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Old 08-11-2018, 12:35 AM   #1
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DIY Remote Engine Oil Cooler

Disclosure: I do not have overheating problems, my deltas are 7 or less. This cooler will be in addition to factory 6.0 cooler. This will be supplement for mountain climbing/ towing and Arizona > 110 F days. Hoping to keep the temps around 180 - 200 always. Most importantly it will give me a new project

Planning on a DIY engine oil cooler, Picked up this cool looking piece of art. It will replace the factory oil filter. To adapt it to factory plumbing I have Amsoil dual bypass filter's adapter, that plugs into the factory hard lines. Have a few questions though if any of the diesel pros can help me out here. Below are my 2 concerns:
  1. Pressure drop- Would there be considerable loss of pressure? The filter unit has -12AN openings, I will be putting in a 50,000 BTU cooler in series which will be controlled by Oil filter housings thermostat. Planning to keep the hoses short and install the oil cooler under the van with a fan in a safe location. I'm assuming there won't be any considerable pressure loss as BPD also has similar plumbing involved but from a different location. What do you guys think?
  2. Filteration Requirement & Flow Rate - I believe the factory spec flow rate is 18gpm, need to check the micron rating 8? I guess I can find a spin on filter that satisfies both of those criterias. Any concerns around this that I haven't though about?

All questions, comments and corrections welcome
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Old 08-11-2018, 06:55 AM   #2
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Watching. That is a nice bling. Too bad it will be hidden.
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Old 08-11-2018, 02:17 PM   #3
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Thatís a nice looking piece of art! My oil filter currently ďslightlyĒ hits my front driveline. Iím really unnerved by it. It left sportsmobile that way but I want to fix it. Iím watching this as my possible copycat solution. I canít wait to see how you work it out.
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Old 08-11-2018, 03:25 PM   #4
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Can't offer any answers myself, but have a lot of interest in your resolve - take a lot of pictures! I'm sure you'll end out with quite a few monitoring your progress.
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Old 08-12-2018, 09:31 AM   #5
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I've not worked on a 6.0 but I've plumbed several race oil systems. The size sounds about right, the hoses shouldn't cause pressure drop (-12AN is 12/16 = 3/4" ID). Take a look at the Amsoil port sizes for comparison. You can always measure it by plumbing in (2) mechanical oil pressure gauges, one at the oil output port on the Amsoil filter relocation block, the other on the return side, check it at higher rpms where you'd expect to see the more differential. Looks like a good quality piece, what motorsports genre is it from, NASCAR or road racing? Sized for a 8500rpm V8 oiling system? Anyhow, the built in oil thermostat is a good thing to have on a Diesel.



No brass hose barb and adapters, hose clamps, and black hose, you'll want to stay with leak tight and reliable AN plumbing. Use 'bent tube' 90deg fittings where a 90 is needed, and like you said short hose runs to limit pressure loss (from both your oiling system and you wallet). Know that you're going to spend $700 on hose, -12 fittings, and a quality cooler. Buy the good stuff, I like Earl's hose and their fittings, Summit and Jeg's sell their stuff mail order. Jeg's house brand is probably ok, but I've never used it. But hose that's compatible with your fittings, I try to stay with the same brand, or you'll curse the project during the hose to fitting assembly process. For the cooler, I'd be looking at the Setrab flat plate style, new, always new coolers, no used NASCAR ebay coolers, you never know if the last engine shit the bed and deposited trash in the cooler's internal nooks and crannies, then some 4th hand seller dumped it on ebay. The Chinese knock off flat plate coolers (popular with the Sand Rail crowd) have failures at the solder joints from the low temperature solder they sometimes use. Stay away from EMPI coolers. You will want to use some cushioned rubber mounts for the cooler, so vibration doesn't crack the solder joints during the next 200k miles, but you can gin something up.



Sounds like a fun project, good luck!
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Old 08-12-2018, 10:44 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vandiesel View Post
Thatís a nice looking piece of art! My oil filter currently ďslightlyĒ hits my front driveline. Iím really unnerved by it. It left sportsmobile that way but I want to fix it. Iím watching this as my possible copycat solution. I canít wait to see how you work it out.

If you just want to move your oil filter for clearance, Ujoint sells a oil filter relocation kit specifically for the 6.0's. It clocks the oil filter 90 degrees to clear the front driveshaft.


It's on his leaf suspension page, almost all the way to the bottom of the page.
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Old 08-12-2018, 04:57 PM   #7
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Thank you those are some great pointers and yes only quality parts. The filter housing is made for NASCAR.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TomsBeast View Post
I've not worked on a 6.0 but I've plumbed several race oil systems. The size sounds about right, the hoses shouldn't cause pressure drop (-12AN is 12/16 = 3/4" ID). Take a look at the Amsoil port sizes for comparison. You can always measure it by plumbing in (2) mechanical oil pressure gauges, one at the oil output port on the Amsoil filter relocation block, the other on the return side, check it at higher rpms where you'd expect to see the more differential. Looks like a good quality piece, what motorsports genre is it from, NASCAR or road racing? Sized for a 8500rpm V8 oiling system? Anyhow, the built in oil thermostat is a good thing to have on a Diesel.



No brass hose barb and adapters, hose clamps, and black hose, you'll want to stay with leak tight and reliable AN plumbing. Use 'bent tube' 90deg fittings where a 90 is needed, and like you said short hose runs to limit pressure loss (from both your oiling system and you wallet). Know that you're going to spend $700 on hose, -12 fittings, and a quality cooler. Buy the good stuff, I like Earl's hose and their fittings, Summit and Jeg's sell their stuff mail order. Jeg's house brand is probably ok, but I've never used it. But hose that's compatible with your fittings, I try to stay with the same brand, or you'll curse the project during the hose to fitting assembly process. For the cooler, I'd be looking at the Setrab flat plate style, new, always new coolers, no used NASCAR ebay coolers, you never know if the last engine shit the bed and deposited trash in the cooler's internal nooks and crannies, then some 4th hand seller dumped it on ebay. The Chinese knock off flat plate coolers (popular with the Sand Rail crowd) have failures at the solder joints from the low temperature solder they sometimes use. Stay away from EMPI coolers. You will want to use some cushioned rubber mounts for the cooler, so vibration doesn't crack the solder joints during the next 200k miles, but you can gin something up.



Sounds like a fun project, good luck!
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