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Old 11-14-2013, 12:21 PM   #1
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Ford v10 coils

I have a few that need to be replaced and I see there are several brands available. What brands have you guys had good or bad experience with? Prices are all over the place so I'm wondering what route to go. Have read good reviews on ACdelco as well as the cheap ebay ones.
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Old 11-14-2013, 01:23 PM   #2
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Re: Ford v10 coils

Most of the cheap ones have a high failure rate.

I have had 1 fail, and another I pulled because it needed a new boot so its a spare. I replaced them with Napa Milaege Plus coils. I think that maybe was not a good move. I can tell that emissions are slightly worse now with the new coils than they were with the originals, which means there is a slight cylinder imbalance. While I am at the regular tune up interval, the plugs are still at their minimum gap spec. I suspect the worse emissions and fuel economy are a combination of worn factory coils and weak Napa coils.

So... with all that.... since I'm over 365,000 miles I decided to go all new. I ordered Denso coils because they are a very reputable electronics manufacture (they are Toyota OEM) but they were quite a bit less expensive than Motorcrafts. Since I'll be in there, I'll go ahead and do the plugs early. Of course, I can't give a review on them yet, and I'll be stuck at work this saturday so I'm not sure when they'll go in. I'm hoping the Densos are as good as the motorcraft. Napa Echilins seem to be as good also but they actually cost more (I used those in our Escape).

FWIW - I run AutoLite Irridium plugs because the Predator programmer causes Platinum plugs to wear out by 60,000 miles.
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Old 11-14-2013, 02:30 PM   #3
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Re: Ford v10 coils

Thanks for the info! 365,000 is pretty strong!

Interesting about the Denso coils. I work on BMW's and they ran Denso coils for a while in a few models and they were always going bad! I guess it's probably one of those things where you ask 10 different people and will get 10 different answers!

I'm feeling pretty poor right now and may try going the cheap route on the coils and see what happens.
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Old 11-16-2013, 05:24 AM   #4
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Re: Ford v10 coils

I paid $72 for just one NAPA/Echline to fit my '03 E250 5.4 motor; was in a hurry, didn't have time to shop around. Having once swapped 2000 E250 5.4 OEM Motorcraft COP's for Granatelli's that fail or have failed during colder weather never again will I go the cheap route.

With a bit of smart shopping Motorcraft brand can be had for less than $50 each. Rock Auto, Amazon, heck even some of the Ford dealers have good prices. In fact here's a link to what seems a great deal: http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-NEW-Ford-8...ddc76e&vxp=mtr (Seller says they're bulk packed which means a set of 10 should have similar savings.)

Keep in mind the model year should be considered only because between '00 and '03 the COP terminal size changed, won't allow some to interchange due this difference. Like this:





First image is '00 OEM, second '03 OEM.

Hope this helps!
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Old 08-19-2018, 12:55 PM   #5
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Reviving an old thread to help me choose whether:
- to replace all my coils (and not just boots) when I get the plugs changed (my current thinking is to replace all coils now);
- to use ACDelco coils or spend a few $100s more for Motorcraft coils.

Muy Bonita is at 93k miles, 2000 E-350 V10, and she had at least a couple years of just sitting prior to my ownership at 75k, fwiw).

Not doing my own engine repairs (and often finding myself away from a home-base for weeks, or in remote places, or crossing the country in a fell swoop at varying paces), I can't see how replacing each coil as they go would be a time/cost-effective approach, but I'm here to learn ;-) Would a prudent choice depend on inspecting the current coils, or can't you really tell from inspection how much life is left in them? Would it make any financial sense to replace the plugs/boots now, and preventively schedule a coil replacement in the future, a TBD number of miles down the road?

Duke's Truck Repair in Seattle, where I'd like to take my rig for plugs & coils, etc, has suggested ACDelco as their recommended aftermarket supplier. (I'm still waiting on the office call-back with a quote for MC vs ACD coils, and the mechanics' thoughts on the longevity/value comparison - do you lose anything w/ACD coils?). Plugs aren't the expensive part, so Motorcraft for me (although if anyone thinks I should choose a fancier version than standard platinum, I'm interested to hear).

Thanks all!
anne
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Old 08-20-2018, 05:16 AM   #6
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Without the benefit of an automotive type oscilliscope that can do a deep analysis of a running vehicles ignition system in operation there's no real life expectancy prediction of COP's. If your 2000 V10 is still running on the factory original COP's honestly there's no real reason to pre-emptively change them---I'm also running a 2000 E250 w/5.4 motor on 6 of its factory original COP's, current mileage is just over 285K miles.

