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Old 04-03-2015, 11:11 AM   #21
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Re: Bullet proof question

I personally think a good rule of thumb for any diesel truck is a pyrometer, let alone one that has an increase in power over stock.

I'm not sure headstuds are even necessary on a 6.0L van, since with the increase in power you're looking at, you are near what the factory 6.0L is tuned for in the Ford pickup trucks. At stock power levels, the 6.0L in the pickups rarely have heads leaks, it's usually in chipped trucks. That said, it's relatively cheap insurance and now would be the time if you're so inclined.

I know some site offer ceramic coated up-pipes to help keeps temps down, but I don't know if they will fit the vans.


Herb

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Old 04-03-2015, 11:46 AM   #22
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Re: Bullet proof question

Thank you for the prompt reply.

Yes, I have a Edge scanner measuring turbo temps on the up pipe. I will make sure about the SS unison ring and 360* thrust bearing.

There IS a ceramic up pipe for the turbo for the E350...I understand this is pretty standard pipe, per mechanic.

I am inclined to do studs for insurance and peace of mind but also to access the engine and address all issues.

Regarding cold starts. I had one issue in the bitter cold which is rare in the NW lately However I had two dead battery issues. Once requiring dual batter replacement. and second, yes regrettable left a flipped switch and drained my battery and I am sure stressed the new ones out. This is death for the FICM, but I have had no issues yet. I like what the Dieselproof unit offers when you read their design approach - 6 phase with less stress on internal electronics and larger heat distribution fins. My mechanic agreed that issues are in the power side of the unit and since my FICM is young it makes sense to keep the logic board.

58V gives better performance, cold weather start. If replaced, 58V unit was recommended as well.

I have read the debates on G05 vs an ELC coolant. Two mechanics now suggests to keep the G05 due to better electrolyte chemistry which affect the seals. This one suggested giving an additive to the G05 only. My brother has seal issues with ELC and his 7.3 PSD F250 truck. Went with a different ELC. What ELC do you use and for how long and flush how often?

Keep the suggestions coming!
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Old 04-03-2015, 12:09 PM   #23
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Re: Bullet proof question

I just switched to Shell Rotella CAT-1 ELC coolant. The Ford Gold was intended as a one size fit's all coolant for all Ford models and wasn't specifically designed with diesels in mind. Of course, you can find all sorts of opinions on that and whether or not the silicates and such are better for motors with aluminum parts. Properly maintained the Ford Gold is probably just fine. You can google your brain out on this but here's a few threads I had bookmarked.

http://www.powerstrokenation.com/forums ... hp?t=88658
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/12763 ... -plus.html
http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f23 ... ndex2.html

Quote:
58V gives better performance, cold weather start. If replaced, 58V unit was recommended as well.
I'd like to see proof of this. All I could find was anecdotal evidence in the diesel forums. No studies with real data. The system was designed around 48V. Besides, why add any extra heat to the FICM or the engine bay in a cramped engine bay that already has an issue with excess heat?

If your going to buy into the BPD hype then you should also have a go at what Ed has to say. http://www.ficmrepair.com/

Did I forget to mention warranty for life? It bothers me that BPD charges a premium and barely offers a warranty on their FICM? At the very least, if you buy their power side then send in yours to FICMrepair or Swamps and get the cheapest rebuild option and keep it as a backup.
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Old 04-04-2015, 10:51 AM   #24
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Re: Bullet proof question

Interestingly my mechanic who will be doing this work recommended a local guy who rebuilds stock turbo with all stainless steel inner and billet wheel over the Garrett with a billet wheel mod for this application and they are a Garrett dealer. I wonder if the latter is better. Ultimately I should defer to him given his profession. But I would regret not replacing something while it is apart.

Second question. If I have an injector out, should I replace it or all of them with better ones? I feel my 6.0 is plenty powerful as is at 80 hp econo. Those that added more power what Advantage did you find? I have not towed yet but desire the option.

Would you replace the water pump with a billet one on such a young van since labor is free?

I desire reliability and peace of mind.

Your thoughts are appreciated.

J
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Old 04-05-2015, 12:05 AM   #25
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Re: Bullet proof question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ketcham
Interestingly my mechanic who will be doing this work recommended a local guy who rebuilds stock turbo with all stainless steel inner and billet wheel over the Garrett with a billet wheel mod for this application and they are a Garrett dealer. I wonder if the latter is better. Ultimately I should defer to him given his profession. But I would regret not replacing something while it is apart.
I'll take a stab at your questions but just my opinions and you know what that means. Personally, I would do more research so you get exactly what you want rather than just defer to your mechanic. The Powermax was considered top of the line 4 or 5 years ago but there are better alternatives on the market (for example, KCturbo and Barder). From everything I've read to get your money's worth out of the powermax the stock wheel is considered sub-standard and most recommend installing a billet wheel. Either way, the powermax requires additional tuning or you will get turbo lag. The Powermax is a larger turbo and can take or need more fuel, needs different injector timing, etc in order to spool. That results in the lag. Exhaust back pressure and EGTs will be higher trying to run stock tuning (or even your current tune) trying to spool a Powermax. In short, there are better turbo options.

