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Old 06-26-2010, 06:09 PM   #1
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Ford factory air.

We've never been happy with the factory air conditioning in our 2005 E350.
Two failures of high pressure hoses.
When towing in the moutains at 80' ambient temperature, one might do better to roll down the windows.
Even now here in the city, one has great air on first start up, however if You park it for even a few minutes it blows HOT air.
I've complained to several dealers who "test it" and say it works fine.
I suspect that their idea of a test is to start the van, let it idle, and place a thermometer in front of an A/C outlet.
I read somewhere about an "automatic heater core bypass" out of an older model Ford, [Maverick?] that supposedly bypasses the heater core automaticatically when MAX AIR is selected.
I've also heard from several professional truckers that the problem is an undersized radiator core.
There's got to be a solution somewhere.
Any Ideas?????
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Old 06-26-2010, 07:27 PM   #2
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Re: Ford factory air.

Quote:
I read somewhere about an "automatic heater core bypass" out of an older model Ford, [Maverick?] that supposedly bypasses the heater core automatically when MAX AIR is selected.
This should do the trick. http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?Pag ... ProdID=473


Philip
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Old 06-27-2010, 11:01 AM   #3
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Re: Ford factory air.

Ken do you have a scan gauge? I'm having some trouble with my AC since Ford worked on my engine. I do have the 6.0 PSD so it might not apply to you but I'm noticing when the radiator reaches about 222, the engine fan kicks up and the AC gets very warm. Even if it's 60 degrees outside the AC will pump out an air temperature of about 85 so something is wrong. I had SMB check the Air's pressure and was told it was OK but with the new style Freon used today, it requires the system to be evacuated and then the proper ammount put back in. I had a friend do it and he said you can't tell by gauges anymore. He put in the correct ammount and it started to work correctly for a couple of weeks but now when the engine fan kicks up, I loose cooling. I might have a slow leak or I'm wondering if there is an electric auxillery fan (if there is one) is not coming on. Air cycling from cold to cool generally indicates low freon. If you constantly get cool air instead of it cycling, you have a problem. That kit can help but you should still be getting cold air from the vents especially if the engine hasen't warmed up and it's reasonally cool outside once you first start driving.
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Old 06-27-2010, 03:46 PM   #4
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Re: Ford factory air.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shellback
Quote:
I read somewhere about an "automatic heater core bypass" out of an older model Ford, [Maverick?] that supposedly bypasses the heater core automatically when MAX AIR is selected.
This should do the trick. http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?Pag ... ProdID=473


Philip
Thanx Philip;
I'll discuss this with my mechanic.
Thinking further, I recall a product called "Desert Super Cooler", which sprayed water over the radiator, air conditioner, and transmission coolers, but when I called, their phone had been disconnected.
Another idea was to add another auxilliary cooling fan, or have the computer reprogrammed for more aggressive cooling.
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Old 06-27-2010, 04:00 PM   #5
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Re: Ford factory air.

Quote:
Originally Posted by daveb
Ken do you have a scan gauge? I'm having some trouble with my AC since Ford worked on my engine. I do have the 6.0 PSD so it might not apply to you but I'm noticing when the radiator reaches about 222, the engine fan kicks up and the AC gets very warm. Even if it's 60 degrees outside the AC will pump out an air temperature of about 85 so something is wrong. I had SMB check the Air's pressure and was told it was OK but with the new style Freon used today, it requires the system to be evacuated and then the proper ammount put back in. I had a friend do it and he said you can't tell by gauges anymore. He put in the correct ammount and it started to work correctly for a couple of weeks but now when the engine fan kicks up, I loose cooling. I might have a slow leak or I'm wondering if there is an electric auxillery fan (if there is one) is not coming on. Air cycling from cold to cool generally indicates low freon. If you constantly get cool air instead of it cycling, you have a problem. That kit can help but you should still be getting cold air from the vents especially if the engine hasen't warmed up and it's reasonally cool outside once you first start driving.
Dave;
I do not have a scangage.
As mentioned, when I first start up [cold] and run a mile or so, or a few blocks in the city it cools fine.
However if I stop for a few minutes and restart, it pumps HEAT.
While towing through mountains, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, California, last winter in {80' ambient}, we did best with the windows down.
Thinking further, I recall a product called "Desert Super Cooler", which sprayed water over the radiator, air conditioner, and transmission coolers, but when I called, their phone had been disconnected.
Another idea was to add another auxilliary cooling fan, or have the computer reprogrammed for more aggressive cooling.
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Old 06-27-2010, 08:25 PM   #6
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Re: Ford factory air.

Aftermarket bumper?

If yes, this is likely why. If you look at a a stock bumper, its lower valence sticks down to prevent air from short-cycling from the engine bay back to the front of the radiator.

My AC performance decreased at idle after installing my Buckstop. I just fast-idle now, but my ultimate solution will be to add a rubber strip along the bottom of the bumper.
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Old 06-30-2010, 04:37 AM   #7
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Re: Ford factory air.

Quote:
Originally Posted by carringb
Aftermarket bumper?

If yes, this is likely why. If you look at a a stock bumper, its lower valence sticks down to prevent air from short-cycling from the engine bay back to the front of the radiator.

My AC performance decreased at idle after installing my Buckstop. I just fast-idle now, but my ultimate solution will be to add a rubber strip along the bottom of the bumper.

B;
With the exception of digital gauges, and rear sway bar, my SMB is factory stock.
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Old 06-30-2010, 01:23 PM   #8
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Re: Ford factory air.

Re-reading your post.... I bet the heater bypass valve will do the trick. The E-series certainly does not have an undersized radiator. But, when putting the HVAC selector to VENT, it's pretty clear the air coming through is warmer than ambient.
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Old 06-30-2010, 01:46 PM   #9
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Re: Ford factory air.

I've yet to hear from most owners with Aluminess Bumpers having problems with their stock AC. I might be wrong but think you have something else going on. I just talked with an AC guy who told me that it sounds like my problem is the vent door opening partially due to something failing such as a vacuum leak or control problem. After Ford pulled the engine my vent switches to the lower ducts very slow. Maybe you have something keeping the defrost door from closing completely.
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Old 06-30-2010, 05:13 PM   #10
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Re: Ford factory air.

Thanx Guys;
I've sent requests for ideas to several Ford dealers in the Toledo area.
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