:04 AM   #27
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I bought a BLUE DRIVER scan tool which is really cool. No codes at all and lots of live info you can look at. Because I am engine dumb it's meaningless unless it actually throws a code or has one pending. But a cool little tool none the less and certainly worthy to keep in the tool bad when on the road.

When I had my V-10 I bought a cheap scan tool from Itunes that monitored lots of cool stuff. While driving through Death Valley the van starting acting up real bad (similar to your symptons). We limped into Pahrump and left it with a mechanic. He couldn't find anything wrong... We unplugged the scan tool and.. Voila.. the van started running great again.

Could this be related to the issues you're having?
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Old 03-30-2017, 09:22 AM   #28
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I'm way curious to see what the solution to this winds up being. So weird for a V10 to cause trouble, especially a newer one.

Sounds like V10's need some bullet-proofing.
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Old 03-30-2017, 09:23 AM   #29
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I didn't run with the scan tool on, but I will certainly watch out for that one!! Nothing like causing your own issues.

Scott, thanks for the long response, I appreciate it and am starting to learn here!! The AC blows fine, but I will certainly check it again just to make sure. My best bet for sure is to change the PCV and hose out on the outlet side, maybe check the breather and hose on the other side. But I certainly agree, start with cheap and easy stuff that need maintenance anyway and work my way up. Fuel filter is on my list as well, why not??

But yeah, zero codes, which leads me to believe it is something simple. Straight out the van runs pretty nice, still lots of power, but it just seems to be acting a bit strange in certain instances like the idle, around corners, and dropping RPM's way too fast at speed when I let off.

I do like your suggestion on the fuel pressure and will give it a test. I give myself through the weekend and then take it to my mechanic and let him check it out. Dealership as a last resort.
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Old 03-30-2017, 09:23 AM   #30
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Sounds like V10's need some bullet-proofing.
I changed the air filter and put gas in it, should be good to go for 400k
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