Hot & Cold van floor

[zugg]

Hi,

Sam, the spray gun that I bought from Lizard Skin is nice and has a stem to control the product flow. I found that using the stem with the least amount of product flow worked best.
It is a more focused delivery.
The second coat I applied more, so I opened up the stem more.
I would think that most spray guns would work though.
Overspray is not an issue, when using a focused delivery.

With the 2nd coat, the interior of the van is way quiter!
I can tell a major difference because I have driven the van for a month with no Lizard Skin.

There is no more condensation on the passenger floor.
The hot spot above the transfer case is now "warm" and not hot like a pancake skillet!
This stuff really works!
I am pleased with the results.
I realize that many forum members reading this already have their vans built, but for the few and new that do not, give Lizzard Skin a try, it is totally worth it!

Zugg

[msponer]

Hi Zugg,

Did you use two coats of the Lizard Skin SC formula or one coat Ceramic and one SC? How much did you use to do the inside of your van?

Thanks.

Matt.

[zugg]

Hi Matt,

I sprayed two coats of Lizard skin--ceramic solution.
Two gallon buckets are what they sell.
I used almost both buckets.

Zugg

[Sam]

Zugg:

Thanks for the updated info on the Lizard Skin. How hard was it to spray underneath the van? I looked at my van (a Chevy) & I have heat shields covering most of the floor. Does your Ford van have these as well? It looks like it would be tough to spray under those areas but if the spray gun you got directs the spray & there isn't any over spray, then that might work just fine. Glad to hear that your van is quieter & no more condensation!

Sam

[zugg]

Hi Sam,

Thanks for the reply.
I also have heat shields, for the exhaust pipe.
I will be adding heat shields above the transfer case as well.
I sprayed the interior van floor, walls and doors.
I am very happy with the Lizard Skin applied in my van!
I may use the remaing product and spray the underside of the rear floor.

There are attachment parts for the spray gun, one is like a capital L, and one is for a smaller hose to clamp on, for hard to reach places.
Overspray is not an issue, just use the low volume setting.
Here is the link for the spray gun, click around and see what you find.

www.lizardskin.com/pages/spray_kit.php

Let me know if you have more questions, and if you apply the Lizard Skin.

Peace,

Zugg

[Sam]

Zugg:

You need to post a picture or two of the interior spray. Before you bought the Lizard Skin, did you talk to LS about your application? If so, where they helpful in providing you with the necessary information? Are you still planning on using the green insulation? It sounds like the Lizard Skin & insulation combined will be a good combination. Actually, you might not need to use other insulation.

I was just out at SMB in IN & they are still using fiberglass R11 insulation & think that is best. I didn't ask them about the Lizard Skin since they said the fiberglass was the best to use.

They are also using a new material for their cabinets. It's now a plywood coated like the MFD board that they use to use for cabinets. That should work a lot better than the MFD. I forgot to ask them what it was called & where it can be purchased from. I'll have to drop Nancy an email & ask her what it is called & where they get it.

Sam

[Christopher Thwaites]

Zugg,
I'm getting into this thread a bit late. I too have a V10 Quadvan and the floor temps in the center and on the pass. side are severe. The other day I took a close look and the factory heat shields have been cut away to make room for the transfer case.
Eddie at Quadvan suggested Lizard skin but I will be using Dynamat. I want to cover the floor from the fire wall aft.(project # 12, I'm on #5 now) I have already installed 3/4 plywood with Loncoin covering from just behind the cockpit aft. Heat comes through it. I might resort to removing it and laying the dynamat underneath.
I am interested in the heat shield product you mention. Does it install on the underside of the floor between the exhaust and the body?
As far as condensation, I believe the problem exists when there is an air space between the metal and the insulation material and of course wherever there is bare metal that's cold on one side and hot on the other and the humidity is high.
From what I've been told the lizard skin leaves no air space. It's like paint.
Let me know about the heat shield stuff.
Chris

[zugg]

Greetings,

Chris,
NRL suggested some cool heat shields in the previous page of this thread.
Thanks NRL.

Here is the website:

www.nipponpower.com/product.phtml?p=1054

I will be getting some of these shields for the underfloor-above the transfer case. They are adhesive.
There is plenty of space to atach these heat shields, under the van floor.
The Lizard Skin does help keep heat out, but the heat shields are very light and they will help as well.

Sam,
The Lizard Skin Tech support is cool and they did help me with questions, so call them!
All the decisions I made for my build are based on research and personal choice/lifestyle.
You can use fiber glass, or you can seek out alternatives, your choice.
The plywood is one step closer to wood, compared to MDF.

Good luck with your build!

Zugg

[Sam]

Thanks Zugg!

Sam

[Christopher Thwaites]

Thanks for the heat shield info. Looks like the perfect material for the areas above the exhaust system. It's all accessible to.