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Old 04-10-2018, 08:52 AM   #1
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A/C acting up

2002 Ford E350

I’m hoping to trouble shoot this before bringing it into the shop. My fan knob only kicks on when it’s on high (low and two intermediate settings don’t respond). Additionally, the selector knob isn’t directing the air to the proper places (flow seems to be split between defrost, floor and dash vents).

Any input would be greatly appreciated. Otherwise, can anyone recommend a reputable auto A/C guy in or near Long Beach that can take a look?

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Old 04-10-2018, 10:06 AM   #2
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geller

Have run into this at least a couple times. Sounds like you have a faulty blower motor RESISTOR. It is responsible for adjusting fan speed, for instance if set on low it will resist about 75% of current flow. (my thoughts)
I do not know where the resistor would be on your vehicle, but maybe find it on google or youtube or wiring diagram. It will still work on high and defrost as that is a safety feature. Good news, does not sound like an ac issue. I would suspect it works the same way on heat. Just my two cents w/o inspecting. Hoping for your success.
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Old 04-10-2018, 10:14 AM   #3
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Thanks Geller, those are exactly the type of encouraging words I was hopping to hear. I'll look into it, hopefully a quick fix.
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Old 04-10-2018, 10:23 AM   #4
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Looks pretty straight forward. Less than $20 part from Autozone and I even found a video on where it's located. I'll give it a shot and let you know how it goes.

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Old 04-10-2018, 11:01 AM   #5
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You likely have two different issues. Air flow is directed by the use of vacuum, and if you have a vacuum leak, you get air out of vents that are not selected. This has been discussed a lot here, so try the search function. To start, check this thread

http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...nts-17921.html
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Old 04-10-2018, 11:46 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arctictraveller View Post
You likely have two different issues. Air flow is directed by the use of vacuum, and if you have a vacuum leak, you get air out of vents that are not selected. This has been discussed a lot here, so try the search function. To start, check this thread

http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...nts-17921.html

Thanks for the link, hopefully if I can get the air moving by replacing the BM Resistor and I'm still having trouble with the selector switch I'll be in go-mode to trouble-shoot a possible vacuum leak!
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Old 04-10-2018, 11:50 AM   #7
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Compared to the guys on here I am a real amateur. But I thought this video was helpful and may be of use for the second problem. Finding vacuum leaks is such fun. This fellows solution was quite ingenious. Best to you. Geller
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Old 04-14-2018, 06:55 AM   #8
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If you've not already accomplished this swap strongly consider a new pigtail lead, the one from the wiring harness into the resistor itself. Too often those are nearly impossible to remove from the resistor housing without damage. Plus the age of your van (assuming the resistor/connector are original) makes these parts quite brittle, tend to fall apart in your hand.

Contacts might show a bit of carbon build-up from all the amps running through them over the years.

FWIW every time I've done this the battery comes out and the battery tray too---makes life much easier! If you do remove the battery tray be advised the bolts holding it to the body structure might be stubborn and cause more problems replacing them making than the extra room removal gives you not worth the hassle.

HTH
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Old 04-15-2018, 09:15 PM   #9
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If you've not already accomplished this swap strongly consider a new pigtail lead, the one from the wiring harness into the resistor itself. Too often those are nearly impossible to remove from the resistor housing without damage. Plus the age of your van (assuming the resistor/connector are original) makes these parts quite brittle, tend to fall apart in your hand.

HTH
Yes, the resistor shorted out and melted to the original pigtail lead.
Completely brittle and disintegrated when trying to take them apart.
That actually made things much easier, as after labeling where each wire went in the old lead, all I had to do was connect them to their corresponding wire on the new lead and bolt it back into place. I saved myself some headache by inspecting the new resistor before sliding it into place. In monkeying around I had inadvertently bent one of the coils of the new resistor over and it was touching the adjacent coil. Easy enough to bend back into place before re-mounting it.
The pan and battery came out and went back in with no troubles.

At this point, the blower motor was working well, but I was still not getting air from the proper vents. I bought 8 feet of vacuum hose and bypassed/spliced from under the hood through the passenger door into the spot in the passenger wheel well indicated in the video above and everything worked fine. Instead of going through the bolt hole, I found a rubber plug at the side of the wheel-well about 18 inches up from the floor that you can see from outside by looking between the open door and door frame. I popped it out, drilled a hole through the center to accommodate my new vacuum tube and popped it back into place. Much cleaner and didn't have to remove the dog-house.

I also took advantage of my fix-it-fit to pull and rebuild the vent to the left of the steering wheel. The tabs that link the vertical and horizontal louvers had popped off. I found one and fabricated the missing one out of a zip tie. Now I have cold air blasting me from the left again!

Also looked up online how to re-program my key fob. Took 4-5 tries but now my doors lock and unlock at the push of a button again.

All in all a very productive weekend. Thanks to all for pointing me in the right direction. Not too difficult and saved me a bunch of money. One of the videos I ran across showed what the dealer goes through to get to that vacuum leak. 6.5 hours of labor and a lot of stuff sitting on the shop floor that had to come out just to get to it...

Edit: Sorry about the orientation of the photos, despite rotating them before uploading they seem to be coming through upside down on preview...
Attached Thumbnails
Vaccum reroute.jpg   vacuum pass-through.jpg  
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Old 04-16-2018, 05:27 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DosMars View Post
One of the videos I ran across showed what the dealer goes through to get to that vacuum leak. 6.5 hours of labor and a lot of stuff sitting on the shop floor that had to come out just to get to it...
Got a link to that video? I'd love to see what's involved.

BTW glad you got all this sorted out---it can be aggravating and uncomfortable too---fixing it all so worth the time and effort!
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