Cost to replace rocker arms and lifters

[wl1193]

I take the van to oil changers. I ask for the high mileage version. I don't know what they put in. I assumed whatever is printed on the oil cap. I will need to check the receipt. Asap

I really feel clueless since I can't answer the question.....

[carringb]

Originally Posted by wl1193

I take the van to oil changers. I ask for the high mileage version. I don't know what they put in. I assumed whatever is printed on the oil cap. I will need to check the receipt. Asap

I really feel clueless since I can't answer the question.....

Ok... this could easily be your problem.... This happened to one of my customers in her Focus. She came to me because the clatter started immediately after an oil change. She assumed they broke something. They filled her up with 10w-40 because that will quiet older pushrod motors and reduce oil consumption. It will also starve pretty much all Ford/Mazda and even Honda overhead-cam motors. To make it worse, quickie-lub places don't use filter with anti-drain back valves, so your motor takes longer to build pressure from that too.

Try some 5w-20, or maybe even 0w-20. I suspect your noise will go away.

[wl1193]

Ok. I will try that. Oil change with one of those two weights.

The clattering noise on start up is fairly recent. Maybe around the time I had last oil change. Not certain but close to that time.

The noise on the recording a few posts ago has been around much longer.

[ShuttlePilot]

I would second the idea of carringb. Being around Japanese engines it's a pretty common practice to run a high quality straight 0 weight oil (Schaffers, Amzoil, Royal Purple, Red Line) for a few hundred miles when the valves get noisy. Especially motors with regulated oil pressure to the hydraulic lifters, tiny oil passages and variable cam timing actuators. Then add the specified weight oil with no additives. Often I would find folks would start running higher viscosity oil or even worse add motor honey (STP, Lucas, ect). It's counter intuitive what the old advice used to be. On the motors I've seen this work the 0 weight oil clears up the noise quickly, but if it continues for a few hundred miles, you have a another problem. This won't heal up an engine.

-Eric

[wl1193]

I should do an oil change with 5w or 0w weight. Run that a few hundred miles and thrn do a complete oil change again switchinh back to the recommended weight?

Ttry Shaffers, Amzoil, Royal Purple or Red Line. Stay away from STP, Lucas, Penzoil?

How many qaurts do I need ?
And by an anti drain drain back valve?

What else do I need?

Just trying to make sure I follow the advice on oil change. I've never done one before...

[carringb]

5w20 is the recommended weight. If oil looks black, or its been too long since the last oil change, then running a few hundred miles with regular 5w-20 is a good idea.

If your oil *looks* clear-ish still, then go ahead and do an oil change with full synthetic, and leave it in there. All name-brand synthetics are pretty good. Unless you are going really extreme stuff, parts-store brand or whatever-is-on-sale is good enough. Certainly better than the general bulk-barrel stuff

Since you aren't quite sure how it was serviced (some quickie lube places have been caught just topping off oil instead of changing it!) doing an engine oil flush first is a good idea too. This part is easy. Add the oil detergent before changing the oil, then run it for 10 minutes before the oil change. Like I mentioned, I've had good luck with Marvel Mystery oil, but there's other good detergents as well.

Changing the oil in the E-series with gas motors is just about the easiest vehicle ever.

1) let the engine cool down at least 30 minutes so you don't burn your hands.

2) remove the oil filter (I do this first so it won't slash-down into a full oil pan)

3) Remove drain plug using a 6-point wrench. Quickie lube places love to over-torque oil pan bolts. A 6-pt socket or wrench will make you less likely to strip it.

4) Reinstall quality oil filter with drain back valve (I usually use Napa Gold... cheap and good, or Motorcraft) but I pre-fill the filter before installing, to minimize priming time the first time its started after the oil change. It holds about half a quart.

5) Re-install drain plug. Germen torque spec (*Gutentite*) but not too tight.

6) Re-fill with fresh oil.

That's it!

You can also just go to Ford. It's only $30 for an oil change, and they use Motorcraft 5w20 anyways.

[BroncoHauler]

Originally Posted by carringb

...Quickie lube places love to over-torque oil pan bolts...

A guy I used to work with took his minivan into a Quickie Lube place. After he got home, he noticed some oil drips on his driveway. Turns out the Quickie Lube place lost his oil pan drain bolt and replaced it with a cork.

I never go to Quickie Lube places. I used to once in a while, but between my co-workers story, and repeated investigations of selling customers transmissions flushes (with subsequent transmission damage), I will never set foot, or tire, in one of those places again.


Herb

[wl1193]

I did my first oil change today. I used Mobil 1 filter and synthetic oil. I also added the Marvel Mystery Oil. Wasn't too hard thanks to all esp. Carringb.

I got a second opinion on the noise from a different shop. This shop said the noise came from a worn and cracked serpentine belt and tensioner. They quoted 283 for parts and labor. Quite different from the other shop's conclusion and repair cost.....

This shop also noted the issues with the oil changer places I have been going to and recommended synthetic oil and additives.

After the oil change I let engine run for about 10 minutes and heard the familiar noise.

[rallypanam]

Originally Posted by wl1193

I did my first oil change today. I used Mobil 1 filter and synthetic oil. I also added the Marvel Mystery Oil. Wasn't too hard thanks to all esp. Carringb.

I got a second opinion on the noise from a different shop. This shop said the noise came from a worn and cracked serpentine belt and tensioner. They quoted 283 for parts and labor. Quite different from the other shop's conclusion and repair cost.....

This shop also noted the issues with the oil changer places I have been going to and recommended synthetic oil and additives.

After the oil change I let engine run for about 10 minutes and heard the familiar noise.

Well, it's easy enough to take a look at the belt and tensioner, and if it needs doing, it needs doing. And then go from there.

[rallypanam]

P.S. Congrats on the first oil change!