Hot & Cold van floor

zugg · 08-30-2008, 10:10 PM

Greetings,

I have a Ford V-10 Quadvan with 4x4. The floor is not yet covered and right in the middle of the two front seats, just behind the 4x4 shifter, the floor gets extremely hot! The transfer case is located under the floor in this area and I at least know the cuase.
Has anyone else encountered this, and if so , what did you do to fix this?
I plan on spraying a thermal barrier called Lizard Skin and that should keep the heat out.
Any suggestions?
I installed a swivel base (passenger side) in my van the other day.
When I pulled up the OEM black rubber floor, there was condensation on the metal floor. Looking closer, there is a bolt that holds the van body to the chassis. It was rusty as well.
The refrigeration unit that makes the cabin air cold is located in the same area, just under the van floor.
So I assume that all other Ford vans have this same situation and you would only find out by pulling up your floor.
Has anyone else encountered this?
I plan on spraying more Lizard Skin on this exact area. That should keep the condensation out and prevent longterm rust.
Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Zugg

**daveb** · 08-31-2008, 12:46 PM

Zugg I don't know if this applies but SMB told me that these spray on insulation products don't breath and that was why they suggested not using them in certain areas. Does the Lizard Skin product breath? I have been looking for a similar fix against heat but want to make sure before causing more of a problem. I have yet to pull the flooring up to check for rust but might have to, especially if others are having a similar problem. If SMB has a new stance on these products I would like to know.
Dave B

zugg · 08-31-2008, 10:21 PM

Hi Dave B.

Here are two links for the Lizard Skin.

www.hotrodscustomstuff.com/PS-LizSkin.html

http://www.lizardskin.com/pages/ceramic.php

Regarding breathability, what certain areas should one avoid?
The tech guys at Lizzard Skin do not mention any areas to avoid. I told them I will spray the walls, doors and floor of a van. Obviously the moving parts and wire connections inside the doors are taped to keep the spray away.

I found out that SMB sprays sound proofing on the interior of vans (if requested.) I have not looked into the results though.
If there are any people that have sound proofing spray in their van, please share.
Sound proofing spray and a thermal barrier are not the same, but the condensation topic may show different results.
Lizard Skin is a thermal barrier. One of the things it does is to keep condensation out.
Raw metal like van walls, & doors will not do this, and that is why there are drainage holes at the base of all doors and walls in Ford vans.
So I see adding this as a plus.
It keeps the van cooler from direct sunlight.
It also helps to keep the van warmer in cold climates.
I will find out this coming winter and share what the results are.
(I will be installing insulation before the wall panels are in place.).
I have sprayed the first layer and the second coating will happen Monday.
So far, the interior is cooler after only one coat.

Zugg

Sam · 09-01-2008, 04:35 PM

Zugg:

This is a little off of your topic about the condensation since I have a Chevy van. So I can't help you there about your van floor. I did see where Blackeye had sound/thermal interior by Integrated Audio Solutions out of Clovis, CA (SMBâ€™s audio / video affiliate) & they used a product called Dynamat. In his pictures it looked like to me, like his was sprayed on but I didn't think that was how the Dynamat worked. He said that it seemed to work well but couldn't tell since he's only driven it with the Dynamat installed. I didn't think it was an insulation like the Lizard Skin.

You & I have exchanged emails about the Lizard Skin & insulation. I'm sure others would be interested in the Lizard Skin results with pictures if possible. I'm curious what kind of over spray or how much of a mess the spraying creates. It will be interesting to hear what your results are.

Sam

Greg In Austin · 09-01-2008, 09:13 PM

We added 2 layers of Second Sking products to our cab floor,... or actually, we had SMB do it during the initial build.

One layer is the rubber-like material, and the other is a more traditional insulation-like material.

We had heard that there were both sound and thermal issues with the 6.0 PSD.

This has been an incredibly hot summer around our parts, with 4 times the 100 degree days that we normally get, and almost every day (90+ in a row) over 90 degrees.

....but we have seen no heat or sound problems in the just over 3 months that we have had McBeast.

