Overheating 6.0L Diesel - Page 2

whatpants · 04-04-2019, 11:40 AM

FWIW, I just had my water pump replaced and my mechanic convinced me not to go with a BPD water pump. He said that he's had them fail, like rub against the housing, and destroy the housing.

ndubes · 04-04-2019, 11:59 AM

Chiming in ++ James4, my temps are regularly in this range as well. I just drove my 6.0 PSD from the Denver area back to Phoenix. The EOT/WT both regularly sit in the 210ish range, if it's going over a pass it'll get up into the 220s and this was with fairly cool temps outside (30-60 degrees). In the summer in phoenix the temps are obviously a lot hotter and I have to watch things a little closer. Before I knew any better (and before doing an engine-out bulletproofing) I once towed a friend's travel trailer over a pass in the Arizona summer and found out where the "idiot gauge" on the dash starts to move - somewhere around 240! I promised my van I would never do that to her again now that I've educated myself.

I did install the low temp mitsumoto tstat per twoxentrix' suggestion as well as a new fan clutch. Hard to tell if the tstat is making a significant difference until it's summertime, but the new fan clutch is a LOT quieter than my old one. Must have been going bad.

As others mentioned once I get over a pass and start going downhill the temps definitely cool down quickly. So those temps you mentioned wouldn't alarm me too much, frankly makes me wonder how you were able to keep the temps so low prior? I would love for mine to run that cool!

ndubes · 04-04-2019, 12:02 PM

By the way for those with a tranny cooler, where did you mount it? I wanted to add one but after adding an aux electric fan in front of the radiator, could not find any space to squeeze one in. Those transmission temps (150-180) seem kind of low. On a pass I definitely can approach 200 degrees. Maybe I'm an outlier being in AZ.

carringb · 04-04-2019, 12:30 PM

ndubes - If 200 is the worst you see, I wouldn't worry about it. 170-200F is considered a good operating range, and it can tolerate much higher temps for short durations.

Offroading_is_Fun · 04-04-2019, 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ndubes

By the way for those with a tranny cooler, where did you mount it? I wanted to add one but after adding an aux electric fan in front of the radiator, could not find any space to squeeze one in.

Oh goodness, I can't remember exactly who's SMB it was.... It very well might have been a 'WIP' photo from Michael or UJOR...

They had some kind of a cooler (And I could have sworn someone said it was a transmission cooler) mounted one the inside of the frame rail with electric fans.

I'll see if I can't find the photo and dig it up. I wonder if it would be 'too effective' in wet environments (Think about how radiators are mounted on snowmobiles).

Edit: I lied, sorta. It wasn't a picture, it was a video. It was by Michael. If timestamps on this link don't work, go to appx. 1:25, look behind the transfer case. Can't listen to this (In class..), but if memory serves, it was a cooler of some kind.
https://youtu.be/IU7d3jyb0po?t=86

JoeH · 04-04-2019, 12:58 PM

I can get the TFT on my 6.0 with a 40K trucool to 200F especially if towing. But 175F is the norm.

50k on my BPD water pump as well. I've have yet to read of one failure on the diesel forums. If the water pump is coming out then consider replacing the brake vacuum pump since most of the same stuff, incl the radiator have to come out to do the job.

Twoxentrix · 04-04-2019, 03:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ndubes

I did install the low temp mitsumoto tstat per twoxentrix' suggestion as well as a new fan clutch. Hard to tell if the tstat is making a significant difference until it's summertime, but the new fan clutch is a LOT quieter than my old one. Must have been going bad.

FYI - Much of my success in lowing the temps actually came in 3 parts: Besides the Mishimoto low-temp thermostat & new fan clutch, at the same time I also had 5-Star tune create 3 tunes for me (40hp, 50hp, and 60hp) - each engages the fan earlier than the original OEM parameters - this in itself accomplished the majority of my 15 degree temp reduction of both EOT & ECT.
Now, In cooler weather i'm running around (coolant/oil) 187/195, in 90+ weather I'll see 202/210. ***On prolonged steep grades those temps might go up another 15 degrees

ShuttlePilot · 04-04-2019, 05:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whatpants

FWIW, I just had my water pump replaced and my mechanic convinced me not to go with a BPD water pump. He said that he's had them fail, like rub against the housing, and destroy the housing.

Not accusing any mechanics of anything, but just for the information of the group. There are two impeller sizes that were used in PSD 6.0's. One for the 2003 thru 2004.5 and the 2004.5 and up. I'm not sure if it's even possible to chris cross the two but if it is I would assume a less than ideal outcome is likely. Actually there are quite a few differences between those two groups of 6.0's beyond the water pump size. I'm sure most know this but just an FYI for anyone who doesn't.

-Eric

eddyturn · 04-05-2019, 08:38 AM

Update. Thanks for all the input and van is still at the shop. On the 40 mile drive to the shop the engine did some odd things that had not even shown before. Going up low grade hills the coolant temp went up to 204 then when level or going slight downhills it would drop down to 190 or maybe 188. Not done that in the 35k that I have had it. It's usually just parked itself at 196 and held that unless it was warm or climbing hills. Still... it would not just drop down to 190 like that and held at that 196 or so.

Shop noticed the odd behavior and took out the thermostat and there was a piece of rubber stuck in the stat. He is not even sure where that came from so he had his guys pull the water pump and it was broken but still not sure where the rubber piece came from.

I can't afford a BPD pump and there are other non-plastic pumps out there so I asked them to look into that and while they were at it, flush out the old coolant.

So... resolution for some of it except the piece of rubber. I asked about the Mishimoto thermostats and he prefers the stock Ford items. He said when the Mishimoto fails it will fail into the closed position and the Ford's will fail in the open position. I also asked for the Ford low temperature thermostat which he thinks is what I had anyway. Hoping to get it back today so we can take the van to SE UT for some camping for wife's birthday.

arctictraveller · 04-05-2019, 11:26 AM

I've always wondered about low temp thermostats. They open sooner as the engine warms, but then you still have the exact same amount of heat rejection as before, so how do they make an engine run cooler once it's open? It might take slightly longer to reach full temp, but I don't understand how they could reduce the operating temp once open.