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Old 10-20-2015, 10:29 AM   #21
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Re: Fridge Broke?

I can only speak for the Truckfridge but if you have solar and/or occasionally plug in there's really no need to spend more on the 12v/120 model, just get the 12v only. No regrets here. 100 watts will run mine for several days before I'm in the low 12v's. You have like 1000 watts up there or something so you should be fine.

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Old 10-20-2015, 11:53 AM   #22
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Re: Fridge Broke?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 86Scotty
I can only speak for the Truckfridge but if you have solar and/or occasionally plug in there's really no need to spend more on the 12v/120 model, just get the 12v only. No regrets here. 100 watts will run mine for several days before I'm in the low 12v's. You have like 1000 watts up there or something so you should be fine.

Yes, I rarely plug in, so 12v only would be fine.

And I only have 300 watts of panels. 1000 would be nice though!
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Old 03-14-2016, 11:44 PM   #23
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Rallypanam:

Did you decide on a new fridge? which one? Like it?

I can't get solid info on Norcold NR751 vs Isotherm Cruise 85 or an Engel etc. With a new SMB build I'm trying to decide whether to go with something other than what SMB will select as standard. Thx!
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Old 03-16-2016, 11:55 AM   #24
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I just added a second fan to increase the removal of hot air behind the fridge. At first I put it on a seperate switch and turned it on as needed, but a few weeks ago I added a relay triggered by the thermostat so the fan comes on every time the compressor cycles. The fridge now seems to run for much shorter amounts of time between cycles. In addition, my stove is right on top of the fridge and with both burners on it would cause the compressor to cycle on and stay on until the stove cooled off. I pulled the stove and added yellow fiberglass insulation on top of the fridge topped with a piece of heavy duty alumminum foil. Now, after lighting the burners, the fridge stays off much longer, and when it does start is only runs a few minutes. Finally, I added reflectix on the walls of the enclosure. All this seems to help reduce the running time, but it sounds like Robb had a different problem. Did you get it solved?
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Old 05-10-2016, 01:17 PM   #25
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So long overdue update.. Since winter came, my fridge was less of a concern, and it dropped off my todo list. It still works, just not as well (potentially) as I thought it did/should.

But then Adam had this one for sale, so I snapped it up.
http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...dge-17163.html

Finally got it installed, and it seems good. 12v only, which is fine as I rarely plug in.. and if I do, not a big deal, fridge can run off the battery while 120v charges the battery.

Pulls 1.4amps while running, which I think is pretty good. But that was without fan kicked on. Now we'll wait for summer and see if I can keep beer cold in 90+ temps...
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Old 05-11-2016, 10:52 PM   #26
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What's the model number? Found specs on my 2-way that said max draw is 2.5 amps on DC.
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Old 05-12-2016, 06:19 AM   #27
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My old 4CF pulled just shy of 3 amps and the new one is drawing about 6. When I found that out I wasn't very happy. Maybe apples N oranges cause it cycles on for less time but it does knock the float charge off the batteries in a minute or so. I'd love to see a 2.5 amp draw. Seemed like the smaller units pulled about an amp less. Not sure about the new smaller Norcolds.
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