NRL · 09-02-2008, 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zugg

Greetings,

I have a Ford V-10 Quadvan with 4x4. The floor is not yet covered and right in the middle of the two front seats, just behind the 4x4 shifter, the floor gets extremely hot! The transfer case is located under the floor in this area and I at least know the cuase.
Has anyone else encountered this, and if so , what did you do to fix this?
I plan on spraying a thermal barrier called Lizard Skin and that should keep the heat out.
Any suggestions?
I installed a swivel base (passenger side) in my van the other day.
When I pulled up the OEM black rubber floor, there was condensation on the metal floor. Looking closer, there is a bolt that holds the van body to the chassis. It was rusty as well.
The refrigeration unit that makes the cabin air cold is located in the same area, just under the van floor.
So I assume that all other Ford vans have this same situation and you would only find out by pulling up your floor.
Has anyone else encountered this?
I plan on spraying more Lizard Skin on this exact area. That should keep the condensation out and prevent longterm rust.
Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Zugg

The spray on thermal spray sounds like a good idea too.

I had a similar problem that I solved using adhesive stick on heat shield sheets from Summit racing.
I think they are called DEI Reflect-A-Cool Heat Shields but I actually also ordered the other ones to check them out. One was 2mm thick and the other 4mm thick.
My particular issue was the whole area near the catalytic and exhaust length which was overheating the stock heat shield right below the floor and the heat propagating via the bolts to the floor inside.

Do not use these on the actual exhaust, they have another product for that which I also used; exhaust heat wraps.

In fact I think I ordered all the different kinds of heat shields available from Summit, even a metallic heat shield that I wrapped around the catalytic via metal zip ties.

My under chassis temps underneath on a hot hot day 118 Degrees would reach between 175 to 200 Degrees, using the adhesive heat shields reduced the temps down by 20+ degrees overall underneath and the floor temps by 50%+.

ps. To also help in the heat dissapating department, I also replaced the stock transmission pan withe Derale Deep Steel pan with tubulator cooling tubes. You don't want a aluminum transmission pan if you 4x4.. steel bends versus Aluminum cracks...

**daveb** · 09-02-2008, 03:34 PM

Some good info here. Will have to check out those heat shields.

Zugg, I really don't know if there are any condensation issues at all but during my build in 05 I really wanted some kind of insulation. I talked with SMB about this and they said not to use a similar product due to promoting rust. Maybe they didn't actually WANT to hassle with installing/shooting it. I can't blame them if they were not sure about some of these products. Personally I think it's a great idea...I would just want to make sure. If lizard skin keeps water out and away from the metal I would think it would work. The area I asked about was the walls. Also I was not asking about lizard skin. Possibly someone like John K can answer.
Dave

zugg · 09-05-2008, 09:53 PM

Greetings,

Sam, I researched Dynamat and it sounds like a good product.
Although the thermal barrier is what I was looking for.
Lizard Skin is an earth friendly product that cleans up easily with soap and water. The second coat went in today.

Greg, thanks for sharing about the Second Skin. I researched that as well. I was looking for a thermal barrier, so that is why I went with the Lizard Skin.
With only one coating, the van is quieter! The second coat went in today.

NRL, sounds like some nice products you found to deal with the heat issue. Did you put anything directly on the surface of the interior floor?
I sparayed Lizzard Skin on my floor and directly above the transfer case. I will be driving the van Saturday to check for a hot floor.

daveb, I pulled up the black rubber floor (passenger side floor) today and gave it two coats of Lizard Skin. That should stop the condensation due to the cabin air cooling unit. I will post some results Saturday.

Zugg

Greg In Austin · 09-06-2008, 06:43 AM

Zugg,

Both Second Skin and Dynamat are thermal barriers. They are marketed as sound barriers, but they have been shown to be very nice thermal barriers, ...and they are less permanent and more reversable options.

These are the type products than many folks have used to enhance the thermal properties of their dog house.

...but it sounds like you have a direction now...

Good luck.

.

Sam · 09-06-2008, 09:20 PM

Zugg:

Sounds like you are well under way with the Lizard Skin. I hope that it works as advertised. It's nice that it is a product that can be cleaned up with soap & water. What is so special about their spray gun & how is it for overspray? Keep us updated with your results.

Sam