On the other hand, if you are paying for the labor to clean and rebuild your stock turbo you are getting close in price to a drop-in replacement. The SS unison ring, billet wheel, and rebuild kit with thrust bearing, etc ~$500 and another $500 or $600 for labor. Although I guess your turbo is coming out anyway with the other work so maybe it won't be as much.

Drop Charlie at KCturbo an email. He will go out of his way to answer your questions. Charlie Fish [kcturbosinc@gmail.com]
https://www.facebook.com/KCTurbosinc

Time to do some homework unless you want to blindly let your mechanic steer you in the direction HE wants you to go:
http://www.dieselbombers.com/ford-power ... stock.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11654 ... turbo.html
http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles. ... ioning-r17
http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/genera ... turbo.html
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-0-Ford-Powers ... 13?vxp=mtr
http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-0l-p ... build.html


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ketcham
Second question. If I have an injector out, should I replace it or all of them with better ones? I feel my 6.0 is plenty powerful as is at 80 hp econo. Those that added more power what Advantage did you find? I have not towed yet but desire the option.

Would you replace the water pump with a billet one on such a young van since labor is free?

I desire reliability and peace of mind.

Your thoughts are appreciated.

J
At 26,000 miles it doesn't make sense to me to replace the injectors unless you are getting bigger ones that flow more fuel. But you will need fuel system upgrades unless the Airdog can support bigger injectors like a 190. Otherwise, the stock injectors may go 100,000 to 200,000 miles. But if you have one going bad, and you have the coin, you might consider replacing all of them on that side. The labor is expensive, especially on the passenger side. You have to lift the engine off the mount to gain access. Keep in mind all injectors will be rebuilds. You stated that you were really not after big HP gains so why replace the injectors? Even de-tuned, the E350 6.0 has plenty of power to tow.

But, while in there replace the standpipes and dummy plugs with the upgraded Ford OEM parts. Or, at least check to make sure your 2010 has those parts with the better O-rings. Also make sure your HPOP has the updated one-piece fitting that replaces the older style.

Injector links.
Your mechanic will charge $300 ea for a stock injector which you can source for $200 if that's an option. That will save $800 right there.
http://parts.autonationfordwhitebearlak ... 3Z9E527BRM
https://6.0injectors.com/shop/oem-ford- ... or-single/

The 6.0 water pump does not have a bad rap for failure even with the plastic impellors. That said, I replaced mine at 92,000 miles while doing my EGR delete because it's right there and accessible with the top of the engine off and the radiator out. The BPD is super nice and a worthy upgrade but you can also find an aftermarket waterpump with a steel impellor for 1/3rd the cost. http://www.dieselsite.com/20045july04-2 ... rpump.aspx

Hope that helps. Good luck!
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Old 04-05-2015, 01:08 PM   #26
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Re: Bullet proof question

Joe. You insight is very helpful. That does look like a very nice turbo. I would agree the 1.5 stage is most appropriate for our application. Heavy Van and towing. How much does your can weigh? I will email him to see if it will for the e350 housing. I like the internal parts being billet and stainless steel. Any reasons why you chose it over others? Are you placing a ceramic coated up pipe? They are available for the van application. Are you modifying anything else while in there?

J
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Old 04-05-2015, 05:05 PM   #27
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Re: Bullet proof question

My van is 10,000lb but I don't have that turbo. I only indicated that was the one I would get if I was doing a drop-in replacement. I had mine reconditioned with a KCturbo single plane billet wheel as well as doing the revised turbo feed and drain lines.

The stage 1.5 has a 63.5mm wheel. My 2005 turbo has the 56 mm wheel so the wheel is bigger. I have noticed that as advertised the turbo runs a bit cooler with the billet wheel. My EGTs are down a bit and there is faster spool up as well. It does seem to wind out a higher rpm but I'm not looking to pass anybody at 85 mph. I did not need to revise my PCM tune that Eric at Innovative Diesel wrote for my van. According to Charlie, the stage 1.5 runs fine on stock tuning and any standard custom tunes. So, if you go that route it does not "require" custom tuning like the pmax. He also said it should fit the van. The inlet and outlet of the turbo are in the exact same location as stock. It should bolt right on.
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Old 04-12-2015, 11:50 AM   #28
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Re: Bullet proof question

For those of you who have Hood Vents, I am considering fender vents with the internal enlarged cut out. I live in the Pacific NW and I wonder with all the moisture, there would be a ton of water moving through the engine compartment when the van is not in use (moving) if I were to place hood vents. This would cause rust and other internal wear on parts. What are your thoughts?

Thanks!

John.
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Old 04-12-2015, 12:14 PM   #29
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Re: Bullet proof question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ketcham
For those of you who have Hood Vents, I am considering fender vents with the internal enlarged cut out. I live in the Pacific NW and I wonder with all the moisture, there would be a ton of water moving through the engine compartment when the van is not in use (moving) if I were to place hood vents. This would cause rust and other internal wear on parts. What are your thoughts?

Thanks!

John.
It seems a non-issue by most accounts. This is on my to-do list as well. Lots of info on the forum:
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=4465
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=4465
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Old 04-12-2015, 12:32 PM   #30
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Re: Bullet proof question

Joe, if you lived where it rains all the time you would consider hood louvre in addition to fender vents?

Thanks for the link.
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