Propane Hot Water question?

[TraceyAZ]

Ok So Im doing some winterizing and Im a bit confused. There are two valves on the back side of the Propane hot water heater. What valve is the "bypass" valve? Also because these two valves are on a 90 degree connection wich way is "on" and "off".
Any help on this would be great.
Thank you
TraceyAZ

[jage]

I believe pointing the valve "handles" at each other connects the bypass tube. If you water heater has been working, 90º from where they are is "bypass", where they are connects the hot water tank.

Normally water goes in the top of the heater and out the bottom. With both valves turned to connect the short tube ("bypass"), the water goes through the short tube.

Mine were really tough to turn (I made a tool by notching an old socket) and impossible to replace- I deleted the bypass since it's only purpose is to run food safe antifreeze in the system and keep the water heater empty.

So you would drain the water system, drain the hot water heater (remove the anode rod), turn the bypass valves towards each other* and then fill the system with RV antifreeze (or Vodka!) leaving the hot water tank empty but with anode rod in place.

*I'm fairly certain the water follows the tab, so it selects between the tube and the tank on each end, with a 3rd connection that is the water system.

[TraceyAZ]

Thanks Jage!
I do appreciate the help.
Im also on the same page with you on the vodka. Seriously, they say the rv antifreeze is safe but I just can't bring myself to use it. Vodka...well heck come spring time just add orange juice and its screwdriver's for all. lol
Thanks again Jage!
TraceyAZ

[LFFE]

Hello,
This is my first forum post. I am a new SMB owner as of this spring (and loving it). I will be living out of my SMB this winter in the North East and therefore need to winterize it. I drained all the water by draining the holding tank, running the water, and draining the gray water. Does that mean that the water heater is drained? Also it sounds like I should pull the anode rod. However I can not find it based on the picture in my manual. Any suggestions for what I should be looking for? Thanks all for the help.

[llamadave]

Lffe,

Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your SMB! There will be a panel on the outside of your van that you can easily remove by turning a latch at the top center. The anode rod will look like a large nut at the bottom center of the opening. You will need a large socket wrench or lug nut wrench to remove it. This will drain the water and yes, you need to do that if there is not a drain for that inside the van (not likely).

You should also pump RV antifreeze pink liquid into your lines. We can give instructions on that if you need them.

Let us know if you have trouble with this. I will watch tonight for your questions.

David

[edroid]

Hey guys,

Not to hijack the thread, but can you winterize the SMB water system by blowing it out with compressed air? Seems easier than trying to figure out all the places that water could be pooling after draining.

I suppose the Vodka trick might be a good way to go.

Ed

[time2mtbike]

Hey edroid, yes you can blow out the lines too. If you go to your local RV store they should have a little schrader valve that screws onto your city water connection (if you have one on your set up) and will allow you to hook up a air hose to blow out the lines.

Originally Posted by edroid

Hey guys,

Not to hijack the thread, but can you winterize the SMB water system by blowing it out with compressed air? Seems easier than trying to figure out all the places that water could be pooling after draining.

I suppose the Vodka trick might be a good way to go.

Ed

[edroid]

Originally Posted by time2mtbike

Hey edroid, yes you can blow out the lines too. If you go to your local RV store they should have a little schrader valve that screws onto your city water connection (if you have one on your set up) and will allow you to hook up a air hose to blow out the lines.

Thanks for the reply! Since I am based in Idaho, freezing water lines are a concern. Last nights low was 5° F!!!!

I have cancelled a trip down to Death Valley because I didn't like the idea of having to winterize both before I drive down and also before I come back. If the compressed air works, then the job would be easy enough to give it a try, since I have a built in compressor.

Do you know if blowing out the system with compressed air is sufficient to clear all the water lines with no additional draining or antifreeze?

[time2mtbike]

You can blow out the lines, but it will only protect the lines themselves. You will still need to drain the hot water heater by removing the anode rod in a Suburban or drain plug in a Atwood. Also you will need to drain any storage tanks you have (black, grey and fresh water)and the bellows in your water pump.If it gets really cold i.e. 5* I would put something in your drains to cover the water in your P-Traps if you have any. May be a good place to use the Vodka or non toxic antifreeze (the pink stuff). This way will work but I do prefer to put antifreeze throughout the system, minus the hot water tank. Hope this helps you out.

[edroid]

Thanks for your reply! I ordered an adapter to hook the air line to the City water inlet. We'll see where it ends up. . . .

Originally Posted by time2mtbike

You can blow out the lines, but it will only protect the lines themselves. You will still need to drain the hot water heater by removing the anode rod in a Suburban or drain plug in a Atwood. Also you will need to drain any storage tanks you have (black, grey and fresh water)and the bellows in your water pump.If it gets really cold i.e. 5* I would put something in your drains to cover the water in your P-Traps if you have any. May be a good place to use the Vodka or non toxic antifreeze (the pink stuff). This way will work but I do prefer to put antifreeze throughout the system, minus the hot water tank. Hope this helps you out.