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Old 09-09-2018, 04:14 PM   #1
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Reman'd Engine Break In Procedure?

2005 E350 EB with 5.4 gas engine:

So about to spin a Ford OEM reman'd engine up sometime soon, will add a 16 oz bottle of Lucas Break In Oil Additive to the Motorcraft 5W-20 oil already in the pan. Along with an Accusump engine pre-oiler system I should have great first start-up protection. It will run at least an hour before a test drive, most likely a 30 mile trip back home. Oil & filter will be changed after a few hours running or 200 miles or so.

Question is there a published break-in guide for new or reman'd engines? I know its best to try varying speeds when/if possible but most of my driving is either 35 or 70 mph, about 25/75 split at those speeds.

I do have to let the truck idle for long periods of time during the winter to keep the heat going. This can be up to 5-6 hours some days, a few times each week.

So if anyone knows anything available or has experience with this sort of thing I'd be glad to know how this is done to assure long life of my new engine.

Thanks so much in advance!

J W
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Old 09-09-2018, 06:25 PM   #2
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Published vehicle break-in procedures are for the rear-end, not the engine. Engine is broken in by the Teamsters who load them on railcars.

A good proper break-in requires loading the engine. Don't baby it. Here's a good guide:
How to Break-In An Engine
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Old 09-09-2018, 07:25 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carringb View Post
A good proper break-in requires loading the engine. Don't baby it. Here's a good guide:
How to Break-In An Engine
That certainly is an interesting read - Completely contrary to what I was taught (age showing now), and yet makes complete sense.
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Old 09-10-2018, 10:29 AM   #4
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Hammer down. Drive it like you stole it. Pull over and change the oil from time to time.

You'll know if you have a problem with Triton if spark plugs shoot out the side every now and then.

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Old 09-10-2018, 12:51 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by 86Scotty View Post
Hammer down. Drive it like you stole it. Pull over and change the oil from time to time.

You'll know if you have a problem with Triton if spark plugs shoot out the side every now and then.

OMG you ratbastich----just jinxed me all to Hades and back with that plug thing!

I'd always heard break an engine in the way you'll drive it---that being the case I'd start it, drive 30 miles then leave it idling for 2-4 hours. Apparently that's not good?

This motor came already loaded with oil, exhaust manifold studs AND plugs whick I'll be checking those in a day or so. Assuming they're the Motorcraft SP-479's as spec'd the least I'll do is pull them out for a thin coat of nickel-based anti-seize and torqued to 23-24 ft/lbs.

Exhaust manifold studs will be replaced with Ford stainless steel parts including nuts and washers too. The studs will get the nickel anti-seize too.

So onward it goes for now---won't be able to resume work until a day or so, just want to be prepared for that first key-on fright-inducing moments.
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Old 09-10-2018, 02:08 PM   #6
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The (re)manufacturer doesn't have any recommendations? I imagine doing it their way might be important to keeping whatever warranty they provide.
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Old 09-11-2018, 05:47 AM   #7
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The (re)manufacturer doesn't have any recommendations? I imagine doing it their way might be important to keeping whatever warranty they provide.
Great point---talking with my installer he tells me Ford included a booklet or pamphlet so tips and practices might be outlined there.

I'll be visiting my van and new engine this evening to install plugs and charge the pre-oiling system.

Fully agree about following recommended procedures not only for warranty but to assure a good breaking in period and long engine life too.
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Old 09-12-2018, 05:09 AM   #8
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Okay so after digging into the included information as well as the package of parts accompanying the reman'd engine there isn't anything detailed or specific about breaking it in. I've found some recommendations via FTE from a long-time and well respected member who has built engines for quite some time. Posts # 7 & 9 in this thread are the most helpful and sound reasonable: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...procedure.html

I will say what Ford includes in one of these engines is very impressive. Water pump, exhaust studs already installed, oil pan, valve covers, intake, exhaust manifold gaskets a new oil filter rail (w/gasket) AND FL-820S filter installed, front cover already installed---even filled with oil. I was pleasantly shocked to learn it arrived so complete.

Ford makes it very clear they want a new oil filter rail, cooler and filter installed so that's makes perfect sense and is a no-brainer warranty-wise

Feeling quite a bit better about the $3K initial cost. Of course the intake needs cleaned and all injectors replaced (most are cracked) and the crankshaft position sensor (covered with fine particles, most likely bearing schmutz) but that's not unexpected. New Motorcraft injectors and fuel filter will be added---Ford seems pretty specific on these things too--won't be over looked.

And the beat goes on............
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Old 09-17-2018, 11:12 AM   #9
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What prompted the engine swapout? 2005 is pretty young for that engine.
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Old 09-17-2018, 11:46 AM   #10
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What prompted the engine swapout? 2005 is pretty young for that engine.
Yeah--tell me about it! With only 142K miles one would think it was a long way off from such a thing.

I was having doubts about how sound this engine was even though it seemed to run strong pretty much always. When coming to a stop the oil pressure gauge on the cluster would fall to zero, a warning chime and message would appear saying "check gauges". Initially I thought it was simply a bad pressure sender but decided connect an actual gauge to read what was happening.

There was a lot of ticking and what I'd swear was a loose rod or possibly crank slapping---none of which were very comforting.

At a hot idle I should have had about 25psi---I was lucky to hold 8! Just off idle I'd get up to 60+ psi Discussing an engine swap with a knowledgeable mechanic friend he suggested I run a concoction of Rotella 15W40 and a quart of Lucas Oil Stabilizer which I did.

With that oil installed my cold idle was 70 psi, when warm it was struggling to hold 15-----even that was dropping a bit. Given this is a work vehicle and dependability is the key word I wasn't going to put this on the road in its suspect condition.

If interested here's a few videos of the final testing: https://www.youtube.com/user/jwa718/videos. (Random order, titles describe what's being shown.

Who knows how long it would have lasted in that condition---replacing it seemed prudent.
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