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Old 03-26-2017, 08:28 PM   #1
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Location: Sacramento Delta, CA
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Crank No Start Spark Testing the 5.8L/351

On my 1995 Bronco 5.8L engine with EEC-IV, a while ago I started getting a crank no start with the SPOUT jumper in place. So I drove it with the SPOUT jumper out. Then recently it missed, stumbled and died on the road. And it would crank but wouldn't restart even with the SPOUT jumper out.

So today, I started methodically testing the ignition system for spark working from the plugs up towards the computer, following this EXCELLENT step-by-step tutorial:

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford/4.9L-5.0L-5.8L/ignition-module-tests-1

Long story short, you can retrace my steps in the easyautodiagnostics testing decision tree to find out how I got all the way to:

TEST 7: Testing The Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Signal

And although I hate puncturing any wire, I did puncture wire 6 coming out of the ICM and got no PIP signal. So, the easyautodiagnostics author recommends replacing the distributor because there is no PIP signal coming out of the ICM.

The way I understand it from RLA2005 (over at ford-trucks.com) and from staring at the attached schematic for hours, is that the stator in the distributor creates a hall effect when spinning (acting as a cam position sensor) and sends a signal to the ICM to create the Profile Ignition Pickup signal nd to the PCM to set the base 10 degree spark ignition timing. (The PCM then sends out another signal(s) through the SPOUT and IDM wires to the coil to advance timing in response to a whole lot of sensors which send signals to the PCM - like rpm, altitude, etc.)

Anyway, I had no signal in wire 6 coming out of the ICM. So I had no PIP at all. Which means that even if the coil is studly, it isn't going to send out voltage because it isn't receiving any signal to send out voltage. So, no spark, no start.

Or did I have a PIP signal? There is no radioshack near me, so instead of fabricating and using the LED test light the easyautodiagnostics author recommends (radioshack part number 276-0270) I used an INNOVA 3420 Smart Test Light Circuit Tester Electrical Voltage Led Auto Check. And I got no flashing light indicating the flashing PIP signal when I used it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/INNOVA-3420-Smart-Test-Light-Circuit-Tester-Electrical-Voltage-Led-Auto-Check-/172394764567?hash=item2823875917:g:w84AAOSw0OBYKc2 t

Any thoughts on using the Innova 3420 to test PIP?

Any recommendations on any other low voltage LED test light/circuit tester for this purpose? All you brainyack computer guys and gals should know of a great little LED computer circuit test light?

Also, any suggestions for a product I can use to coat, cover up or otherwise heal the insulation over the bare wire where I punctured wire number 6?

Finally, any additions to, deletions from comments, or other suggestions for testing my issue?
Attached Files
File Type: pdf IGNITION SYSTEM & ENGINE CONTROLS.pdf (595.2 KB, 1 views)
__________________
2002 E350 ext.; 160K; 7.3L; 4R100 (w/4x4 deep pan & filter); 4x4 conv. w/2007 F250/F350 coil frnt axle (oppos. dual Bilstein press. shocks cured DW) diff chg from 3.55 to 3.73 (bad!); BW1356 t.c. (bad!); LT265/70R17/E Michelin LTX M/S2; Engel MT60 Combi Fridge-Freezer; 4 BP 380J pv panels; Auragen 5kw AC gen. in top alt. position; Webasto Dual-Top; Voyager top. 1995 5.8L EB Bronco, bone stock.
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