5.4 Quit running today

[Dirk Mitchell]

Well the good news is I got the second seat mounted while I had the tank down. Had to go to Napa and get a filler hose and the other hoses they were all rotting on the outside. Got the new pump installed and tank back up and when the key is cycled it has almost 40 psi and it starts right up!

Bad news is it still doesn't stay running it dies after about 15 seconds and if you touch the accelerator it dies right away. I replaced the IAC valve and that did not change it either so I am not sure where to go from here. Still no codes I guess it could be the fuel pressure regulator, I ha e a solid 12.33 volts through the system.

My mechanic is outta town so I am waiting for him to call me back.

[MountainBikeRoamer]

Originally Posted by BrianW

What says the collective about replacing the pump as preventative item? 1998 5.4 with 113k still on original pump.

Originally Posted by carringb

I did. Based on age and mileage, the 2nd time it took an extra second of cranking, I went ahead and ordered a new on.

So.....this is definitely one of those "should I replace it now?" kind of questions that's popping up in the consciousness a lot lately. More and more so, as threads like this one pop up repeatedly with fuel pump failure stories....

To further squeeze for details/opinion with the question that BrianW started:
Q: What's the greater indicator of increased liklihood of fuel pump failure.....straight-up age, or total mileage?

Or.....are both equally influential in moving a fuel pump closer to its expiration date? I've got a 1995 E250, which puts the fuel pump at right around 23 years old. And yet the van has "only" 94,000 miles or so....but dang, any parts that are 23 years old, yeeeesh.....this is a "classic vehicle" by many measures of age......

It seems that one could reasonably conclude (for these Ford vans) that doing a preemptive fuel pump replacement (with Motorcraft parts) is right up there with all the "best practice / keep 'er runnin' a long time" items like replacing aging belts, hoses, plugs, wires, etc......

EDIT:
Hey Dirk, sure hope that your fuel pressure issue resolves soon!

[arctictraveller]

[QUOTE=Dirk Mitchell;223312] Got the new pump installed and tank back up and when the key is cycled it has almost 40 psi and it starts right up!

Bad news is it still doesn't stay running it dies after about 15 seconds and if you touch the accelerator it dies right away.QUOTE]

Well, that's a bummer. Did you replace the fuel filter too? What is the fuel pressure when it dies? Does it restart as soon as you cycle the key?

12.3 volts is pretty low, is that with the engine running? 12.2vdc is considered dead when testing the state of charge with a volt meter. You should see about 13.2vdc with a fully charged battery and a running engine. That's the float charge voltage. Fully charged and rested for several hours should give you about 12.6 or even 12.7vdc. You may have an electrical problem. Low voltage will cause a motor to run hot, and aparently fuel pumps don't like heat.

https://pssurvival.com/PS/Batteries/...ltage_1993.pdf

[carringb]

My vote for fuel pump life is definitely age. Mine started showing symptoms just a month or 2 before it went out on my brother's Expedition, which is a '99. But it had 1/4th the miles.

Also, my dad's went out before mine by a year or two, at about 1/3rd the miles. My '94 van also went out around the 10 year mark.

[Dirk Mitchell]

[QUOTE=arctictraveller;223319]

Originally Posted by Dirk Mitchell

Got the new pump installed and tank back up and when the key is cycled it has almost 40 psi and it starts right up!

Bad news is it still doesn't stay running it dies after about 15 seconds and if you touch the accelerator it dies right away.QUOTE]

Well, that's a bummer. Did you replace the fuel filter too? What is the fuel pressure when it dies? Does it restart as soon as you cycle the key?

12.3 volts is pretty low, is that with the engine running? 12.2vdc is considered dead when testing the state of charge with a volt meter. You should see about 13.2vdc with a fully charged battery and a running engine. That's the float charge voltage. Fully charged and rested for several hours should give you about 12.6 or even 12.7vdc. You may have an electrical problem. Low voltage will cause a motor to run hot, and aparently fuel pumps don't like heat.

https://pssurvival.com/PS/Batteries/...ltage_1993.pdf

As soon as the van starts running it is 13.5-13.9 steady on my Ultra Gauge and if I measure with a meter it is just over 12 when it is not running. Battery is good and electrical system seems to be in good shape.

It will turn right back on no isee as soon as I turn the key but it will only run for 15-30 seconds and then dies. If I touch the accelerator it dies instantly.

I tried cycling the key about 10 times and the fuel pressure was constant and it fires right up.

I did change the fuel filter on the side of the road when it first happened. When I had the pump out and looked in the tank it was super clean no gunk or anything in it at all.

[arctictraveller]

[QUOTE=Dirk Mitchell;223334]

Originally Posted by arctictraveller

As soon as the van starts running it is 13.5-13.9 steady on my Ultra Gauge and if I measure with a meter it is just over 12 when it is not running. Battery is good and electrical system seems to be in good shape.

.

13.5vdc is good, but the battery should be over 12 when off. Still, with a running 13. something, you should be ok. What is the fuel pressure just before and after the engine dies? Does it drop off? It's possible you got a bad pump, or there is a loose connection between the fuse box and the fuel tank.