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Old 05-26-2019, 09:24 PM   #11
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If it is 100f outside and sunny then the interior van temp could be well over 140f. The refrig is probably running 100% of the time. I DO NOT KNOW WHAT A DE450 average power draw is but.... Refrig are normally spec'd at 70f and designed for abourt 25% on time. If your DE450 consumed 800watts a day then at 140f and running all the time in 140f temp it could be consuming 3,200 watts a day. The solar would supply about 4*120 watts a day in full sun (480 watts) and the house batteries (100*12 +100*10 = 2200 watts MAX....IF in excellent condition). 2680 watts (480+2200) available verses 3,000+ watts needed to run the refrig. for 24 hours. You might want to use a Kill-a-watt meter and measure what your system really produces and needs. I think you need to pull the interior temp down to reduce the load on the refrig and also add another 120 watt solar panel.

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Old 05-26-2019, 10:13 PM   #12
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Here is a link to a couple of items that I installed that have helped reduce power http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...des-22480.html


The key device for power savings would be the Merlin 11, mini smart controller

Of course you bigger problem is temperature around the compressor, with some of our builds airflow around the compressor is hard to come by. When the top is down it can be very difficult to keep the temperature down. A fan helps but it becomes a trade off on fan power versus refrigerator power. I use this temperature controlled relay to control the refrigerator vent, and also have one for a 12 volt fan .

I would like to think it all helps, if it gets hot there is only so much I can do, I have thought of looking at external venting.

From your power perspective, your 120 watt panel won't keep up with it in these conditions. Also I suspect your panel is pretty old, if you were going to increase solar size it would be better to start with newer panels.

You also need to come up with a battery management program.


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Old 05-27-2019, 07:23 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Makalu1 View Post
Herb, it was replace in Feb 2016 according to the receipts the previous owner passed on to us.
Scott,
Battery voltage may reflect full capacity when charging, but if the battery has/had been compromised by running it low numerous times (admittedly you have done this, but its possible previous owner did as well) it will not hold the charge the same as a properly maintained battery. The voltage will reduce much more quickly.
I fell victim to the same - let mine get down below 50% a couple times. It was a 2 year old Lifeline 220AH and wouldn't run my fridge through the night: Charged the battery before I left, it would have 6-12hrs charge from drive time, yet would deplete overnight. I'm much more diligent now in battery maintenance...they are costly.
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Old 06-02-2019, 10:55 AM   #14
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Norcold

Yes, things have changed over the years to be more energy efficient, especially electric motors.
The newer refrigerators draw less energy compared to your model. In addition solar panels have become more efficient as well making more energy than previous models. I would start with new panels there are several to choose from. I use AMP which are small and rated at 100 watts each X2=200 watts total and cover about a 3'x4' area over the cab. No problems with running frig 24/7. When the top is down in the Arizona/ Mexico desert the inside gets hot with no air movement causing a temperature alarm to shut down the refrigerator. Allowing fresh air movement eliminates this problem and makes ice cubes. Hope this helps.
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Old 06-02-2019, 01:06 PM   #15
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Do you have a shore charger? Myself I'd do a amp test on the battery after a good hard shore charge. I agree it might be a bad battery but some batteries (like the Lifeline AGM's) can be equalized using their recommendations. Each battery manufacture is different so you'd have to research it. I'm just saying if it's a last resort it might be best to start there. This is off the Lifeline web site.


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Old 06-02-2019, 05:51 PM   #16
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I've got a 2001 SMB with a small Norcold. Or had one; it started crapping out about a year ago. Ugly sounds, and seemed to work a lot harder to not get very cold. Decided to replace it. SMB put in a new Norcold, which they said is more efficient. It does draw more amps at max cooling, but seems to hold the cold longer than my old one ever did. And the freezer actually works. It's going to be difficult to ascertain whether over all it's really using less juice to keep stuff cool for longer, but so far seems decent.
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Old 06-03-2019, 01:06 AM   #17
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If you're going to upgrade solar panels I strongly recommend the Grape Solar 180 watt panel that Greg (Scalf77) posted about in his upgrade - available online from Home Depot with pick up in store. These panels really work and are the same size as most 100 watt panels. My single panel keeps the fridge running.

daveb - thanks for the link to Lifeline agm equilization - good info.
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Old 06-18-2019, 07:36 AM   #18
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I am wondering about the power use as well as we just purchased a 96 with the Norcold DE451

The amp draw is listed 4@ 12V meaning on constant running she would deplete nearly 100ah per 24 hour day.

New norcold 12/24v is a 3A draw, so 25% savings although a good point about better insulation efficiency has been brought up.

Your panel is putting out perhaps around 30-35ah? Maybe less because it's flat. It's hard to calculate these on RVs because they're not positioned like homes are (angled toward sun) so there is possibly less produced but the actual amount is unknown unless measured in the actual use environment.

Possible simple fix:

Add more panels. 2 more panels could cover your daily use and leave a little bit to spare. You may have to update the charge controller.

If you spend $1k on a new fridge it may conserve 25% power. You may be able to recoup some by selling your fridge for something. Perhaps $400? I dunno. Say the cost is $600 if you do the work yourself.

2 new 100w panels at approx $110-120 ea. for a total of $240 plus a few $ in misc stuff and $100-120 for a new charge controller if you need it for a max of approx $360. Less money plus possibly 100% power generation for your fridge and perhaps other items.

That's where I'm leaning. Either $600 to save 25% power or $360 to generate 100% power.

Definitely add the vent fan to exhaust the hot air. That's a killer. Even if just the solar car window style, but better yet a maxxair or fantastic.
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