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Old 11-20-2019, 03:49 PM   #1
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Looking at van with following problem history

I am looking at purchasing a 2006 Ford RB E350 Diesel with 90,000miles, and after numerous conversations with the owner, he said the following:


"About a half year after I bought the van I had some problems. Long story short I brought it in and they had to remove and install a new IPR valve and replace the stand pipe on both the passenger and drivers side. This involved tearing the motor apart. This was supposed to be done when they do the bullet proofing but was not. The mechanic said it is a tough job and is probably why it wasn't done at the time of bullet proofing. Knowing that this was not done he checked everything else out and said that whoever did the bullet proofing did everything else propper and did a good job."


I am not a diesel mechanic, but I have heard on the 6.0l that any problems with overheating heating or injectors can trash the engine. Is the above problem something that can easily be verified that no damage was done to the engine or you feel I should steer clear of the van?
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Old 11-20-2019, 06:10 PM   #2
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If there is a problem with the stand pipes of dummy plugs then the engine will falter at idle/idle really roughly once it is warm. If its bad enough it won't crank after its been warmed up as well. With a 6.0 I'd make sure and drive it enough to get it warmed up, like all the way up to operating temp. And then I'd let it idle.



From what I know (and I'm no expert) but the IPR and stand pipe issues aren't necessarily related to overheating. They are just things that can happy particularly with certain years. I'd also make sure the dummy plugs were addressed when they did the stand pipes if that was needed.
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Old 11-21-2019, 10:47 AM   #3
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Bullet proofing is a term that can have different meanings to different people, and may not have been a complete job. A complete bulletproofing job involves several different steps and parts. Can you get a copy of the invoices for the parts and labor to install them? That should tell you the extent of the (very expensive) work that was done. 6.0's are usually reliable once all the known issues are taken care of.
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Old 11-21-2019, 12:58 PM   #4
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Greetings and welcome Belize,

I will offer you what I tell folks that ask me about a "great truck that has a 6.0" and should they buy it. Since I'm the guy in my circle of family and friends that has a 6.0 I get asked kind of regularly about a truck they found for sale.

First, I will take a step farther than Arctic Traveler and say, completely forget about the term Bulletproof. Unless someone is referring to the aftermarket parts company Bullet Proof Diesel in Mesa Arizona, the term Bullet Proof is a marketing term like "All Natural". It will be unnecessary with my recommendation anyway.

I say buy the van/truck with the PSD 6.0 only if you and the vehicle meet either of these two options.

Option One :
The seller provides a complete list of receipts and documents laying out all of the reliability improvements done to the motor. This will probably be a binder or small file cabinet. Make a list all the shops that did the work and verify on the internet by 6.0 owners that they are widely known to be good at 6.0's. This can be done with no mechanical knowledge and through forums like this one and ford truck forums. Then take that file to someone educated (which can be you if you invest the time) in All of the parts and work necessary to make a 6.0 reliable and verify that All improvement were completed. Add up the costs the seller/previous owners paid. It should equal at least 8k$ up to 14$ to further confirm All improvements were completed. If all that can be verified on that vehicle then go ahead and consider buying it. However, and heads up, a seller that can verify all this knows they can, and will probably charge more for the van/truck than other 6.0 PSD "like vehicles".

Option Two :
And, the probable, more likely found vehicle out there for sale. Completely forget about any maintenance history on the motor. Assume nothing has been done, or if it has, it wasn't done correctly or done with inferior parts, regardless of paperwork. Here is the big part of this option. Budget 12 -14k$ above the purchase price to have the motor work completed buy a 6.0 competent shop so your "new to you" van/truck meets the requirements of Option 1. This would mean either you have deep pockets (which is cool if you do, right on) or your getting a screaming deal on the vehicle to start with. My van would be in this category although back in 2010 when I bought it, it was completely untouched any mechanic. Which is my preference as a novice mechanic for any vehicle. I have spent the money to make it an option 1 vehicle.

