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Old 09-15-2013, 08:41 AM   #21
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Re: 6.0L Oil and EGR cooler replacement in the shade of a tr

Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeH
Well-played Sir! The gritty gunk is probably casting sand from the block. A good reason to still install a coolant filter.
I've heard that, I've also heard silicates from the coolant, but regardless, a coolant filter is a wise investment IMO.

Even though it's not as big a factor for a 7.3L, I just ordered a coolant filter for my Excursion.


Herb

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Old 09-15-2013, 09:02 AM   #22
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Re: 6.0L Oil and EGR cooler replacement in the shade of a tr

Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoHauler
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeH
Well-played Sir! The gritty gunk is probably casting sand from the block. A good reason to still install a coolant filter.
I've heard that, I've also heard silicates from the coolant, but regardless, a coolant filter is a wise investment IMO.

Even though it's not as big a factor for a 7.3L, I just ordered a coolant filter for my Excursion.


Herb
Probably a combination of both. Here's a nice little write-up on the oil cooler gunk as well as some other helpful articles. http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles. ... oolers-r26

Cleaning the EGR valve: http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles. ... eaning-r18
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Old 09-15-2013, 09:13 AM   #23
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Re: 6.0L Oil and EGR cooler replacement in the shade of a tr

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Once the reservoir was dry, I pulled out the strainer. It had definitely been doing its job, but one of the panes had failed. I've seen a lot of versions of this exact picture on the interweb. This is one of the parts I'm updating.
That pic is exactly why you should use Motorcraft oil filters. I know the Amsoil setup is supposed to be the "best", but 100% of the cases where I've found the ruptured screen an aftermarket filter has been used. Anything other than Motorcraft/Racor allows too much oil to bypass, which allows debris to accumulate on the screen until it ruptures. I've never myself seen the Amsoil setup in person, but I have my concerns...

Once that screen ruptures, all that debris is now going into the HPOP and injectors.
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Old 09-15-2013, 11:45 AM   #24
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Re: 6.0L Oil and EGR cooler replacement in the shade of a tr

So it turns out the Standpipe & Dummy Plug (6E7Z-9A332-B) isn't accessible without taking the heads off. I'm not doing that, so these tubes aren't going on.
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Old 09-15-2013, 05:07 PM   #25
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Re: 6.0L Oil and EGR cooler replacement in the shade of a tr

Spent 5 more hours today. Up to 16 total hours spent.

New seals installed on HPOP assy. Replaced branch adapter fitting. Service manual said to thread it in 5 turns, I needed 6 to get the holes to line up. New fitting on the left, old on the right.


The new fasteners that came with the service kit were all the same length, and the same as the one short screw that came out. I reused the two long screws.
The HPOP service kit came with a new IPR screen kit, so save yourself $40 and don't buy 3C3Z9H529A. Seems like a reasonable thing to have a spare of though, so I'll keep it.

Updated the guts of the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Kit # 4C2Z-9T517-AA is actually for an Excursion and the regulator housing is different. But it has the blue spring, a new poppet, and the key-hole shaped seal is the same. Just to be sure, I depth-mic'd the spring pocket in both housings to verify they're the same. They are.

I assembled and mounted the coolant filter but decided to wait until I have more stuff put back in so I don't put the lines in my own way. I put the filter head on the outboard side of the driver's side frame rail just fwd of the Amsoil filters. The bottom of the filter is higher than the house battery and the T-case crossmember and I'm only a little worried about the tire kicking something into it. There's other stuff in that area that I think is probably more vulnerable (and critical) so I'll address that someday.


This will be a good spot if I ever add a Hydronic and plumb my heat exchanger like the Badgers.

I'm out of things to do until I get the clean parts back but I spent another hour drinking beer and looking for things to do or clean.
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Old 09-18-2013, 09:17 AM   #26
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Re: 6.0L Oil and EGR cooler replacement in the shade of a tr

Got my parts back from the washer yesterday afternoon so I put in another 4 hours last night.
The parts weren't super dirty, but hot tanking them exposed some caked on coolant scale that I was then able to remove. The manifold wouldn't fit in the tank so the shop used some kind of water blaster to knock the grime and most of the carbon off.


Here's the parts after cleaning.



The oil cooler was really easy to assemble. The cooler actually came with instructions which were more clear than the service manual.

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Old 09-18-2013, 09:22 AM   #27
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Re: 6.0L Oil and EGR cooler replacement in the shade of a tr

I reinstalled the oil cooler after carefully cleaning the sealing surfaces. Carb cleaner and a shop towel worked pretty well for that.



Oil cooler installed and torqued.



I thought about filling that pocket with fresh oil before installing the cooler (to reduce the cranking time on first start), but the manual didn't say to and I don't have oil to waste if it just spooged out.
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Old 09-18-2013, 09:25 AM   #28
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Re: 6.0L Oil and EGR cooler replacement in the shade of a tr

I assembled the EGR stuff onto the intake manifold.


When you get your BPD EGR cooler, don't mail the old one back before you take this clip-nut off and put it on your new cooler. My old cooler was in the box to go back but luckily I didn't plan to throw away or mail back anything until the van is back together and running.

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Old 09-18-2013, 09:36 AM   #29
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Re: 6.0L Oil and EGR cooler replacement in the shade of a tr

I cleaned the intake port seal surfaces one at a time, trying hard not to knock dirt or FOD into the ports. Then I wiggled the manifold into position and slipped the new gaskets under it. After counting my FOD plugs to make sure I had 16, I settled the manifold down on the heads and torqued the bolts in sequence. I wish I had a torque wrench with better low-range resolution (I try not to use the lowest 10% of the adjustment range), but the one I have worked. The torque spec for these bolts is 8ft-lb which is just under that threashold for my 90 ft-lb wrench. I have an inch-oz wrench but I use it often at work and forgot to bring it home. With the manifold back in there, the engine bay feels crowded again.


I finished up the night by reconnecting the fuel injectors (#1 is a serious PITA), sensors, and resecuring the wiring harness. I decided to stop there because I want to QA the wiring when it's light and I'm not tired.

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Old 09-21-2013, 10:58 AM   #30
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Re: 6.0L Oil and EGR cooler replacement in the shade of a tr

Oil tubes, Turbo, and exhaust are all back in. The flanges between the head pipes and turbo adapter pipes are not symmetrical and it's not obvious.


Alternator and serpentine belt back on, as are the turbo outlet tube.
All that took 5 hours.

Radiator and stuff going back in this morning. I picked up some Fleetguard Restore and a crap ton of distilled water. Going to flush the cooling system before I put in the Zerex Extreme HD ELC (EC-1).
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