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03-16-2010, 08:41 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 351
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Ford 5.8 engine help (1995)-need to ID part
I broke a bolt off trying to remove a part today. I haven't seriously worked on a car since high school and I'd appreciate some help identifying parts (Haynes is worthless and shop manuals are still in transit from ebay).
The bolt I broke is one of the two you see on the attached pic. On either side of the green antifreeze. I'm hoping the thermostat is under there. What is the name of the part the bolt goes into? The coolant manifold? (not my pic-got it off internet)
http://www.autoclinix.com/Ford/Pic4%20%28labels%29.jpg
Any advances in broken bolt removal in the last 20 years? I am soaking with a solvent tonight. Try and remove with a bolt removal bit? Drill out? Tap a new hole next to the hole and just use that?
Any advice is good advice.
Thanks
Tom
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Tom
Austin, Texas
1995 SMB E250
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03-16-2010, 09:25 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Parker, CO
Posts: 7,643
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Re: Ford 5.8 engine help (1995)-need to ID part
Tapping is not an option- nothing will ever fit back right and it might not be mated- speaking of which be careful not to destroy the surface of either piece where they fit together.
If the head broke off, can you not remove the other bolt, then the cover, then have the shaft to work with instead of drilling? That would probably be the route I would take, even to the point of destroying the cover, as that is probably easier to replace.
Incidentally, consider a tow to a mechanic... it might be less expensive in the long run.
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it was good to be back
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03-16-2010, 09:44 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 351
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Re: Ford 5.8 engine help (1995)-need to ID part
Thanks. It broke off pretty deep. I got the other bolt to move and am letting it soak some more before I attempt to finish removal.
I've got the think partially taken apart. Already replaced the plugs, wires, distributor, cap, and taken out the heater core (it was leaking). It's a mess to hand off to a mechanic. And I bet it would be pretty pricey.
The van is a 1995 with 100k. In addition to fixing the heater core, I am performing some "routine" maintenance. I figured, why not the thermostat and possibly the water pump, since I am in there already.
Any thoughts on how a pro would remove the bolt shaft?
Tom
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Tom
Austin, Texas
1995 SMB E250
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03-16-2010, 10:12 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Corvallis, OR
Posts: 5,300
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Re: Ford 5.8 engine help (1995)-need to ID part
I think the name of that part is actually the thermostat housing. And yes, I have have broken off that bolt too!
We drilled out the center of the bolt, the used a bolt extractor bit (aka easy-out). Pretty sure they've been doing it this way for a long time. Also, take a punch or a rod, and give the broken bolt a good hard smack to break it loose.
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2000 E450 dually V10 wagon
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03-17-2010, 09:48 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Blairsden, CA (when not on the road)
Posts: 1,109
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Re: Ford 5.8 engine help (1995)-need to ID part
I agree with everything said above. Be careful when using the easy-out. They are made of hardened steel (like a drill bit) and with too much pressure they will break. If it breaks down in the bolt where you drilled the hole, the party's over. Can't be drilled out as it's too hard. If you have a torch, even a propane one, you can apply heat to the block where the bolt threads are. The expansion from the heat will help loosen it up. That along with lots of solvent and the aforementioned smack with a punch should do it. Just don't break off that easy-out. Doing that pretty much reduces your options to zero....
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Scatter
You can be anything you want on the Internet,
it amazes me that so many choose stupid....
2007 RB50, 6.0
K1WGB
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03-17-2010, 03:42 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 351
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Re: Ford 5.8 engine help (1995)-need to ID part
I've been working on this all day. Just saw this. Good advice about the EZ out. I broke it off about 10:30. Been trying to drill into the back of it since then. Demoralized. Even the diamond dremel didn't work.
Think the shop can work a miracle or is it really bad news. The drills are barely touching it.
__________________
Tom
Austin, Texas
1995 SMB E250
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03-17-2010, 04:46 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Washington - Ridgefield
Posts: 4,728
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Re: Ford 5.8 engine help (1995)-need to ID part
Is there any of the old bolt sticking out after you removed the t-stat housing?
If there is, you may be able to weld a bolt onto it and use that to unscrew it.
If not, you probably will have to remove the manifold or whatever it bolts into and head to a machine shop. A good carbide cutter will go into the ez-out, but everything must be held solid - no hand drilling allowed. Using a left hand cutter (drill bit or endmill) will probably catch the bolt and unscrew it after you get in 1/2" or so.
Possibly (not likely) you may be able to remove the radiator, water pump and anything else that might be in the way and use a magnetic drill to drill the bolt out in place. Locate the mag drill on the front of the block and drill it out as above, but in place.
I'll bet on the machine shop.
Mike
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Alaska to Key West, Labrador and more
Prostate cancer survivor. See Thread Prostate cancer and Sportsmobiles
2015 VW GTI 2020 Fiat 124 Spider
2012 E250 Hitop camper
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03-17-2010, 07:16 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Port Angeles Wa And Jackson Hole Wy.
Posts: 1,284
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Re: Ford 5.8 engine help (1995)-need to ID part
I have used reversed drill bits on Harley Davidson heads in the past and they work great. either way your shop would be able to do it just be careful not to bugger it up to bad.
Good luck
Ron
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Going where most dont
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03-18-2010, 01:24 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Corvallis, OR
Posts: 5,300
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Re: Ford 5.8 engine help (1995)-need to ID part
For that kind of task, I have found Cobalt drill bits (NAPA) to be especially effective.
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2000 E450 dually V10 wagon
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03-18-2010, 06:08 PM
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#10
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 19
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Re: Ford 5.8 engine help (1995)-need to ID part
Is this the upper passenger-side bolt or the lower driver-side bolt?
If you absolutely can not get the bolt out, it would be worth looking into having a mobile welder come out and help deal with it. You can grind out the aluminum in a V to expose the bolt, which can then be pulled out. The area can then be built back up with aluminum and tapped. This would be fairly easy with the upper bolt, but the lower bolt will be more of a challenge. This process would certainly beat having to pull the lower manifold, which requires removing the upper intake & throttle body, fuel rail, plug wires and distributor, vacuum lines, coil, etc. Doable, but not the best way to spend a weekend.
If you do end up pulling the manifold, I would just replace it.
Good luck!
Dave
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