BPD remote oil cooler HD or standard?

Bartfriend · 03-12-2018, 11:11 PM

I have an 05 e350 with a 6.0 that I am rebuilding the engine in. Plan is to go 4x4 with a ujoint kit.

I have the opportunity to purchase a used Bulletproof Diesel remote oil cooler kit for a little more than half the price of a new one. The only thing that concerns me is that it is the HD kit with a larger cooler.

Has anyone mounted the HD kit on their van? Where did you put it? Any unforeseen issues with the install? Is it just too big to mount in a van?

Just talking to the guys at BPD they don’t want to sell you a kit for the van if you are going 4x4 because of where the kit places the oil filter. It will interfere with the front drive shaft. So one way or the other the kit I will be doing some fab work. But if the HD cooler is just too big maybe I bike the bullet and buy the van kit?

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Bbasso · 03-13-2018, 07:52 AM

Since you are going with the UJOR setup, I'd contact Chris and ask .

JoeH · 03-13-2018, 08:04 AM

Don't do it. It's a solution in search of a problem. Sticking an ELC collant with a coolant filter and OEM oil cooler is more than sufficient. Since your doing a rebuild leftover casting sand isn't an issue and there won't be any silicates/gelling in the system from the Ford Gold coolant.

Did you have cooling system issues prior to your rebuild?

Twoxentrix · 03-13-2018, 08:41 AM

Bartfriend, I visited Chris at U-Joint a couple weeks back about installing a BPD Oil Cooler. My motivation was to lower Oil temps - have 4:56 gears and to maintain a 70mph speed I turn about 2400 rpm's , which causes the engine to run hotter than what I like. Insult to Injury, my Aluminess bumper covers the bottom 1/4 of the radiator (which is the cause of the majority of my issue). Chris pretty much mimic'd JoeH's comment above - Dont do it. He stated he had done several, and none seemed to help lower the engine temp. & its just more hoses to contend with and have to monitor.
Also had 2 other Diesel Performance Shops tell me the same thing before I met with Chris.

Bartfriend · 03-13-2018, 09:05 AM

Thanks for the feedback guys.

Twoxintrix, I am looking at it for the same reason. I bought the van with a bad EGR cooler that I assume was caused by a plugged oil cooler. Living in SoCal, converting to 4wd I am trying to get as much heat out of the engine. From what i understand, from reading the internet so take it for what it is worth, is that the limiting factor to the power rating in the van was due to heat. The motor is shoe horned in there with no airflow around it.

So if I move the oil cooling out of that space and take the load off of the cooling system it will lower all of the temps. See where I am going with this?

Where do you guys live?

Can anybody else from the southwest chime in?

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Bartfriend · 03-13-2018, 09:06 AM

JoeH I just saw you are in AZ. Do you do much off-roading?

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JoeH · 03-13-2018, 09:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bartfriend

JoeH I just saw you are in AZ. Do you do much off-roading?

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Yes, I'm in Flagstaff. I'm 90/10 road/offroad. Offroad is mainly an ends to a means like getting to a cool campsite. Or, up and over one of the passes in Colorado like Imogene to get to a hike. I've never had an issue with overheating. The transmission with the small cooler, however, is a different story. Diesels like to run hot. There are other mods you can do to get the heat out of the engine bay.

Something oft overlooked is the vans were not detuned. The HP is what International originally designed the engine for. It was Ford that chipped the HP to 325 on the trucks in order to compete with the Duramax and Cummins. They also declined to install a coolant filter as recommended by International. They then blamed all the head gasket/EGR issues and mounting warranty claims on International. The mid 2000s was the era of the diesel truck wars.

The BPD setup is not worth the money. The stock OC was improved with an extra row of cooling fins added and is less than $300. It does the job just fine as long as you add a coolant filter and get rid of the Ford gold coolant. IMO of course. I'd only do it if I had a tow rig and regularly crossed Death Valley. Also, it's still an air setup. Your not getting much air across that cooler while rock crawling. Same goes for the transmission cooler. I'd replace that for sure. Lots of us have had good luck with the 40K TruCool tranny cooler.

