$400 for sparkplugs on a 5.4????

SierraHawk · 01-08-2010, 06:26 PM

I called two dealers about changing the sparkplugs on my 2003 E350 5.4 engine. I was quoted $386 by one Ford service rep and $400 by another Ford service rep. I would do them myself but apparently there are problems with the plug threads stripping.

Anyone have a cheaper/safe way of changing the sparkplugs?

**BroncoHauler** · 01-08-2010, 06:52 PM

Wow, there's one aspect where my diesel is actually cheaper than a gasser. No plugs!

Had a buddy with a Chevy Trailblazer. Passed smog testing measurements but still threw a code so they wouldn't pass it. Go figure. So he went in to have an O2 sensor changed. They stripped it trying to get it out, so they had to remove the exhaust manifold. Busted a couple of boltheads off the exhaust manifold so the had to remove the cylinder head. Can't remember if that came off cleanly. Did Chevy cover it, NO! Ended up costing my friend about $4000 to have an O2 sensor changed, even though the vehicle passed the emissions test.

Back to your original question, no direct help there. Shop around for someone who knows what they're doing, not just someone who's "cheaper". It may cost you in the end. Vans just suck to work on. Actually, most modern vehicles suck to work on, but vans really suck.

Herb

surfgeek33 · 01-08-2010, 07:02 PM

OUCH! How about a local mechanic? Most of the time, they are a lot more affordable than dealer prices.

Ray

Ford_6L_E350 · 01-08-2010, 08:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SierraHawk

I called two dealers about changing the sparkplugs on my 2003 E350 5.4 engine. I was quoted $386 by one Ford service rep and $400 by another Ford service rep. I would do them myself but apparently there are problems with the plug threads stripping.

Anyone have a cheaper/safe way of changing the sparkplugs?

Why do you need to change the plugs? Do you have over 100,000 miles on them?

Seriously, plugs last almost forever with unleaded gas. As does the exhaust system. Maybe that is something the smog laws actually helped us with.

Mike

unimogdave · 01-08-2010, 08:26 PM

I went to change my plugs for the first time and discovered the fuel rail runs just above the coils that are on each plug. I decided it would be a smart idea to google "how to change plugs ford van"
It turns out its best to remove the fuel rail and then the coils,looks like a pain and takes close to 2 to 3 hours to do, this explains the high dealer price. Well I put the project on the back burner because the van runs great. You best bet is to find a good independent shop.

Dave

motorup25 · 08-09-2010, 08:25 AM

Changing plugs can be very challenging, to say the least. You can do it but be prepared and very careful. The best thing you can do is study all the Ford forums. Remember that some things are specific to the trucks and others for vans. Like anything else on the internet, you'll have to throw out the crud and utilize the gems of information. They have alot of info about plugs and how to work with them. Give yourself a month of lead time to research and prepare. You'll need to know how to work with a COP (coil on plug) design. You'll need some special tools (1/4" ratchet with a swivel, short and longer extensions, and a quality 7mm socket). Give yourself lots of working room---take out the front seats (be careful about the electrical connectors), the doghouse, and get a stool or ladder to work from the front. You'll need a long (about 5 or 6") plug socket that has good rubber inside to grip the plug. Extensions and swivels. Blow out the engine compartment (first from the inside toward the outside) and the plug areas as well as the plug wells when the COP boots are off. Buy some COP plug boots to replace any old or worn out ones (I went ahead and replaced all of mine--they come with new springs). Use only motorcraft plugs and check them out the night before the job. I check the gap even though they say they are pregapped. I even check out the threads and porcelain and everything else on each plug with a magnifying glass. Then I put some antiseize on and put them back in the box ready as I pull each plug. I like to minimize the time the plug hole is open and empty. Remember to blow forced air (air compressor or a vacuum cleaner on blow mode with a narrow nozzle) on the plug with the boot on, then again when the boot has been removed, and yet again after 2 or 3 counterclockwise turns during plug removal. A note on the coil bolts. They are small and when you put them back on only use your hand, the extension, the swivel U joint if you need it, and the 7mm socket. Then use the 1/4 ratchet held only by your thumb and forfinger. I read about people who overtighten and break off then bolts. Better too loose than too tight. I have a habit of checking these once a year when I remove the seats and doghouse for my own yearly engine inspection. There's alot to learn and know, but you can do it if you are tenacious, vigilant, and VERY, VERY CAREFUL about what you are doing. Good luck

Jeffrey · 08-09-2010, 09:38 AM

Unbelieveable. Only in America will designers come up with this approach. Dontchya wish these things were designed in Germany?

**BroncoHauler** · 08-09-2010, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeffrey

Unbelieveable. Only in America will designers come up with this approach. Dontchya wish these things were designed in Germany?

It's called a Sprinter.

Jeffrey · 08-09-2010, 02:31 PM

Say, that's right, Herb!

Silver350 · 08-09-2010, 05:56 PM

OK, this one really strikes a nerve.

$400 bucks to tune up an engine every 50-60 thousand miles is a problem? People are paying north of a 100 GRAND FOR A FREAKING VAN that will spend most of it's life driving down a paved road and have a problem spending $400 for a tune up? What, every 2 or 3 years? Are you kidding me?

$400 translates to about $120 in parts and 2-3 hours of labor plus shop supplies. Or maybe that is plus parts. Big deal. Compared to 5K for, oh I don't know lets see, maybe, a front bumper?

As far as that DIY description on changing plugs goes...Planning a month in advance? Taking out both seats? I have a feeling that if that is what it took, the dealer would be charging a whole lot more than $400!

As far as "only in America" could something like that be designed? I say only in America would somebody buy such a highly modified, high performance vehicle and bitch about paying for a little bit of routine maintenance. Is a Sprinter really that much easier to work on or cheaper to maintain?

How about all those "premature" transmission failures. People drive their vehicles to 50 or 60 thousand miles and never give a thought to the tranny fluid. Instead of changing it every year for 150 bucks they wait till it calfs, probably in a Starbucks drive through after paying $5 for a coffee, and then get on the internet to talk about how bad a product the American Auto Companies make. Of course nobody here would do such a thing