Worst case scenario if a COP fails it won't disable you, you'd be able to drive to a close-by shop almost anywhere for a replacement. The PCM disables the fuel supply to the cylinder of a failed COP so in the short term you'd not damage your engine.

AC-Delco COP's haven't received an overwhelming amount of negative reviews which suggests they're minimally okay to use. Denso's receive high ratings from those who use them; I'd not be scared to run them if I couldn't find MotorCraft in a hurry. That's just my personal choice but as I mention earlier here I'm running a few of the NAPA COP's costing me about $50 each and they've been fine for a few years now.

Check with your shop whether their installed ACD COP's come with any sort of time or mileage guarantee----to me that would suggest how much they really trust them.

Plug boots are another story IMHO, using a better brand will almost always be the wiser choice. Too often issues thought to be plug or COP-related are traced back to the boot so it pays to use the best quality the budget allows. MotorCraft or Standard Motor Products are good choices, careful shopping can find them for about $5-6 each.

Plug-wise MotorCraft and/or Autolite's are good choices----because our E-Series engines are the 2 valve versions there's no huge benefit to running some high-tech overly-hyped brand or type. I do change mine @ about 50K miles, use nickel-based anti-seize on the plug threads and torque down to 23 ft/lbs using a torque wrench. Not a single plug I've ever changed using these steps has shown any sign of seizing up in the cylinder head or loosening up over the service interval.

Those are my two bits of experience and advice, hope its helpful.
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Old 08-20-2018, 07:48 AM   #7
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Without the benefit of an automotive type oscilliscope...
I think you're showing your age there.

I spent many an hour in front of an oscilloscope screen myself in engineering labs.


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Old 08-20-2018, 07:59 AM   #8
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Anne, great advice from JWA above. Most people waste money on coils they don't need, but at the same time they gain peace of mind, which can be priceless depending on the individual.

My recommendation is to change your plugs and buy 1 or 2 good quality coils AND ALL coil boots. The boots are just a couple bucks apiece. Buy a large tube of dielectric grease and then change, or have changed, all plugs and boots (not the coils themselves) using plenty of dielectric grease on the boots. Carry the spare coils in your van should you ever need them. Changing a coil on the road is not a big deal and something any mechanic has done many times, even the lousy ones you will have no choice but to use at the most inopportune time.

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Old 08-20-2018, 03:56 PM   #9
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JWA, Herb ;-), and Eric,

Thanks for taking the time to comment on a topic I know has been beaten to death in many places (read 'em all, sussed out the credible consensus, and still wasn't certain on a couple points).

I will follow JWA's eric-reinforced recommendation and just travel with a couple MC coils rather than messing with them now.

Happy to be getting the plugs done at a decent shop next week. Is it worth me asking whether they'll use nickel-based anti-sieze and @ what torque on the plugs and whether they'll put dialectic grease on the boots? Or would that be superfluous/annoying at a good shop? I will be asking if any of the boots were stuck/gunky to help determine if I have that issue with water leak through the gap in the gasket (?) at the base of the windshield I read about somewhere.

Many thanks!
anne
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Old 08-20-2018, 04:45 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWA View Post
Without the benefit of an automotive type oscilliscope...
Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoHauler View Post
I think you're showing your age there.

I spent many an hour in front of an oscilloscope screen myself in engineering labs.


Herb
Those oscilloscopes are still impressive bits of "dinosaur technology" !

I'm not (quite) old enough to have been "brought up on" those oscilloscopes, but two years ago I was the very-grateful recipient of an exhaustive ignition-system analysis (on my current '95 E250 SMB 5.8L) by a skilled operator of one of those devices.

No shop in the area had one, but a seasoned automotive tech veteran (who teaches on-campus at the OEM I work for) has one in his personal collection....and as a favor he brought it over to my house to try to figure out why I was getting an unsolvable/nearly undrivable rough idle.

One of those (and an old-school fuel-pressure gauge and vacuum gauge) are still some powerful analytical tools.

Fascinating to see the van's ignition pulse waveform displayed on the forest-green monochromatic cathode-ray screen....turned out (against the opinion of all the area shops) that my ignition system was actually A-OK, but there was a problem with the EGR control system. (DPFE had gone bad.)

Wish this kind of down-and-dirty / sharply-intrinsic knowledge base (and analytical tools) were still more prevalent. Without that godsend of a good-buddy intervention with that oscilliscope, I may have spent untold more months attempting to fix a nonexistent ignition issue.

#whenmechanicsreallyknewtheirstuff
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