If either of these options don't suit you than I would recommend searching for one of the gas options. A final thought, if you choose for option two and decide not to spend all the money to complete all the improvements, your 6.0 will decide where and when you will be spending all the money for you.

- Eric
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Old 11-21-2019, 01:02 PM   #5
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^Very good advise.

I have one more note to add.... Any 6.0 older than 10 years is a candidate for a new engine wire-harness, and the more work has been done (repair or preventative), the more likely the existing harness is susceptible to wire or connector breaks.
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Old 11-21-2019, 02:08 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Belize View Post
I am looking at purchasing a 2006 Ford RB E350 Diesel with 90,000miles, and after numerous conversations with the owner, he said the following:


"About a half year after I bought the van I had some problems. Long story short I brought it in and they had to remove and install a new IPR valve and replace the stand pipe on both the passenger and drivers side. This involved tearing the motor apart. This was supposed to be done when they do the bullet proofing but was not. The mechanic said it is a tough job and is probably why it wasn't done at the time of bullet proofing. Knowing that this was not done he checked everything else out and said that whoever did the bullet proofing did everything else propper and did a good job."


I am not a diesel mechanic, but I have heard on the 6.0l that any problems with overheating heating or injectors can trash the engine. Is the above problem something that can easily be verified that no damage was done to the engine or you feel I should steer clear of the van?
FORGET a 6.0 all together,nuthin but trouble,babysittin,P.I.A. V10
That is if the word of experience means anything to ya I don't know
where you live Belize but if you look on the Sportsmobile west site there is
a decent 05 EB E350 V10 4x4 at a good price. Don't let the mileage scare ya. V10's are good for 400K if takin care of

Good luck and Happy Campin to ya
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Old 11-24-2019, 12:20 PM   #7
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I agree! "Bullet proofing" means different things to different people. Obviously there is such a thing as "bullet proofing" and "dealer proofing" from good companies, but the concepts are just thrown arround to mean different things.

My 2006 E350, TO Me , has been bullet proofed! I have new injectors, new standpipes and dummy plugs, upgraded EGR, a new motorcraft oil cooler, Rotella ELC, Rotella T6, a new harness, and its monitored with a scangauge. I honestly think that this is perfect for me!

At the same time, I love to overkill upgrades when I have extra cash!

I think the bulletproof oil cooler is awesome but I personnaly don't need it for our E350. I'm putting it on our E450... just because it's cool, and a large group of people will pay more if/when I decide to sell
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Old 11-28-2019, 11:57 AM   #8
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Everyone has given great advice here. The Ford 6.0 engine works great until several things happen which are very expensive to fix. The oil cooler gets clogged up, causing the oil to run too hot, which hardens the o-rings in the injectors and stand pipes. An overly hot engine also can cook your wiring harness which is a $1300 part. The stock EGR cooler can crack. The stock head bolts can stretch and you warp the heads and get coolant in your cylinders. All this puts a strain on your high pressure oil pump and IPR valve. It will make your EGR valve look like the underside of a BBQ grill.
So you will want to prepare to install head studs, a new oil cooler, upgraded EGR cooler and the upgraded dummy plugs and stand pipes before you cook all the other electronics and have to replace them too. Let the experiences of others be your teacher
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Old 11-28-2019, 12:54 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by BlueRB22 View Post
Everyone has given great advice here. The Ford 6.0 engine works great until several things happen which are very expensive to fix. The oil cooler gets clogged up, causing the oil to run too hot, which hardens the o-rings in the injectors and stand pipes. An overly hot engine also can cook your wiring harness which is a $1300 part. The stock EGR cooler can crack. The stock head bolts can stretch and you warp the heads and get coolant in your cylinders. All this puts a strain on your high pressure oil pump and IPR valve. It will make your EGR valve look like the underside of a BBQ grill.
So you will want to prepare to install head studs, a new oil cooler, upgraded EGR cooler and the upgraded dummy plugs and stand pipes before you cook all the other electronics and have to replace them too. Let the experiences of others be your teacher
Simply put V10

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