Also, you did need a spot for that remote oil cooler. That precludes having a nice front bumper like the one from Aluminess. I have seen, however, folks mounting the cooler in the spot where the winch goes.

JoeH · 03-13-2018, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bartfriend

So if I move the oil cooling out of that space and take the load off of the cooling system it will lower all of the temps. See where I am going with this?

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What exactly are your temps? There's lot of threads with respect to what is normal. EOT of 230F is just fine. The cooling fan is PCM controlled so will come on at different temps but generally doesn't get triggered until ECT is 220F+. Heat does kill other things like alternators, the FICM, and wiring harness components.

These are the definitive threads in this forum for cooling system mods:
http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...ment-4061.html
http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...eat-13247.html
http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...-ii-14819.html

edit to add: Welcome to the Forum!

Twoxentrix · 03-13-2018, 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bartfriend

Thanks for the feedback guys.

Twoxintrix, I am looking at it for the same reason. I bought the van with a bad EGR cooler that I assume was caused by a plugged oil cooler. Living in SoCal, converting to 4wd I am trying to get as much heat out of the engine. From what i understand, from reading the internet so take it for what it is worth, is that the limiting factor to the power rating in the van was due to heat. The motor is shoe horned in there with no airflow around it.

So if I move the oil cooling out of that space and take the load off of the cooling system it will lower all of the temps. See where I am going with this?

Where do you guys live?

We are on the East Coast in Annapolis MD. We travel quite a bit (great places from the Smoky Mountains, and all States North & into Canada). Like most, 80% is getting to the destination - I'm on the search for a remedy to get my RPM's down & consequently lowering Oil & coolant temps. After discussing with several shops staffed with "People in the know", I have 3 options at this stage
1. Change my 4:56 gears to 4:10 (at 70mph this would lower rpm's by about 300 to 2100rmp).
2. Change the leaf springs to get an additional 2" lift and put on 37's (at 70mph this would lower my rpms about 150 to 2250rpms, which is acceptable, but I'm not thrilled about raising the truck more than what it is. Would also probably lower the effectiveness of the brakes because of larger tires)
3. Gear Vendors. And this one I find very interesting - just came up as a suggestion the other day, but have to investigate it more.

Sorry, getting off track. Had the Van weighed for the first time 3 weeks ago (after reading through a couple older threads) and it peaked 11,000/lbs...thats Loaded & with a full tank of gas - That opened my eyes as well. Finding a way to get air to the radiator is the key for me - Just not ready to give up the Aluminess Bumper, or the Winch.

Bartfriend · 03-13-2018, 06:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Twoxentrix

We are on the East Coast in Annapolis MD. We travel quite a bit (great places from the Smoky Mountains, and all States North & into Canada). Like most, 80% is getting to the destination - I'm on the search for a remedy to get my RPM's down & consequently lowering Oil & coolant temps. After discussing with several shops staffed with "People in the know", I have 3 options at this stage
1. Change my 4:56 gears to 4:10 (at 70mph this would lower rpm's by about 300 to 2100rmp).
2. Change the leaf springs to get an additional 2" lift and put on 37's (at 70mph this would lower my rpms about 150 to 2250rpms, which is acceptable, but I'm not thrilled about raising the truck more than what it is. Would also probably lower the effectiveness of the brakes because of larger tires)
3. Gear Vendors. And this one I find very interesting - just came up as a suggestion the other day, but have to investigate it more.

Sorry, getting off track. Had the Van weighed for the first time 3 weeks ago (after reading through a couple older threads) and it peaked 11,000/lbs...thats Loaded & with a full tank of gas - That opened my eyes as well. Finding a way to get air to the radiator is the key for me - Just not ready to give up the Aluminess Bumper, or the Winch.

Gear vendors is right down the road from me. I have a friend with a 99e350 with the 7.3 with a GV over drive. He has had it for 5 or 7 years and lives it he tows a giant toy hauler with a side by side and a couple motorcycles out to the desert from San Diego. There is a monster grade between here and there that he has no problem with. He can’t get up it at 75 but he can do 55 no problem.

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