Hot & cold water system

[LanduytG]

No need for all the fancy manifolds. All you need is the combination valve available through us. Also do not use veggie oil in the D10 unless its <20% you will wish you hadn't. Only the D8 M-II is designed for >20%.

Greg

[Abitibi]

Thanks for the info on the valve, I'll make sure to look into it and into a few other things that you might have... I'll contact you directly as well for more info on this

As for veggie I'll be running a two tank system so straight diesel for the Espar. I didn't even know they could tolerate a certain amount of veggie blend...

Cheers
Mr. D

[Tapatio]

Originally Posted by LanduytG

No need for all the fancy manifolds. All you need is the combination valve available through us. Also do not use veggie oil in the D10 unless its <20% you will wish you hadn't. Only the D8 M-II is designed for >20%.

Greg

Very interesting. Where can I buy this valve? Couldn't find it on your website.

[LanduytG]

Originally Posted by Tapatio

Very interesting. Where can I buy this valve? Couldn't find it on your website.

We just now added it to the web site.
http://www.lubricationspecialist.com/es ... ion-valve/


Greg

[Abitibi]

Originally Posted by BACKRDS

I recommend that you rethink needing a D10. Our D5 is plenty big, and it heats up the space in a hurry. Most of the it runs on low. We have a friend with a D10 on a 56 foot boat and it is too big for them.

I just had another look at the specs between the D5 & D10. Seems like I'll be fine, just more control over heat output. A bit more amps draw on the big brother though.

As you can see in the picture;
D5 has either 17,000 or 8,200btu
D10 has 32,400 or 25,600 or 10,900 or 5,100btu



Unless there's more to it I think I'll be fine.

Cheers
Mr. D

[boywonder]

Originally Posted by Abitibi

Hot water tank:
I'm thinking to build one so that I always have a reserve of hot water ready on demand. It would be small (3-4 gallons) in aluminum and insulated by 2" rigid foam inside a plywood box. I may integrate a 12V 300W water heater and/or a coiled copper tube (heat exchanger) inside the tank so that I can keep the water hot even when not driving around. Another option might be to have a small water pump to continuously circulate the water between the tank and the heat exchanger?

Abitibi: Please be advised that fabricating a home-brew hot water tank can be a dangerous proposition unless you understand boiler design....that's why hot water heaters and other hot water/steam pressure vessels must comply with the ASME boiler code from the manufacturer, at least in the states. 3-4 gallons of superheated steam from a ruptured tank is plenty of energy to do some serious damage, especially to passengers inside a van, if there is any van left after a failure.

If you decide that you are going to fabricate something, use a Temperature/Pressure relief valve (T/P valve), and consider something other than aluminum......I don't hesitate to fabricate pretty much anything, but in this case I would buy a hot water tank......just my $.02

[larrie]

I agree with boy wonder. Have seen hot water heaters blow up. It is an impressive sight but also very destructive. You may want to look at something like this for a storage tank, http://www.lowes.com/pd_26603-1136-GL4.0_0__. No need to hook up the electric.

[Abitibi]

Thanks guys.

I decided against it as it's probably overkilled for my needs and I can use the space for better use. From what I read the heat exchanger with a circulating pump would be plenty good for me.

I have the Espar now sitting at the back of my Ambo waiting to get installed but still have a few projects to complete before getting started on the plumbing... At least I now have most of my parts ready

Cheers and thanks again for the input, really appreciate and it may benefit others as well!

Cheers
Mr. D


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[Abitibi]

Just in case someone down the road search for additional information related to water and/or Espar plumbing, I'm attaching this link where I've detailed my install... Cheers!

viewtopic.php?t=13249


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