Do I need a new radiator or is this an easy fix?

[JWA]

John the heater cores in E-Series from the E150 up through the E550 cutaways use the same part----there's no real advantage of a E350 over E150 etc etc. The only real difference might be in the tubing sizes---my earlier E250 had one each 5/8" and 3/4" OD sizes, later E250 both use 5/8" OD---5.4 motors in both vans. Using the same core across the E-Series line makes since as the stock cabins don't change nor do the heater boxes.

My concern with auxiliary cores mounted close to the tires would be punctures from road debris etc. While maybe not too likely its one more thing to go wrong at the worst of times. Just my idea mind you----your own cooling issues might negate those thoughts.

[daveb]

I've read this PDF from FICM repair.

http://www.ficmrepair.com/pdf/Powerstro ... h_v1-0.pdf


When they did my rebuild everything was flushed (not sure about the heater core) and they added the coolant filter. They also suggested a coolant additive that is supposed to keep corrosion down but from what I've read, some additive should not be used is a coolant filter is added. SO I'm not too sure on it even though they suggested to put it in. The shop said it was a waste of money to install a new radiator because mine was so new (installed in 2011-2012 IIRC) but I'm on the fence now after reading this thread. Durability comes into play even if the all aluminum radiator does not add any additional cooling.

I will say that I saw a huge drop in water & transmission temps after installing the hood louvers. I also believe this has to do with air pressure being able to escape in the engine bay allowing more flow through the radiator but I have no proof of that. My billet grill is different than most and has large slats that (IMO) allow more or the same flow as a stock grill. It's the Aluminess bumper itself that seems to limit flow. I'm looking at doing what Tapatio did with the lower air scoop. Still a couple thing I worry about is if air is directed up into the engine bay will this cause more air pressure within the engine bay and cause less flow through the radiator? I was told that an air dam (not a scoop) disrupts flow under the vehicle and allows better flow through the radiator and exit below the engine but I don't know if that is true. Any thoughts on this?

[JoeH]

I caution against doing a flush with harsh chemicals. You might end up plugging the oil cooler. Or, do it if you know the time is coming and your going to be in there anyway.

I did a simple water flush when I have my oil cooler and EGR delete done. It was injectors that did my engine in. Not Ford Gold or the ELC I changed to.

Anyhow, some interesting opinions in this thread on whether to use restore or other chemicals as part of the flush. http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f23 ... er-486969/

ELC recommendations. http://www.powerstrokenation.com/forums ... 6-0-a.html

[daveb]

Didn't matter in my case...new everything including the oil cooler. Also what's funny is both shops suggest sticking with the Ford Gold. I'll just replace it more often...been doing that since the van was new.

[jwintersteller]

So I got the new radiator installed today. It was quite a project. I'm sure it will come as no surprise that it did not go as easy as the Youtube posts of the same job on the F Series. The main differences is that a lot more things have to be pulled out (including the air filter box and the fuse box) and the radiator has to come out and be put in with the intercooler attached. This was not easy for me because I was doing this alone. These two things together are a bit heavy and pulling them out of a 4X4 van does not help.
But most importantly, the Performance Radiator is a perfect fit. Every thing was where it needed to be, all bolt holes, shroud brackets and hose fittings are a perfect match to the OEM radiator.











I did not do the coolant system flush because I changed the coolant a few weeks ago when I replaced a leaking coolant line that goes over the top of the engine to the heater core.
I agree with JoeH about not doing a chemical flush. There is a very good family run radiator shop in my town that has been in business for generations. I've used then many times over the years and when I took my SMB to him a year or so ago for a flush, he told me that I shouldn't ever do anything more then a water flush. And he suggested not doing a flush at all. He thought with the coolant filter and more frequent then normal coolant changes, I would be better off then flushing the system. I always cut open the used coolant filters to see what it catches and I've never found any debris, sand or sediment.

Cheers,
John

[Sheriffdoug]

Hi John,
Glad to see install of Performance Radiator went well. John at Zylstra Automotive(Ford Econoline specialists), Visalia, was very impressed that the new all aluminium radiator, that I purchased online, aligned and hoses fitted perfectly, too.
The Nation Orange 200amp Alternator fitted perfectly as well, even though it's not that visible.


Cheers Doug.

[daveb]

Good to know it was a perfect match. I plan to order one soon.

[JWA]

Originally Posted by Sheriffdoug

o.
The Nation Orange 200amp Alternator fitted perfectly as well, even though it's not that visible.

Cheers Doug.

Its a shame such a good looking part can't be seen so easily!

[coolfeet]

@jwintersteller,

What are the results of your new Performance Radiator? I may need a new radiator and this seems a good choice. I called BDP today and they verified that Performance makes their radiators.

[Sheriffdoug]

I won't have my SMB in Australia for 4-5 months. On way to NZ for Right Hand Drive conversion. Takes 6-8 weeks. Then on a ship to Sydney, for the final drive home to Perth, 4100 kilometers. Looking forward to it.